aquilonis Posted August 1, 2017 Report Share Posted August 1, 2017 So far as i know, after i used my dna75 and escribe for a while, the battery profile seems quite simple, the profile affect only what you see on screen but not how the device works with the battery. It wont help the device to manage a better power or whatever related to the battery but only the tinny bar on screen so why so many battery profiles online with so many complicated information on it? I made my own csv based on my personal use and it works quite good with any 26650 and 18650 batteries no matter the brand and the rate of the battery. For me, a battery with 4.2v is fully charged and i know i will never go below 3.2v before i change my battery. I generally switch my battery at 3.5v but my csv go from 3.2v=0% to 4.2v=100% charged and i set my cell soft cutoff to 2.8v so my weak battery warning or my battery bar start to blink only when the bar is low, and it sounds pretty normal to me. It's that simple and it might sounds wrong to many dna pros here but hey, why not? I'm sharing my file and you can use them if you want or don't use them if you don't want to. Enjoy! ndca-18650-3.0v-to-4.2v.csv ndca-18650-3.2v-to-4.2v.csv ndca-26650-3.0v-to-4.2v.csv ndca-26650-3.2v-to-4.2v.csv 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gilliatt Posted August 25, 2017 Report Share Posted August 25, 2017 Interesting, thanks, looks clean and efficient, downloaded. I´m testing both 18650 profiles on 3 batteries (dna250) and 1 battery (DNA75) with 4 different types of cells Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seekerom Posted October 10, 2017 Report Share Posted October 10, 2017 Hello! about your csv battery profiles .... there are 2 different profile for 18660 batteries. how do i knw which profile to use? whats the difference? i have this battery: https://www.volcanoecigs.com/efest-18650-high-drain-limn-battery-3000-mah.html Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquilonis Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Hi seekerom, there is not much difference between both profile, one profile will assume your batteries will be empty at 3.0v and full at 4.2v. The other profile will tell you your batteries are empty at 3.2v and full at 4.2v. If you like to change your batteries around 3.2v or higher then the profile 3.2v-to-4.2v should be used. If you like to change your batteries around 3.0v then you should consider the 3.0v-to-4.2v profile. It's only a matter of what you prefer in your all day usage, it does not affect any other things than the battery percentage bar on the screen and when the dna will start to tell you "low battery" or when the battery percentage bar will start blinking. All batteries are the same with my profiles, no matter how much mAh they have they are all compatible, 4.2v is 100% charged and 3.2v/3.0v is 0%. You will need to play with the "cell soft cutoff" in escribe to really tell your dna when to stop to drain your battery. By default if I remember it's around 2.7v so you should be able to drain your batteries down to 3.0v before your dna slow down on vaping. You should probably change your batteries before that to extend their lifetime but it's up to you, you can drain the batteries down to 3.0v with a cell soft cutoff at 2.8v. I tested my profiles on a hCigar VT75 with a 26650 efest 4200mAh, then used a 18650 VTC5A battery in it, and then I also tested my profiles on a DNA Therion 75W using 2x 18650 Parallel batteries VTC6. I could use the same profile no matter what battery I choose, it's universal. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seekerom Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 thanks!!!!! also the mod getts hot after 3 puffs on the upper part where the tank sits any ideas why that can happen? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquilonis Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Good question, I don't know what mod you are using but many factors could cause that. The tank itself getting hot so the mod become hot also, a too low resistance on the coil for the battery you use so if it ask more current (A) than the battery can handle then it may be the source of the battery getting hot. It's hard for me to tell, the mod can become hot sometimes but not very hot otherwise there is something wrong. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seekerom Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 many people are talking about cleaning the threads with alcohol.... have ay idea about which threads people are talking about? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquilonis Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Probably the threads of the tank and on the mod where you screw the tank on the top of the mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seekerom Posted October 11, 2017 Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 I'm using an hcigar 75 nano... thanks for your help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquilonis Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 Your welcome, and on the hcigar nano you could also clean the threads on the bottom of the mod where you insert the battery, on the mod and the battery cover too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aquilonis Posted October 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2017 This is a good mod, I'm surprise it become hot, I suggest you to take a look at a better battery, maybe a Sony VTC5A for a single 18650 battery. I use that in my mechanical tube so I know you can drain good power from those cells with a low resistance without having the cell becoming hot. The Efest isn't bad but I wouldn't use it in a single 18650 mod. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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