Alex faught

Can I download a windows 7 iso off of the internet and install it via usb drive?

I ended up making a copper slug and measured my resistance to be .005. I set it to .004 and ran with it. While the temp control does work much better now the mod is much more sluggish in power mode. If one wants to see what I am talking about, set the mod resistance to .07 and see just how much of a difference there is in power mode. I just wish the power mode performance stayed the same regardless of the mod resistance setting.

Now That i have the bugs worked out. Any suggestions on how to go about using virtualbox?

I think I am going to try to bear with it. Have a couple of bugs to work out first. From what I have read Linux does not use shared sourcing files like windows. This makes for some quicker speed. Anyways guess I shall check out the virtualbox.

Any suggestions on how to go about it? I am clueless when it comes Linux. I just had a laptop that a friend gave me and it has a Linux os on it. I am accustomed to windows.

I think this would be a nice option as well!

I would love it if I had the option to adjust the temp on the main screen when in temp control mode.

As the topic suggests, I was wondering if anyone had tried anything with escribe on Linux?

I had a major brain fart (hennessey). I would still think that 4 100 ohm resistors in parallel would bring the resistance down to 0 ohms. Just rambling though, still a little tipsy and getting tired lol.

I think the word you were looking for is resistor. Transistors amplify power or functions as a relay depending on how it's used.

This would be series.

Here you go. I put a plug between the base and atty so you don't have to spin the whole setup onto the mod. Screw the atty in, plug it into the rest of the rig, and start the test. https://instagram.com/p/9JsRgnCwWv/?taken-by=dogmods[/QUOTE] Those look like they are wired in parallel. If that is the case it would come out to 4 ohms. One would have to put three end to end to get the desired .25 ohm.

Nice work. I'm glad the teardown went smoothly for you. I'm in the middle of attempting to strip down my RX 200 (black) to switch the board out for the DNA 200. I originally purchased the Lavabox, but had to send the board in due to the board getting stuck when pressing the firing button. I recently purchased the RX200 with the intention on switching out boards. I do like Joyetech's board, but only in wattage mode. I hate the 3 clicks to scroll through the temp settings. I much prefer the DNA 200 for customizing curves. Anyway, upon inspecting. I found that the 4 screws (middle to bottom) allowed me to pop the screen cover off. That's where work has halted. Wismec have glued the board in place ever so slightly. This doesn't appear to be the case for you on your DNA 200 version. I removed 1 gold or brass plated screw from the bottom right of the board. Is there anymore screws holding down the board that you can think of? I also have a duh moment going on. I don't understand how the board is fitted under the firing button, as the enclosure covers the firing button up. I have noticed that Wismec have soldered long positive and negative wires coming from the 510 to reach the pads located at the bottom of there board. I can see a minor alteration being made there. I may need to shorten those wires as the DNA 200's contacts are located at the top of the board for the 510. I'm assuming the 2 screws located at the top of the battery sled and the top and bottom of the mod are holding the sled in place. Is this correct? For anyone looking into doing the switch. Please do NOT follow my steps as I could be completely off the mark. I've not done any prior research before attempting any of the above. The mod cost me a little over £30. I would not recommend doing this if the RX is your only mod. Edit, I thought the positive and negative wires looked a little thin. Thanks for providing those images ChunkyButt200. Now to figure a way around removing the solder from those 510 pads. Those wires are way to short to pull the board down a touch to gain access to those pads. I can see this being a pain the backside to complete. Not to mention, the firing and wattage buttons need sanding down from what I've seen on reddit. [/QUOTE] If it is anything like the dna 200 version There is an extra screw underneath the sled that is exposed when it is moved out of the way.

Ah, I see they have NiFe48 in 26g Is ss430 pretty predictable?

I have looked into the NiFe52 wire, but it is hard to find in thicker sizes.