Tomr1088
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Posts posted by Tomr1088
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Oh wow I had no idea. Never got a response back on my help ticket. Thank you so muchJohn said:Tom your beta unit should have gone out today.
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The resting resistance might have actually been changing but it will assume the resistance is the same based on the percentage set in escribe. It defaults to assuming a resistance fluctuation up to 25 percent is the same coil. And it won't change the resting resistance within that range I believe.
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John is it possible to replace my Hana 510 with one from the beta? Or acquire one at all
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MikeTheVapeDude said:
[QUOTE=John]The entire 510 just screws in, it is an M18-.75 thread.
So Hana Modz could send me the same 510?
And Tom, I pretty much am doing that, but I never tap my 510's.
Also, if I unscrew the board, and remove it, what's the process of doing so and then putting it back in? I'm only going to desolder the wire on the stock 510, so once the board is unscrewed, what's on the other side and what's the process of removing and putting it back in like?[/QUOTE] Hardest part is getting the board off and on without damaging the screen as its glued in. U prob can chalk the screen up as a loss -
MikeTheVapeDude said:
[QUOTE=blueridgedog]It should ground to the metal case as well as the old one.
So I take it this is not a reckless and/or stupid plan? This is actually okay?
I'm probably going to sand the very edges of the LP down so it'll snugly fit down past the edges of the stock 510 cup.
Like I said, if there's anyway to remove the entire 510, I'm all for it.[/QUOTE] Why don't u drill the 510 center and tap that to the fdv 510 thread size. -
Link to this adapter?MikeTheVapeDude said:This 510 is horrible. I threaded in a .5mm thick (Yeah it's thin) 510 to 510 threader that basically just replaces the threads and creates a small .5mm metal space inbetween the pin and the addy, and this pin is tall anyway. Still the same 510 pin as it's just a thread replacer, and now that the pin is a little further from the addy stuff threads in and out MUCH better, I'm leaving this on until I replace the 510 somehow, because you literally can't even tell it's there when something is on the mod. Actually kinda looks better, because it flush fits inside the little cup around the 510 itself, and has the FD style airflow lines. Hm, might just loctite this thing in permanently and leave it be, it works AND looks better with it on. Resistance still reads fine and the pins still make firm, good contact. Stuff just threads on much better and easier, and now it almost looks like I have a 22mm Varitube 510.
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My 510 works fine. It doesn't have a lot of up and down movement range but that's due to the battery size and room available. I measured my 510 pin resistance to the board and it was .06 ohm. And then the 510 ground do the board ground was .036. Which I think is a problemMikeTheVapeDude said:I think the 510 itself is fine the pin in it is just so damned stiff that sometimes stuff sits crooked until I wrench it down which I will NOT do because that can wear the threads.
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Sent you a pm and submitted a help ticket for a trade.John said:I'm not sure where you'd get one other than Hana. That connector is based off of a significantly older version of the design we went to production with, so we aren't making it here.
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Update: re soldered my 510 wire. Tried 14 gauge silicone insulated but it was too thick so I used 16 gauge. I won't be going to 200 watts anyways. But still getting a base reading of .16 ohm on a build that reads .04 on everything else. I notice as soon as I fire it reads .06 tho and creeps up till I get to .12. I have the same settings for both mods. Maybe I need to run the case analyzer because the Hana maybe came with different settings? I'm not sure what's going on but it reads solid no matter what. Just way off.
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Wow yours is way worse than mineKevinl86 said:Well, looks like mine decided to crap out. Was vaping with it happily for a week and everything was going well. Now my two subtanks I have built at 0.15ohms will read at 0.33 and inconsistently let me vape. Hits temp within a half a second and just does not read resistance correctly anymore. I took it apart and everything seems fine the 510 has a solid connection (if you can call it that) and the pin seems to be doing its job fine.. ugh.
EDIT: Opened it back up and slightly tweaked/moved the 510 wire and it seems to be reading ok again. I'm sure it's just a matter of time before the resistance gets messed up again.
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Noticed something scary that was my mistake. Don't ever accidentally set mod resistance to something high. I accidentally set it to .2 ohm instead of .02. Once I uploaded settings and opened atomizer analyzer it constantly kept pulse firing my ni200 build. Due to sampling the coil for resistance readings it was using way more power. Scary lol
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Almost every board even yihi 350j's even though default off do spark when u apply power because they boot when batteries are connected. But then remain off
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I am fitting a dual 18650 and chip into a 1550p+ box from alpine tech. Really awesome quality and perfect size. Only a slight amount bigger than the regular 1550p which provides perfect clearance needed
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Wake-N-Vape said:
[QUOTE=Tomr1088]Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wire
I did not try to pull the whole assembly out when I had the case open since I did not remove the board. But, I do believe that it would allow you to slide out the 510 pin assembly with the circlip removed as long as the wire is flexible enough to slide it out without damaging the wire.[/QUOTE] I am going to be changing the wire and properly soldering it in hopes of fixing my resistance reading problem. I have snap ring pliers so I'll prob do that later today and report back. I may have to actually go buy some de soldering components and a new soldering iron now. Hopefully locally I can get one -
Can u confirm if removing that circlip will allow me to side the 510 pin out for soldering a new wireWake-N-Vape said:Monster, yep, so far my screen seems to be ok... I did not take the board screws out to physically check it out, but I would guess that it is probably ok seeing the positive and negative leads are soldered to the board. Hopefully they started doing that after fixing the screen issues? But, I am definitely on the look out for any weird happenings with the screen.
