Jaquith
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Posts posted by Jaquith
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My preferences for TC wire are: Ni200 Tempered 26 gauge Titanium Grade 1 24 gauge Stainless Steel SS316L 24 gauge The above are the mainstream supported wire types that will work on the majority of Mods on the current Market. However, only a few Mods support SS wire. Not even close and not even for debate the best TC wire is Titanium Grade 1, my specific recommendation is Titan Wires 24 gauge. Titanium can be used on every TC Mod including Nickel only Mods if needed (just use temperatures under 320° F ). Probably the best theoretical TC wire is Platinum 24 gauge, it's a nontoxic, won't oxidize and is a Nobel metal. However, it's off the charts expensive 6" 24 gauge $60 to $70. It has a similar TCR to Titanium.
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What exact wire? (please post link)
What exact TFR CSV file are your loading in Escribe?
By default only Ni200 is installed into the DNA's firmware, and most Titanium will create 'burning / burnt taste' around 250° F ~320° F. You need to select the correct Titanium from - http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp Titanium Grade 1 is listed as 'Titanium 1' in the Wire Builder section.
Here's a good interactive Tutorial - http://www.evolvapor.com/guide/story.html scroll down to the bottom section 'Custom TCR's.' -
lalemandrew said:
One of these work
Both will work fine. 1. (2200 mAh / 1000) * 20C = 44A ; 2. (2200 mAh / 1000) * 45C = 99A both are 3S LiPo's w/balancer's (JST-XH), and 11.1V. -
I believe Chucky meant 30A. Example (2000 mAh / 1000) * 15C = 30A; 25A works fine. The batteries configurations that work are: 2S or 3S LiPo/LiFePO4/IMR lithium (e.g. 18650's) rated for a constant 23A with a Balancer (JST-XH). The board has a 25A fused Input limit. The safest batteries are safe chemistry 18650's and LiFePO4 packs.
Considerations: Frankly my favorite DNA 200 Mod is a simple (2S) dual 18560, you're limited to 133W but I can swap the batteries in <20 seconds. Next is Vapor Shark DNA 200 because it's small and has a 2A charger, and the new Reuleaux DNA 200 with triple 18650's. Even my 2000+ LiPo is a pain, it's big and takes a rather longtime to charge. -
The Crown's coils have no resistance leads and it's giving a lot of people headaches. When I use the RBA and SS wire it's fine. I have several CSV files for SS, the V3.25 overall worked the best but if you're having issues then I'll upload the full set. Here's one of many threads https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/67082-topic/?do=findComment&comment=903793 Good luck and let me know.
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The standard DNA 200 draws 1A @ 5V or less whether it's connected to a 2.5A USB supply. However, there are modded boards like those used in the Vapor Shark DNA 200 that can draw up to 2A @ 5V. The idea is no different than a 40W bulb drawing 40W from a plug capable of a much larger supply of power. The PC's are moving towards USB 3.1 with a backwards compatibility with its 100W supply capacity. So a DNA 200, typical, should not exceed 1A, but as I mentioned there are exceptions.
Charging, a 2A charges 400% (4 times) faster than a 0.5A 'typical PC supply' and 200% (2 times) faster than a 1A supply.
Vapor Shark DNA 200 (2A)
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Thankfully I don't have this problem however I have tasks that I would certainly try which may accomplish nothing or resolve the problem and certainly worth a try. My feeling it's either a corruption or hardware related, these steps should eliminate corruption.
1. Verify you all are running the latest Escribe https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66731-topic/ (today it's 2015-10-21 EScribe 1.0.35.2)
2. If needed install the latest firmware 2015-09-30
3. Try a Hard Reboot
4. Reset: Backup (Save or Save As) the Mods Profile information and then (New Reset to Evolv Standard). Manually update your settings, import Battery and TCR CSV files as needed.
