RandyG

DNA60 Showing OFF for Temp Control

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Typically when using Temp Control when the set temperature is achieved the display will read 'Temperature Protected'. Somehow the display is now reading 'OFF' when I hit the fire button. I currently have it set for 45W of preheat and 30W of power using SS 316L. The temperature is set for 410F.

In the DNA60 documentation it talks about setting max temperature. But when I try the routine outlined (lock the unit and press both the up and down buttons,) it simply allows me to set the power rather than the temperature.

What can I do to get the device back in temperature control mode?

Edited by RandyG
spelling correction

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Can you plug into escribe and do a printscreen of the current profile, or do you have to do this on the mod?
If you have to do this on the mod, is the temp value still shown as one of the values in small text on the left?

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6 minutes ago, Wayneo said:

Can you plug into escribe and do a printscreen of the current profile, or do you have to do this on the mod?
If you have to do this on the mod, is the temp value still shown as one of the values in small text on the left?

Attached is my current screen settings for the device. It does display the temp value as the primary value, but rather than display the wattage on lefthand side it displays Battery Charge % even though I am using a Temperature-Sensing coil.

1458796660_KurbisBBEscribeScreenSettings.thumb.png.af22982ebe1a78811ef7ad013aa9e7af.png

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Sounds like your mod not sensing that coil as temp controllable. Seeing as it's a BB, apart from checking the coil, you could clean the brass/copper base that the coil touches, clean the nut and the threading on the box. After that it should work as before.

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1 minute ago, Wayneo said:

Sounds like your mod not sensing that coil as temp controllable. Seeing as it's a BB, apart from checking the coil, you could clean the brass/copper base that the coil touches, clean the nut and the threading on the box. After that it should work as before.

What does the DNA60 board do to sense that a coil is temperature sensing? Is it looking for the variation in resistance?

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You can see that rise for yourself with device monitor with temp, cold ohm, and live ohm checked

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I'm aware of that but  this is an original Billet Box with no native USB connection. I have a small dongle created with a USB charge port connected. But I have to open the Billet Box, pull up the board and disconnect the screen in order to attach it. So it is a bit cumbersome to use Escribe in that fashion.

I can tell that the resistance of the coil changes.  If I let the unit cool the coil will read at 0.46 ohms on the display. When I fire the unit it will go as high as 0.54 ohms.

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It would have saved us both typing if you had answered my very first question, but no worries. 

1 hour ago, Wayneo said:

Can you plug into escribe and do a printscreen of the current profile, or do you have to do this on the mod?

 

46 minutes ago, RandyG said:

I can tell that the resistance of the coil changes.  If I let the unit cool the coil will read at 0.46 ohms on the display. When I fire the unit it will go as high as 0.54 ohms.

Sounds like Stainless to me.

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12 minutes ago, Wayneo said:

It would have saved us both typing if you had answered my very first question, but no worries. 

 

Sounds like Stainless to me.

Yes, It is SS 316L. I put in a different RBA based on your comments and it works fine now. So it is definitely not seeing the setup I was using as a temp sensing coil. So now I am in the process of rebuilding the RBA with a different coil. I'm still using SS 316L.

I'll see what happens. Perhaps it was the coil.

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That whole boro area is your positive and negative connection and should always be clean. Glad to hear it's working now with a different RBA. Which RBA setup was giving you issues?

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1 hour ago, Wayneo said:

That whole boro area is your positive and negative connection and should always be clean. Glad to hear it's working now with a different RBA. Which RBA setup was giving you issues?

The original RBA was a blued titanium Haku Xeta.  The RBA that I replace it with was a Wick'd Bridg'd with a similar SS 316L coil.

In The Xeta I rebuilt it with a different size SS 316L coil (3mm instead of 2.5mm). It started fine but then reverted to doing the same thing as before. So I guess this singles out the Xeta. Does this mean the electrical integrity of the atty is suspect?

I can switch back to the Bridg'd and the temperature control works fine. When I return to the Xeta after a few hits it no longer recognizes it as a temp sensing coil.

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2 hours ago, RandyG said:

The original RBA was a blued titanium Haku Xeta.  .......... Does this mean the electrical integrity of the atty is suspect?

Damn, you have thrown me. I just don't know.  

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2 minutes ago, Wayneo said:

Damn, you have thrown me. I just don't know.  

Well you have been very helpful. You allowed me to maintain my sanity during this. So for the rest of the story...

I recently received two Haku Xeta's. Both are anodized titanium. One is blue and the other is gunmetal.

The blue one is the one that I was having trouble with. So I built the gunmetal one. Before doing so, I sanded off the anodizing on the clamps with an emory board, based on your comments about making sure that the connections were clean. I also disassembled the center pin which holds the positive clamp assembly and made sure the threads were clean. I then installed the coil that I had used in my first attempt with the blue Xeta. It is now working just fine with temp control.

I also have a raw titanium version and that one never had a problem. I suspect it was the anodizing on the clamps.

Rather than drain the boro tank and rebuild the blue one I am going to use it in Power mode until I empty the tank then I'll give it the same treatment.

The Xeta is a relatively new atty for the Billet Box boro so this may come up again as it gets more popular. I don't often come across Billet Box users that use temp control so perhaps not. It's a shame because the DNA60 is such a great little chip for temp control.

Thanks again for your help. For now I think this one may be solved.

 

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Whew. Glad you solved it. I also have an OG BB. Right down to those fancy aftermarket painted/anodized screws (threading) holding in the battery connector can cause problems. I only know a few other BB users that even use TC. I build mine (exocet or insider) quite often with Ti01. I have a clone Haku, but never even unpacked it. 

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