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Exactly what mine looked like. I'm afraid about messing with it. I put my bullet connectors for battery but I think from moving the board a lot fixing the screen and whatnot it's making my resistance readings go nuts. Prob cause the wire is so stiff to the 510
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lordbyron77 said:
[QUOTE=John]Well, no, not unless you area having problems with the resistance readings shifting or climbing.
Really it is only pictures of devices having problems that are exciting to me. Last I hears Hana has done 450 of them, and as this thread isn't 450 posts long, my hope is that most are working swimmingly.
I can't take pictures because one of the fuor screws is too tight, and I can't unscrew it
[/QUOTE] Yea one of mine was pretty tight. Gave it a quick snap and it cracked loose. But it felt like it broke but didn't. It's cause there long screws and they flex when u try to turn them -
Just messaged you. Mine is now just reading erraticly high and randomly right. But I'm gonna try and redo the 510 with silicone wire. But idk how to take apart the 510.John said:A stuck battery wouldn't make it read too low... bad connections should always be too much resistance. Is there maybe a stray wire from the positive output lead that didn't make it into the center pin's solder cup and is periodically shorting to other things?
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They told me I could. I took apart an xt30 and used those bullet connectors for the power wires.alee132 said:I for sure thought that connector wasn't good enough to handle the amp limit. That's why even though I use the same battery, I changed out the 20gauge wire for 18gauge which may or may not been for sure needed but the connector I changed out for the xt30 connector but with the v200 I don't think there is enough room for doing xt30 so you may have to do bullet connector's or something else. I don't know if doing any of that will void your warranty though.
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John I can confirm that my home built dna200 and my sxmini read my current build at .04 ohm. But my Hana always reads .06. Now can this be sorted with software or mod resistance or am I going to have to re solder the 510 somehow. I will get pics later on
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The problem with the 510 is indeed an not tinned wire. I left mine because I don't wanna ruin the 510 because I don't know how to get another one from Hana. But the wire was not pre tinned well enough. Wish I took pics
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Is everyone forgetting it's also a beta unit from Hana. Their production model likely will be different from what's available now [/QUOTE]laadam said:[QUOTE=Tomr1088][QUOTE=alee132]I also don't get why hana bothered with putting anything on their buttons if they were able to spin. It's the one main reason I wouldn't buy this. I am also waiting on evolv to make the reference case or someone to use it and make it available for bigger battery's. They did this on shapeways and it's great but I want mine to be made of aluminum or some other great metal. Anyways I hate to see all these issues because of hana rushing things and not doing things the right way. As a modder I could tell that was something that had to be addressed just by looking at it within 10 seconds.
Been meaning to ask because I've seen a statement like this on a couple forums: How do you know this is a beta from Hana? Nothing on their site alludes to this. I was privileged enough to get a response once and they avoided this topic like the plague!
[/QUOTE] I asked them what would be different in the production model. They said the only difference will be the faceplate. Which very well could be the buttons and that side of the box. Along with wiring changes. They used these for feedback before fully releasing them. That's why there was only a limited number for sale. -
Is everyone forgetting it's also a beta unit from Hana. Their production model likely will be different from what's available nowalee132 said:I also don't get why hana bothered with putting anything on their buttons if they were able to spin. It's the one main reason I wouldn't buy this. I am also waiting on evolv to make the reference case or someone to use it and make it available for bigger battery's. They did this on shapeways and it's great but I want mine to be made of aluminum or some other great metal. Anyways I hate to see all these issues because of hana rushing things and not doing things the right way. As a modder I could tell that was something that had to be addressed just by looking at it within 10 seconds.
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Don't be so harsh. After all this is a beta testing period. For reasons like this. Of course some people will not buy one because of issues seen during beta. Most of which are not evolv fault. Evolv clearly stated the specs in which to build the unit. And they have been taking care of problems free of charge even ones they don't have too.RallyRace said:I think the blame is also Evolv and not only manufacturer that assembles worse than the Chinese.
It should give guidelines for assembly by Modders ...
Who pays for all this damage? The losers is especially Evolv sees frustrate their technological efforts because from today, given the problems, fewer people will buy a DNA200.
Evolv should call HANA to find an agreement on how to compensate around the world and sold as quickly as possible.
Thank you!
what size hammond box
in Installation and Assembly
Posted
He meant 50 amps