Jaquith
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Posts posted by Jaquith
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My testing method and settings are correct. The voltage is the Nominal and the cutoff is to spec. The difference, shortage, is due to two things whichever comes first: Discharge instability or Evolv's 3.0V. You only want to use LiFePO4 (9.9V, Nominal 3.3V) for LiFePO4 batteries exclusively, not LiPo's or Lithium ion 18650's (11.1V-10.8, Nominal 3.6V-3.7V) batteries. The Wh variations is due to testing load, Evolv stability requirements and the fact Evolv cuts off at 3.0V and not the batteries rated cutoff .. in essence the Wh are the USABLE Wh to the Evolv's DNA 200 board. Most high Amp draw 18650's are rated for a Nominal 3.6V (some 3.7V), so 3.6V * 3 = 10.8V not 11.1V. You know this by reading the specs. The Battery Analyzer overwrites ANY Wh numbers you enter for the actual Wh before cutoffs (3.0V min) or instability is observed in its testing process. My LG HG2 Profile is so damn good that my jaw dropped and without a 'Low' or any warning and it was able to completely discharge accurately to 0% without any hiccups, drop, dips, warnings http://i.imgur.com/tNAnusqh.jpg Now if you put some lightweight drain or some crazy drain you won't have an accurate or usable Profile.
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You can pulse at a low wattage to clean and initially remove hot spots. I don't use parallel builds much. Most of my builds are limited to 120W and on average 30W to 75W. I'll build a quad once in a blue moon, twisted 30-26 gauge, Clapton's but most are 24 gauge single and dual. I can vape a Kayfun and grab a Velocity Clapton the next vape. That said, a 3 mm ID, 7.5 wrap, parallel, dual, 24 gauge of SS316L should have an approximate resistance of 0.08-0.09 Ohm's and require 170W-180W to power.
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Both my 26 and 24 gauge work though my preference is 24 gauge, I prefer 3 mm coils whenever possible but nothing less than 2.5 mm and at least a 6.5 wrap coil or coils with minimal leads and always spaced coils.
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Every SS build I do, Preheat is off (1,1,0) and version V3 is the most accurate and all the variations between V3 to V4 are warmer with V4 the hottest. I have a V2 that's cooler. I do know this, some Atty's have resistance jumping problems. SS requires rock solid connectivity, small changes produce big variations. LOL I had one Atty that jumped from 0.20 to 1.20 when I noticed it didn't fire, and another with a short that went down to a 0.06 with an absolute horrible taste and a popped coil. So a lousy 510, loose wires, partial shorts, sketchy press fitted connections and settings can all adversely effect performance.
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If it's not a bad Cell (battery) then you have a bad solder IF it's always Cell 1 and the contacts are clean an unobstructed. Arrange an RMA.
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Johan said:
Mr. Jaquith, as I have a good amount of Sweet Spot Ti (.4mm) on the way, was disappointed to read of your bad experience with their .csv. Have you tweaked their curve or created one of your own? This material and .csv was recommended by a fellow who goes by the moniker of PBusardo (a newbie I think lol), and now I'm wondering if he did a dry burn test or is just happy with the practical application (ie: using it). Also I would like to thank you for the SS .csv's, using ver. 3 & 4 with good success, and for your general willingness to share your findings. Perhaps you might consider giving Mr. Busardo some competition on the Youtube circuit ;-)
I told Phil a while back that he needs to revamp all of his Titanium wire tests; Sweet Spot is a Ti-Fe alloy it's not Grade 1 Ti wire. Most of the Mods offering Titanium are regulated for 'pure' Titanium Grade 1 wire and while I don't have concerns about TiFe alloys, I do however feel Sweet Spot needs to make CLEAR what they're selling only works correctly with DNA 200 and or TCR based Mods. The owner of Sweet Spot and I had a long email .. I suggested that he sell his wire but also sell Grade 1 Titanium and make it perfectly clear to the public which is which.
For now I've had extremely good luck with Titan Wires and specifically I love their 24 Gauge (~0.5mm; actual 25 gauge) wire. Pulse it with 10W single or 20W dual to a dark orange to clean, burn off gunk, followed by rinsing under a faucet with a toothbrush .. NO Ti02 production.
Here are the CSV files I use on both the 0.4mm and 0.5mm wires; my preference seems to be my V5.2 http://www.filedropper.com/sweetspottiwire in addition I included Sweet Spot 0.5 V2 CSV. I do NOT recommend Sweet Spot's 0.4mm CSV file.
Just bear in mind, one of the trade offs that comes with adding Fe (Iron) is you get hot legs much, much worst than with Grade 1 .. so keep the legs short or use full wraps with 2-perpendicular leads.
