I'm in the exact same situation as the OP. Using a multi material crucible style cup with inlaid heater ((3D heating), inlay is throughout the sidewalls & bottom of the crucible). The inlaid heating material is tungsten strip (I'm not sure it's a exact dimensions but that shouldn't matter for tricking the device). Then for the leads, Uses a tungsten high-temp slurry solder joining to nickel leads to the tungsten.
I have seen this "workaround" Mentioned dozens of times across dozens of forums yet I cannot find a single person that actually says what this work around is? I desperately need to find out what this is I have a general idea since I've heard a summary of what it achieves I just am very new to DNA devices, literally just got my first one last week. An LVE Therion 2 DNA250c, Which I purchased specifically to fire these cups since before that I was using the comparably, wildly inaccurate and inconsistent Arctic Fox and even Red Panda on a dozen different devices. Those at least, stayed in TC mode but Let's just say they could be more than 100 degrees off target. So, it's pretty disappointing to say the least to spend almost $200 and see some of the most accurate temperature control in the world, yet not be able to use it on the atomizer I bought the device for simply because the element heats up 2 or so seconds slower than the FW allows.
For reference, the heater can take a mfr recommended maximum of 38 Watts but preferably would like to keep it at 37 since I don't like running things at their ceilings and has a manufacturer recommended TCR value of between 180 and 200. The 180 value was on the prototype model of this same atomizer and the production unit, I have both by the way, recommends a 200 TCR in the official documentation it came with. Since I've tried 38 watts, admittedly even 40 watts for a very short time, it still could not make temp quick enough but it's absolutely meant to be fired using TC they just were primarily designed to be used for Arctic Fox & Other single TCR linear value devices, not multipoint or curve TFR which the DNA uses. I've quickly outgrown. It gets old quick running a bunch of five to 10 year old mods that cost 20 to 50 dollars so they feel cheesy and are horribly overpriced and almost impossible to get these days since they've been discontinued for so long.
TLDR:
I've given the specs and values for the crucible I'm trying to get to stay in temperature control with my DNA 250C is there any possible way you can point me in the direction of finding this material tweak that allows me to stay in TC mode while firing atomizers that don't hit 200F within two seconds? Please and thank you very much in advance
@James Hey, just curious, but has just about all development ended for the color boards? between no service packs in more than a few months and also hearing the CEO of Evolv quoted saying that you're turning your attention to firstly dry cannabis, then I guess expand further into concentrates (Cricket 2? hopefully not we get a less restrictive price) seems Evolv's shifting focus to new ventures. Nothing bad about it, I just hope there are enough people to continue with the boards we know & love, while going after these new projects. I personally don't use my LVE Therion 2 DNA250C for vape juice, it's my portable dab rig. I wanted a cricket so bad but the logistics of its price made it a nonsensical purchase. Especially when I have well. over 1k in 510 threaded pieces and parts. I know most boards are older now, minus a couple. Will the 250C get anymore love you think? I appreciate your time