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VapingDad last won the day on December 20 2017

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  1. There was no lock tight on it it was just a loose connection Oni uses identical shit as the paranormal. So any Intel I give for one vape I applied to others. Also fun thing my paranormal was charging overnight on the USB port onboard and now won't fire up so I've had it with this piece of shit it's going back. I've had nothing but issues with lost vape products and they are just shit from my experience. Their product failed their performance review but they look nice but that's it
  2. Same issue with lost vape paranormal 166 but interesting twist push and hold power/fire button and device Powers up but says check coil(no atty) or check batteries let off fire button shuts down
  3. well looking at that quick fix i thought id take a look at the settings and well im sold, because now running 6 wrap stainless 316 24GA twisted with a 0.635 twist is now working perfectly in the sherman RTA and the combo/ijoy RDTA. im now wondering if there is a simular fix for the the oni 167 because that worked perfectly. the 510 deck was a 1/2 turn off therefore no solid connection... who knew that these things are damn near rocket science to fix
  4. coils are fused clapton stainless steel core 24g wrap 30g, 6 wrap on 3mm wrapping tool. rated at 0.17 ohm. i will also look at page 1 as for firing in device monitor it doesnt even detect the coils as temp just watts. update my computer doesnt do screenshots
  5. according to my local vape shop building in temp control its one touchy item to work with. i too am having issues
  6. im having the same issue and its pissing off me and my local vape shop im using the Sherman Tank RTA by Asylum mods. its a great tank but temp control does work ONLY when the coils are dry for some strange ass reason. if anyone can assist with this also as for the screenshot of the device monitor, the device fails to read the actual temp of the device. screen on the dna states "OFF" i get 3-4 drags when its on 410*F so im using it basically at watts till anyone can get a perminate fix. i also have the same issue with a ijoy/combo rdta on an oni 167 ive started to come to the realization that the dna chips are just garbage. sure you can mod the themes and make it look fancy but big whoop if a device thats advertised for temp control and you go to use it in that way but nope good luck hope you like having a device not work for that setting
  7. Thanks for the extra ideas, sorry it took so long to get back to this I recently upgraded my mod to another DNA 250 but I've just been way to busy with work to even think about or having time to continue with the project.
  8. Maybe in 2014 battery changes it's the end of the world, the way your wording what's happening is that Everytime you change batteries you go back a year like a count down.
  9. So your DNA is stating that they are at 7.xx but are they rated for something closer to the 5.xx mark I believe. If this is the case I'd tighten down the coil(s) and the 510 pin. Also check if the spot where you thread in the atty is wet that can and will cause issues. I build my own coils and I have a little difference in ohm reading Coldcoil 0.15 Warmcoil 0.16 Hotcoil 0.17-0.18 It's a minor increase but it's liveable now if jumping from 5.0 - 6.0 then that's a whole ohm going out of whack which could be the atty, coils, mod or all the above I've had that issue with kanthal wire but I rarely get it with stainless.
  10. No problem, also I recommend using escribe for working and tweaking the dna it's easier to change multiple profiles with ease with escribe
  11. These things know the date??? Cool.
  12. Also send them your complete mod profile so they can replicate the issue. Should be in the general tab
  13. Did it work if not connect it to your computer in escribe and memorize the battery stuff or screenshot it then factory reset it. Please do this at last resort because you will definitely loose everything
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