RicketyPumpkin

I'm sorry but this is getting kind of comical at this point. I have the device in my hand as we speak you don't own it, I see you comment on every post that gets posted here no matter what section it's under you're Generally skeptical and seem to be uncomfortable with being wrong in any situation so if a full charge voltage of 4.15 does not mean its single cell then it must mean you think it's multiple cells in parallel fitting inside of something this small? Otherwise where's the logic in your statement? Why don't you ask Brandon as well? Or you want me to forward you my emails with them too? Dude you gotta dial it back you're a volunteer mod not evolv's police officer.

Or you could just not be skeptical of every person's post in the first place when it's not even relevant to you then I wouldn't have had to post anything else that would have been the quickest. Please do! I appreciate it just make sure you report back to us when you get your answer I also have the emails as well so....

The OE batteries stock full voltage is set to be 4.15 volts and soft cut off at 3.2. That is the original batteries original config from the factory pulled straight from escribe. That should prove that it is indeed a single cell, As well as give you an idea of the voltages that you asked about.

Not trying to be rude at all her,e but you literally stated yourself you don't own the device so why are you demanding that I go out of my way to do that for you? If you are suspecting I am full of crap about anything I've stated you're more than welcome to ask Jacob R yourself. He knows who I am and will confirm whatever you're looking for. This just seems a bit odd and not something I'm into when I'm being questioned for simply trying to get conversation about the device going in a forum devoid of any conversation about it

Being that I haven't gotten the data sheet from Jacob yet, also the fact that mine is still very much taken apart and has only been lightly tested I'm not exactly comfortable releasing the specs or even recommending an upgrade yet, that's why I gave that little disclaimer in the OP about people should probably stick with the OE battery which I immediately was able to find through visual Google searching it's a 970 milliamp hour lipo. The issue comes with me not knowing what the precise minimums are so I would like to avoid any specs or things like that until I'm able to check out that data sheet that I was told I would be given. I can tell you that I personally went as big as I possibly could with output headroom being the main concern for me. There is absolutely zero information about anyone ever performing a battery replacement on a cricket so I'm in entirely uncharted territory here 😅

I would love to see a three cell Try and be crammed into the tiny channel that is C&C milled out for the battery in this device it's physically not possible for a 3 cell to remotely fit in there

Yes I mentioned in my post that I was in direct contact with evolv, I've been emailing with Jacob back and forth and he gave me quite a deal of info on the battery of the cricket it is not 3S and I also have taken my battery completely out of mine so I can visually confirm. He was supposed to have given me the datasheet , but I suppose he got busy so I've got the gist of it and so far everything's working fine.

While I understand there's not a whole ton of us cricket owners out there I do know there are enough of us to at least have a small little part of the forum. Yeah there may not be much to talk about when it comes to this device but there definitely are things to talk about. It's more than a few years old now so I'm sure everyone's batteries are no longer giving out the same length of time between charges that it used to, I've already confirmed battery replacements are indeed something we can do and I am personally in the mix of performing one myself on my own device I have consulted with Evolv About the process and have Gotten some great guidance on what needs to go in there add a minimum to ensure safe reliable usage for years to come. I personally opted to actually go ahead and slightly upgrade the capacity of my replacement instead of going with the exact same cell that's in the cricket right now. Battery technology has come a long way, single cell lipo pouches have increased in capacity while decreased in size making something like an 1100 MAH not just a pipe dream anymore though I don't recommend changing the specs of your cell unless you are well versed in small electronics repair. Let me just remind everyone that the crickets insides are exposed very much conductive billet stainless steel, One wrong sneeze during installation and you could have yourself in a sticky situation. Also, it must remain a single cell as the cricket operates on single cell voltage. I am supposed to be getting the batteries data sheet from An employee I've been talking with so I can't yet divulge what the minimum output must be or any of those other precautionary and safety parameters of the battery so I do not recommend performing one at this moment. Again I am doing mine of my own will and accept the fact that I may very well smoke my crickets board though I'm sure it'll be fine so long as I don't short the battery on the milled insides 😅 So now that I've contributed a post, there are other things to talk about regarding this such as what's everyone found as their sweet spot between wattage, heat up time and temp?