5. Reinstall your Firmware or revert to an prior version of Firmware:
Good Luck! -
I'm referring to the USB output, you can use the Balancer to charge and plenty of chargers do but I never suggested directly from the USB. You can increase voltage through a boost / DC-DC. What I'm referring to particularly is the various USB outputs by type.VapingBad said:I really don't understand what you mean Jacquith' I am trying to help you, the charger mainly works in series not on a cell by cell basis. The charge current across all 3 cells for most of the charge cycle is via the thick wires and the same for each cell, the balance taps are only used to monitor the cell voltages and drain high cells when balancing and never for charging, they do not carry over 40 mA.
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Here's Samsung's own Capacity tests, 0.5A (3S ~28.4 Wh) vs 10A (3S ~26.2 Wh).
Never mind that Samsung allowed the batteries to drain to 2.5V cutoff vs Evlov's 3.0V, nor the cutoff the Evlov's Analyzer imposes as it detects an unstable power delivery.
So you think a cutoff of 3.0V~3.1V vs 2.5V and high or low Load has absolutely no effect on the total battery capacity!?
rask116@hotmail.com<rask1 said:Jaquith , You are nuts. I offered you the simple math. End of story. The math proves what I stated. I don't give one iota what you used.
You went totally off the deep end. Not surprised after reading more of your lunacy rants. .When I came here I just wanted to get an idea of what to use until I could run a test. 9.6 volts turned out to be just that thing that would be safe and allow me to vape my new mod until I could run the test. And our tests prove that to be correct. It's what my numbers, your numbers and 6 other pages of numbers comes out to. What you use, be it something for a tc or not! is irrelevant. The board will adjust what it needs for whatever you put on it. This chip isn't a d a m n flashlight with a simple bulb in it. Stop with that lame analogy dude. This is a complex computer board in our devises . It's programed to do a certain bunch of things utilizing it's power source.
Now!
My batteries , won't generally be the same as yours, even if we got the same ones, the same day, from the manufacturers factory itself. HOWEVER! once the battery Analyzer is run, we still won't be far apart despite what way we may have used to run the test and it can clearly be seen in each of our vtc5 graphs. . The point of the battery analyzer in the escribe software, is to tell the chip the best possible mAh your batteries have and when to shut things down This is done via the chipset using the algorithms that were programed into it by the designer/maker/ manufacturer. What you use to run the test is completely irrelevant. If you use a .4 ohm setup running it at 100w or run it at 1.5 ohms at 15w or what ever! your numbers will be close, within a few hundredths. Only difference is that with the .4 ohm at 100w you better have a way to keep things cooled down. With the 1.5 at 15 w it's going to take long tiem for the test to run. That's all there is to it! But your particular chip is going to do what it does.DO it man! Sit there for a day and run various tests using different settings (ohm and watt) but with the same set of batteries and you too will learn that your batteries are only going to give what they have and each reading will be different but not so far apart from one another to mean anything substantial for the need of the DNA chip.. We run the test, so the chip can best utilize what power your batteries will give to the chip.But we can't get a new dna 200 that uses 18650 batteries and use 11.1v in the escribe software to find out what our 3000, 2900,2600, 2500, mAh batteries equates to in wh for the chip . We can and should use 9.6 volts for that, when a person first gets their mod, so they can at least vape on it without blowing up the dna 200 chip before they can run a test.No wonder you're frustrated. You've not grasped even the most simplistic concept of how things work with this software or the chip itself. Yet you come in here to this thread with your disillusioned idea that you know more than any one else. Here's a reality check for you! Your words have proven that that you don't know much of anything. It's why you're frustrated here. You want to be right, but so many of us in this thread have proven you wrong at every turn. Now go play with your dna 200 and get out of here. -
As in what exactly? The Profiles I've posted for UD SS316L seem to work as long as you disable Preheat. My preferences are V3 and V3.5 which seem to be working. Otherwise, my go to wire is Titan Wires 24g. Just for kicks I was going to Clapton 24g UD with 34g Kanthal, but beyond that I have no other plans for SS316L. The SS430 and Platinum are my next venture expanding my TC trials and tribulations, but wow Platinum is CrAzY expensive $70 for one frigging coil. LOL it looks just like SS but it doesn't oxidize.PLANETGETLOW said:I have 24 gauge, any suggestions
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PLANETGETLOW said:
...This coming from a strictly TI user.