Hot Legs from Sweet Spot:
Recommended coiling in 1/2 wrap Atty's:
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RE HE4's .. no I'm sorry I don't but they're damn near close to 25R's as in they're practically the same performance; statistically negligible 5A, 10, and 20A discharges. See for yourself, the initial voltage drop is about the only difference, and then they follow nearly identical discharge curve http://lygte-info.dk/review/batteries2012/Common18650comparator.php
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Darthtanien said:
Mine says 1.0.32 I just downloaded yesterday and I thought this updated automatic ? Where did you get your version ? Your battery tab has a manufacturer back button and a few other different things than mine does.
Technically it's a Beta but everyone's using it; bookmark this page https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66731-topic/ -
Darthtanien said:
JAquith. What version of Escribe are you using? I have mine updated but it does not look like yours.
2015-10-21 EScribe 1.0.35.2 .. just checked I'm up to date, unless there's an Alpha?! -
bo0st said:
Anyone have a battery profile for green 25r's?
Well I ran a Profile for the (aka my old) Samsung 25R's and the following Battery Profile is from a set + 1, same batch, batteries; the set have been paired for several; months in a Sigeli 150W Mod and the +1 from an old IPV 4 Mod. Ideally I'd much, much, prefer to use a brand new set of 25R's or any batteries. When I came home the test had completed, but I noted 3.30V, 3.35V, and a 3.41V .. that's not a 'good' example however the 3.07V test cutoff is good.
Under a 'Rated' 10A load 8.74 Wh*3 = 26.22 Wh vs 'Observed' 22.86 Wh or 3.36 Wh which is good but a new set probably would have been a tad better.
Battery Profile Samsung 25R http://www.filedropper.com/samsung25rprofile
Here's an overlay comparing the 3 batteries (pretty close over all):
Side-by-Side Wh, Cutoff, Profile:
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PLANETGETLOW said:
Im about to move from TI to SS....getting 28g and 24G in. I would appreciate it if the V4 csv can be uploaded so i can use it
Here's the ensemble of all the UD SS316L Profiles - http://www.filedropper.com/udss316ltcprofiles
As the Version goes up, so do the temperatures; I generally use V3 or V3.5 myself. -
Sorry it took so long, we're moving. Linked below are the Sony VTC5 Battery Profiles for both the 2S 133W and 3S 200W. The noticeable differences are the Sony VTC5 loses about 4 Wh over the LG HG2's and cutoff at 3.1xV whereas the LG HG2 cutoff is around 3.0xV. My Sony VTC5's are not brand new but they're about 2-3 months old and of the VTC5 're-release type' but are indeed authentic. I entered the standard Sony VTC5 settings (Nominal 3.6V*3=10.8V, Capacity 2600 mAh, Cutoff 2.5V) and ran the tests. Per spec the 'Rated' @ 10A is 8.8 Wh*3= 26.4 vs 'Observed' 24.8 Wh or a difference of 1.6 Wh which is actually very good since the DNA 200 doesn't drain to rated cutoff voltage.
Profiles http://www.filedropper.com/sonyvtc5profilesdna200
Here's an overlay comparing the 2 batteries:
Side-by-Side Wh, Cutoff, Profile:
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Well all the people here should be rejoicing after that insane roller-coaster Reuleaux hate thread. Hell I might buy a second Reuleaux DNA 200 Mod. The new board in the Reuleaux RX200 'looks' like the same used in the forthcoming 'cheap' Vapor Flask Mods from Wismec/Joyetech. Well I planned on purchasing the Reuleaux RX200 so we'll see, but it's a damn shame if there's no more Reuleaux DNA 200 Mods. It IMHO breathe some life into the Evolv's DNA 200 venue.
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The only place I've found so far is in Europe http://www.wireandstuff.co.uk/products/430-Grade-Stainless-Steel-Wire---0.5mm--500-Micron---24-AWG--267.html I've found 28 and 20 gauge, but so far the others at least in the USA have huge minimum orders for 24 AWG aka 0.5 mm http://www.unkamensupplies.com/search?q=430+
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I'd set my wattage at 18W-20W and try disabling the Preheat (1,1,0). Then if it works try raising the Preheat to 30W, Punch 5, 0.5 Seconds. Thin gauge wire heats extremely fast.
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I don't want to sound unkind, but so far I've received over a half dozen PM's about you. No your diagram missed the last wire, and anyone with the Mod can monitor all 3 Cells to SEE a difference of voltage under a load for themselves. It's one tinfoil thing after another. Now if you find a confirmed problem then and only then post it.VapingBad said:Tinfoil hat lol after you insisting my correct wiring diagram was wrong and we didn't understand LiPo wiring you left the tread in a huff, but together we put the pieces together to be able to reassure concerned owner's and of course satisfy our own curiosity.