James, the international link for that beta SP66 is broken and downloads the previous SP57 that we've already had access to the US link and OXVA work fine though. I inspected the code and I did get the correct link for the international version of SP66 so I installed it that way but I'm sure the majority of people here don't know how to go about inspecting code elements of websites to find the link themselves. <a href="https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP57_INT_ServicePack.exe" rel="external nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://downloads.evolvapor.com/SetupEScribe2_SP66_INT_ServicePack.exe</a>

@James so I submitted a TS ticket but haven't gotten a response In almost a month. I'm looking for something that's likely extremely simple for you to help me with. If you recall, I'm the person that created a functioning android APK that mirrors 75% of escribe functionality, sans the proprietary and illegal to copy it reverse engineer flashing of firmware (service packs) you had extended an invite to a specific program to me if that rings a bell, if not I only have two tickets on my username and I'm referring to the 250c ticket you graciously helped me with. So I found myself to be the proud new owner of a unbeatable price, sealed & in box cricket. No issues or anything & reports 100% genuine and functions as it should I've fully integrated it into my APK and now can alter cricket parameters and live log albeit with a slow but unavoidable polling rate. I've literally nailed every possible serial query and command up until the cricket. I'm at a loss for finding the commands for heat up time reading+writing as well as triggering a calibration. The heat up adjustment I'm not positive is possible as it falls more under the fw category and is not accessible through device monitor, however calibration is, therefore per your own statement,there must be a serial command to trigger it. Feeling like helping a fellow coding enthusiast out with that calibration query? haha 😅 Also could you confirm if ramp time is a no go for setting via interface?it seems like it should be as simple as changing the wattage level or target temperature. My final question is hardware related.my cricket after Opening, was configured back in 2022! So it's battery was always questionable. I'd rather not push a almost 4 year old lithium, Ive found the same part number battery replacement with exact rating match.the swap seems ridiculously easy, is there any mating implemented where the board will reject any user replaced battery? It'd be great to know beforehand so I don't void warranty if so. You guys never did come out with a batt replacement program or just sell a replacement so while my cricket has under 500 puffs on it, it needs around 4 recharges a day which is highly abnormal.any help on any of these would be greatly appreciated 🙏🏻

Have you ever considered an etsy business making these? I believe you would have quite the customer base, I'm sure mostly us DNA owners,especially those with too many mods to find space for, would love this. Including pod mods, I'm close to 45 devices now so the travel bag would be so handy for me. A couple of them lol. If you're not interested in you making money off this, would you ever consider making a tutorial on how you create these? even a small one for my Therion 2 -250c with power bank tutorial would be awesome. Either way these are so cool man, congratulations on on great execution for the a great idea.

@aMirS would you mind posting the links for these cases? that's easily the coolest accessory I've ever seen for a modern day full size mod. Are those tiny displays actually showing charging a battery at 1a? or are the just V displays? Thanks in advance

If I understand you correctly, you want to restore the firm "click" you had when you originally bought your 250C? What mod is it first off? Also, how deep are you looking to get into this? There is a membrane between the physical buttons you touch & the actual hardware buttons on the 250C, I can't speak to every manufacturer, but for Lost Vape, this is the case. Both the exterior buttons and membrane can be replaced on mine for example, since they both have removable rubber components. If. The boards clickiness is spongy now, you could solder new buttons but you'd have to source them and be confident in your soldering. Those options aside, you're "most complete fix"6 option would be to just spend the $80 USD and replace the entire 250C, board, screen, buttons, everything. If your buttons are starting to feel mushy, I can't imagine that device is very new so I would think the screen and a few other things wouldn't mind being replaced either 😅 Depending on how long you've had the mod, it's likely the board side buttons, as silicone /rubber can stay firm for years and years if taken care of but the board buttons work off the same principle as a membrane, but are less forgiving than the latter due to the material being an alloy and the water resistance built-in. A donor board would be great for you, I have a few and haven't regretted it once.

Wrong post, I hate windows 11 so much.

Sorry buddy, I was having a laugh at your expense, that wasn't very mature of me. I know you know what your doing, I've seen you around these forums,I just hope this guy that can't get as simple as a type c PCB doesn't emulate you. It requires skill to be sketchy and not blow up!