Amen. SS is something to mess around with or at least SS316x .. long-term .. maybe you. Lower gauge with big coils, SS is okay. Just my opinion.
Now I'm looking at SS430 and Pt wire. -
DDolan said:
I did all that it's a vector RDA the resistance never changed when it' worked it was .09 and now it's still .09 the only change Is when it gets hot I can get it to go up to .1 but otherwise it's not changing at all only thing that changed is the performance
There is nearly no room for a Resistance variation. SS is tough enough, the N80 might help a little (increased the TCR) but a sneeze and you can go from no vape to flames.
Try this http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-ss304ni80 NO GUARANTEES so keep your old settings! -
VapingBad said:
I thought you did
"The stock Evolv USB charger on the DNA 200 is 1A and it will indeed supply the full 1A to the balancer"
But I confess I am not sure what you mean by the balancer as it balances by taking current from the high cells. But the the charger can not supply 1 A because the board only get a max 5 W from the USB and the min charge voltage being about 9 V the max current would be about 555 mA if it were 100% efficient voltage conversion.
Imagine what you 'think' I know multiply it times 50 and then maybe more. It's getting rather annoying! 1A * 5V = 5W; Watts = Volts * Amps
You are the only one saying a damn thing about 9V!?
USB Power specs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/USB#Power -
DDolan said:
This has to be like the 4th or 5th time I've written something like this but this BY FAR takes the cake. I got my order of UD SS wire last night and right away I did a build a fused 26ss/36 n80 clapton I designed the tcr for it uploaded it to the profile and ran it. At first it was like a dream come true. I mean this coil preformed PERFECTLY it was the best 10 minutes of Tc I've exierieneced in my life. I was more then happy. I take a shower I come out I go to hit it and it's producing no vapor and I haven't changed a thing. And now no matter what I do it will NOT go back to that same performance. Im at a compete loss here im very angry about this and I would love to hear directly from evolv about some of this because this chip is really starting to disappoint me and im ready to just use both my dna200s as permanent Wattage only devices.
It could just as easily be a Resistance Issue from your Atty. I'd start by re-tightening all of the connections to your coils, check the 510 if it's loose (adjustable 510), look at the Resistance of the coil compared to what it was originally locked to, and clean the 510's of both the Atty and your Mod.
What you're describing, assuming it worked 100% correctly, is a Resistance issue ie IF the Resistance jumps UP the Board thinks it's HOT.
Q - What Atty?? -
Christoffel said:
Hello ..
I`m use my new Reuleaux for one week now , working pervect till today he give me a black screen try new batt. nothing on EScribe don`t recognize my reuleaux ?
anyone a idea for this problem?
Remove all 3 batteries, connect to Escribe and perform a Hard Reboot (see below). IF you cannot connect without batteries then you've probably got a dead DNA 200 board.
IF it reboots without batteries then chances are the 'positive' isn't connecting properly or you put a battery in backwards.
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CanadianCough said:
My Coil is 26g fused clapton (para 26 claptoned with 32 all ni200) 7 wrap no spacing on 2.5mm stud. My coils are going to stay ni200 for a while, i havnet read many good things about other alloys but again i havent done much reading lol. plus ni200 is readily available to me
Im not being stupid by just waiting for replys to this thread, i am constantly looking around for answers and different solutions, everything is this thread ive already tried excluding asking if its my coils which is a possibility but ive built 3 different coils all to no avail with the same outcomes on readings and graph output.