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Then I'd get some 26 gauge. I use Titan Wires and it's been a pleasure to use. Their polished is off by 1 gauge; so 26 = 27, 24 = 25 and 22 = 23. I have yet to find any Atty that I can't get 24 gauge to work.mactavish said:I like 24 gauge better myself, but to get the property build in this base, I had to go with 28. I can't spread the coils any further, they are already far apart.
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mactavish said:
I'm using G1 titanium from Unkaman in these builds. My coils are not wide enough to make the post holes. So even with a turn as you show, I have to go out left and right with bare wire leads to make it to the posts, hope I'm explaining it well.
IF your Titanium 'Grade 1' is doing that then I'd really question it being 'Grade 1' .. ?? So if it's a problem then more coils spaced like a spring, leads bent as described and have the spring coil from on post to the other. Ideally, I prefer 24 Gauge Titan Wires Titanium .. it works flawlessly. -
This thread is getting pretty Tinfoil Hat'ish.
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mactavish said:
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BUILD: Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread. According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts. I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!
I find Sweet Spot (Titanium alloy, it's not pure Ti) you can get red hot leads especially if they're >3 mm in length. Also most of the polished Titanium lost ~1 gauge from being polished.
A 5.5 suggests 6 out and 5 in as a 'U' shape .. try making the coil a pure 6 warp with 90-degree bends (quick and dirty example):
Hot legs from Sweet Spot Titanium (alloy of TiFe; note grade 1-5):
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robmurray77 said:
Tried to charge my wismec with a 1amp USB with LG HB2. They were about 40 to 50 percent. The charge symbol showed but after checking the unit aftet 6 to 7 hrs no change in charge. Any ideas? The unit had the battery test run on it with them in it so setting should be good.
The no change is disturbing, as mentioned not all USB cables are the same but connection, charging rate (Amps), Battery Profile and cell condition all can play a role. Ideally you want to see 0.9X Amps, and >4.X Volt charging.
In the Screen tab of Escribe, note the original settings, and for now I'd recommend: Battery Charge %, USB Voltage, and USB Current plus Charging Brightness of >25%.
Before charging more, connect and run Escribe, attach an Atty; click Device Monitor and in the bottom right click on the 'Puff' and run it for a few seconds as shown below. All 3 Cells 'should' have very close Voltage changes with no apparent big gaps.
Example of all good cells:
Example of a bad Cell, Cell 1:
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Looking at your graph, if you have one cell that's so far off compared to the rest it will trigger the DNA 200 to throttle / cutoff prematurely compared to the remaining 'stable' cells. I would not recommend 'sanding-off' bits of plastic on your Mod. If the battery casing is damaged then either re-wrap or replace the effected cell.
The problem is the cell (battery) if by changing the position of the cell the voltage drop changes from eg. Cell 1 to Cell 2, etc.
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yoseff said:
Hi
It was told to me that VS DNA200 had included QI charging capability.
I Have a wireless charger (Samsung) and when i put VS over it, leds start to blink red, yellow, green, but i do not see anything happening in VS.
Could it be that it is something yet to be enabled in firmware?
Thanks
The Vapor Shark DNA 200 (900 mAh) does not nor will it offer wireless charging. Further, not all 'wireless chargers' are the same, you can easily damage the charger or the device. That doesn't rule out a Vapor Shark V2 with a wireless recharging solution.
The 'Zip' aka 2A charging has no correlation to 'Wireless' the rDNA 40 Mod offered both. Since most wireless charging is for 1S, the DNA 200 is a 3S which would require a completely 'new' receiver and the since these cards were 'add-on's' in the past from Vapor Shark they were 0.5A .. not 1A .. certainly not 2A.
Also recharging a 'phone' that's laying down horizontally is one thing, laying your Mod with an Atty filled with ejuice is quite another .. which is one of the reasons the wireless on the VS Mods was more a gimmick than practical. -
I don't mind doing a Profile for Samsung 25R's but they're not brand new batteries nor are they married from day one. I was going to do a Sony VTC5 Profile because mine are relatively 'new.' So let me know. The 25R's are probably 4-5 months old, but they appear to be working fine. It is easy to do as a DIY, just make a rabbit ears Atty as is shown here and run the Battery Analyzer http://i.imgur.com/gEGDWV1h.jpg
dna 200 firmware and software link
in EScribe, Software and Firmware
Posted
The updated Software requires updated Firmware to operate added features properly; so yes update your Firmware. Everyone had to do the same steps.