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Droopydroors

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Posts posted by Droopydroors

  1. I wouldn't use efest batteries for multiple reasons.

    1.) They suck and have a horrible sag that only let's you get down to around 40% on the battery before the sag stops the mod from working even at 30w.

    2.) They are too long. When using the Efest 26650 the battery cap should not be tightened to tight. When you do tighten further than snug you will bend the flat top causing it to short. So even though the battery cap is not screwing in the whole way it's better than blowing your hand off from over tightening.  The Ijoy and Brillpower batteries fit much better and the Ijoy is a far superior 26650 that acts much like an 18650 as far as sag. I have run the battery below 25% without issue.

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  2.  

    11 hours ago, mrcrunch08 said:

    This issue doesn't seem to make temp control screwy or anything so may just be cosmetic but I notice every time I put in a new battery the room temp reads extremely high. Normally after a battery change it will show a room temp around 94f and a board temp around 90f. After an hour or so the room temp reading will show the correct 72f but even if I don't take a single vape from it while it is reading 72f and swap batteries the reading will go back to the mid 90's. If I don't swap batteries and charge through usb the temp stays correct or at least close enough to be within a degree or two of the actual temp. I am using an hcigar vt75c which didn't have the case analyzer run or mod resistance put in. I did run all that stuff and get the "correct" values in. My numbers can't be far off since temp control seems to be closer for me then what it is for some others. After putting in those numbers 420f is given me a slightly better experience then 420f did on the older 75. Hopefully it has an easy fix and thankfully it seems to have no impact at all on the vape. I'm curious if this is a common issue. I tried a couple different themes but none of them seemed to have an impact on those readings.

    Curious as to what your results are for both case thermal and resistance could you possible take a snap shot? Thanks.

  3. Hcigar DNA75c

    The room temperature is always above 100F.  Ran case analyzer still too high. Used thermal from phils review still at 100F. Used thermals from phils video that he said he worked with evolv with still 100f.  What's going on? This causes the device to be run in the 500F range to get a decent hit.

  4. This up & down button component only has 3 wires for both buttons. When I solder it on to the DNA60 board do I put the down wire in pin 1, the up wire on pin 6 and run the ground to pin 8 and leave pin 2 and pin 5 open?  Sorry if this is a stupid question but im just playing around and want to make sure. Thanks in advance.

    IMG_20170629_000023122.jpg

    Screenshot_20170629-000148.png

  5. 20151104_183249-1.jpg  These are 3x26 NiFe52 core with Nichrome 80 alien wrap. TCR is .0039 ohm at .04.  I have them set at 200 watt preheat at 450f.  These hit as though the are running regular wattage mode until they start getting dry and then it drops down. Simply perfect. They stick on temp in device manager as well if not better than Ti.
  6. Here is another possibility. Ive noticed if in escribe I have a profile set to 420f. Then when using the device I bump up the degrees to 480, through the mod ,when I switch batteries (hard reset) the temperature goes back to the 420 that was last set in escribe. So is it possible that when the device sleeps and gets woken up it reverts back to the stored temp of 420 even though the screen is showing the temp you bumped up to? Just another guess.

  7. I see the same issue quite often with it. Next time it happens either unplug the battery if possible or do a hard reset in escribe. That seems to fix the issue for me. For some reason I was thinking that maybe if you wake the device when it is doing a refinement it causes this issue. Just a guess. Because of this issue I always lock in my cold resistance so then it will not refine when sleeping. Seems to be constant when I do this.

  8. So this may be hard to believe but I'm having my best expierence with the DNA200 using SS317L. I've been having a hard time getting a good vape with this chip and it my have been some my doing and just being used to using the sx350j and being used to the vape I was getting from it. So I'll start with ni200. I didn't spend much time on this one because I can't stand the taste and it just seems too jumpy. Next I went to titanium. I was using Rio grande 26g wire. On the sx350j with the new Ti setting I was getting a very consistent and stable vape. Unfortunatley I couldn't recreate it on the dna200. I've tried both ti1 and ti2 curves from steam engine. I was just getting a really inconsistent hit. One hit it would be somewhat burnt and then the next just not warm at all. So that made me move onto TMC SS 317l from The Crazy Wire Company. I'm using 24g 10 wrap and it's just working flawlessly! I couldn't be happier. On all these builds I've been using the Smok TFV4 single coil rba deck with the awesome Scottish Roll wicking technique. It's just crazy that the material with the smallest curve is what is working the best imo. Just thought I would share my findings.

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