with this much nickle sitting in a coil is that what is affecting it? doesnt really make sense since ive had a regular spaced coil clapton and fused clapton all read the same (wrong)
When you 'mix' metals (Kanthal is an alloy of FeCrAl) and Ni200 you no longer have an accurate (Temperature, Resistance) as with a pure Ni200 coil. I've built Twisted 30/30, 28/28 gauge of Ni200 / Kanthal, and a Clapton of 26 Ni200 with both 30 and 34 gauge Kanthal. They work'ish but require temperature (TCR) adjustment. Adding some Ni200 doesn't make it a magical TC Ni200 coil. What you have is some odd coil with a near flat TCR that I really don't recommend, but here's the info:
Calculated TFR - http://www.filedropper.com/dna200-clapton-steamengine
Flat curve (Fused 2x26 Kanthal, 1x30 Ni200); the FLAT one is your calculated 'curve':
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RunsWithOtter said:
This is off topic from the original post, but does the RX200 work similarly to the DNA200 chip where the rated minimums are just for the full range of watts, or is the chip set to those being the absolute minimums like the snowwolf/etc? .1 kanthal seemed a little high to be a final product.
Its, Joytech, board is a cheap non-programmable (firmware upgrade only) with Ni200, SS (guessing a Chinese equivalent to SS316L) and Titanium TC support .. plus VW mode. I'd also guess a PWM power vs a much smoother DC-DC as with Evolv.
Specs: Resistance range: 0.05-1.0ohm for TC-Ni/TC-Ti/TC-SS mode; 0.1-3.5ohm for VW mode
The eVic has crap board with a huge screen .. this has a small screen. I don't own one, I'm ordering one out of curiosity... -
I agree it looks fine, the fuse. See page 10 for an example of a blown 25A fuse - http://www.evolvapor.com/datasheet/dna200.pdf
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VapingBad said:
The 1 A refers to USB current not the current to the battery, it can not supply 1 A at 9 - 12.6 V to the charge chip from a 1 A 5 V supply,
Who said it did? What?? USB with type D connector has a 5V limit. Evolv limits the voltage to the Cell's capacity not the series voltage; balanced charger... -
CanadianCough said:
...Which has to do with the chip not sensing tc coils and having to go through a series of steps to get it reading and working right.
The problem I am posting about now is when i get past that bug which im hoping is fixed in an update sometime soon. When i get past the bug and i am connected to escribe i have my temp set to 440 with a preheat of 100w 1s 9punch, i then open the device monitor. ...
Okay first off Evolv's DNA 200 doesn't nor ever will 'auto detect' a TC from Non-TC coils. There's no way to do this considering the huge variety of metals and alloys available. It's not a 'Bug.'
Next, other than Ni200 you'll need to upload the correct TCR file(s) for your wire(s) to work properly. Problem, Evolv will only link you to a third-party site eg Steam Engine.
Further, what wire is that and the reason I ask is the Resistance change does not look characteristic to Ni200. Ni200 has a near vertical heating and not this 'mountain climbing' curve like what you've posted. Edit: I read the "Lol yes its ni200" .. so IF it is then add more Power; for testing set it to 200W.
Describe your Coil(s) (gauge, number of coils, wraps, inner diameter, spaced or not, and material)??
Example raw Ni200 coil (using the built-in Ni200 profile): -
What is sounds more like, hopefully, is proper seating. If possible try a different set of batteries. I had no issues with LG HG2's, none with Sony VTC5's ... but I had some issues with my Samsung 25's. Thankfully I have a ton of 25R's; a swapped battery corrected the problem. The problem appeared to originate with the positive connections. When I swap a battery I put pressure against the spring loaded negative so the positive moves freely ie doesn't catch the plastic ring.
Possibility: What I've been the most leery about is creating a dead short removing and installing batteries with that lip moving the protective battery O-ring and exposing the ground. Hopefully in this process you didn't get a split second short. -
Mad Scientist said:
... So to the question: if a DNA 200 draws significantly more than the 500mA and 1A as specified in the respective operating conditions as set forth above, what is the explanation? As a general proposition, operating outside of specification is a malfunction but can more light be shed on what is likely going wrong in each circumstance. Thank you.
The stock Evolv USB charger on the DNA 200 is 1A and it will indeed supply the full 1A to the balancer IF the supplied Voltage and Current is sufficient for 1A charging.
Charging or Testing (Case Analyzer) from a PC are a problem if using USB V1.x~V2.x or if the USB 3.x is non-native plus different power variants. Only the revised high power power variants of USB 2.0 / USB 3.0 Battery Charging Specification (Version 1.2; December 2010) and USB 3.1 (1.5A). So to remedy this problem either requires a: USB 3.x Card, Powered USB HUB, or in some rare instances BIOS/UEFI and or software/driver enabling. In the case of USB 2.x with higher e.g 1.5A you lose data transmission.
Personally, I don't find charging off your PC an 'ideal' solution for many reasons. My preferred solution is USB 3.x either as a native solution or as an add-on IF 1A requirement is important.
Hope that helps. -
robby said:
After two full days use at 20watts, still loads of vaping left in these 3 brand new Samsung 25Rs in the Wismec. So glad I moved from lipos to 18650 batteries. Even with an improved Turnigy nano tech 1300 3s in the Vapecige VTbox I would have been into my third cycle. Only getting a .2V drop on the three batteries in use so 0.063V ish per cell. Am I right in believing that the voltages displayed are read purely as a voltmeter and not dependant on any other settings in the "MOD" tab as I reset the cell capacity to 2500?
The Voltage Drop is not a constant; example you'll see a higher voltage drop when the batteries are above Nominal Voltage (Peak) and then a considerably smaller voltage drop once the battery settles to its Nominal Voltage. The amount of voltage drop AND Wh is dependent upon he size of the Load (1A, 5A ,10A, 20A). What your graph is showing is the sum of the 3S cells and the cells are still above Nominal Voltage (Peak is 4.2V, Nominal is 3.6V, Cutoff 2.5V). -
rask116@hotmail.com<rask1 said:
You sound offended by something...
The what? Frustrated maybe, offended LOL nah. That '9.6V' idea you have is just purely wrong, and is baseless by supposition. IF I or anyone used a 'flashlight bulb' for their Battery Analyzer tests then the only differences between 'Rated' Wh and 'Observed' Wh would be from battery cutoff, BUT when someone is pulling 10A plus from their batteries and getting constant 'Weak Battery' at the 50% Indicator or some other error then how useful is a Profile.
My test coil is a 9A @ 40W which represents most TC scenarios, but it sure doesn't represent someone who is 20A and higher at 150W-200W. My and other Profiles will not be accurate and towards the end of the battery life a 10% or perhaps a 20% may certainly give them a 'Weak Battery' or other error.
The 'Wh' is the USABLE energy from batteries that the Conditions, Limitations, and Stability were calculated in the Battery Analyzer. Above I've stated the Escribe voltage cutoff and other limitations I've observed.
Example, if you used a flashlight bulb 1A @ 10W test may have been >30 Wh (less the 3.0V Evolv vs 2.5V per Spec; shallow voltage drops) and in contrast a 20A plus @ 150W <20 Wh (much larger voltage drops). The 'Best' Battery Profile is using your batteries on your Mod with your typical build. So IF you're a 150W-200W @ 20A scenario and higher then that's what you need to test. Is this making any sense to you? You say say you read what I typed, but that's different than understanding what you're reading.
Vaporshark dna200 problem
in General Discussion
Posted
The 0.4 mm CSV file is way off so don't use it, but the 0.5 mm version 2 posted on their website works fine. However, one major coiling problem is long leads, personally I wouldn't recommend any longer than 3-4 mm. Verify you're using this CSV https://www.dropbox.com/s/i9s5ca32cgxao08/SSV%20Ti-Wire%200.5mm%20Ver.2.csv?dl=0 From http://www.sweetspotvapors.com/category_s/1856.htm