Tomr1088
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Posts posted by Tomr1088
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Anyone see these Hana mod enclosure kits on Hyperion Vapes site. Only 85 bucks with lipo. Chip not included. Apparently these were Hana production units but Hana never made them. They stuck with the pre production design. Weird.
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You should definitely run the case analyzer and battery analyzer on escribe if you haven't already. And also find you mod resistance value. This will help.Jvape78 said:What is the purpose of this input? I have 2 dna mods. The reuleaux and a boxer type dual 18650 that I built myself. My reuleaux hits temp way faster without making nearly the same vapor and overall doesn't hit as hard with the exact same csv file for stainless 316l wire. Using a 24ga dual coil. 10 wrap on 2.4mm for about .210 ohms. In my cthulhu v2 rta . Boxer style performs like a champ so I'm going through trouble shooting mode now to see what is causing the major difference.
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I think the reason why will soon be seen now that so many sharks are having problems with them not charging all the sudden lol
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Yup. I built to .03 and if I had it set to anything over 80 ish watts it would display check atomizer. Or short
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Yes all of this is mostly used I believe so that the baseline resistance for temp control stays accurate despite the case getting warm or while charging.
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i built mine using a mama faceplate but i filed it down to use as an internal mount for the board inside the box. now i see that mama makes a cradle for internal mounting wish it was out when i ordered mine a while back. i hate drilling the holes tho but hopefully when i get my drill press vise i can do it perfectly using end mills for downward cutting.
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Yea hardest part was making te 510 not touch the batteries but also not overhanging the mod. And also I had to highly modify the sled and corners to fit the sled. Now there are smaller options for sleds
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Mine worked ok. I used a mamu cradle to hold the board inside. And my box is the alpine tech cnc 1550p which is 3.5 mm taller and 2.5mm widerUKDTweak said:Thank you for the reply and confirmation, hopefully ill get this baby built tonight and finally get to see how good this chip is
Ill be using a DNA200 mounting kit I bought from Stealthvape, the screws and standoffs should be the correct sixe for the ground pads.
This is my First DNA200 build and after building a DNA40 into the 1550p, I love its form factor and size, so hopefully it works, if not I have a CNC 806024 box from modmaker as a backup which should allow a little more room for the 510. -
I know what you mean that's why I'm getting a hobo customs dna200 as soon as they come out. Gonna get a hybrid stabilized wood version.alee132 said:Is it just me or is screen crooked? If so that would drive me insane. I mean as a modder I could most likely fix something like that myself but also as a modder I wouldn't buy a premade box unless somehow it was just so nice compared to anything I could build or it was just cheaper than building your own but still good.
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I cannot wait to get one of these hobo customs dna200's. Available in 1300mah and 900mah. 1300 mah being about 3.75x2x1 inches. Stab wood 350, stab wood hybrids 390, aluminum 200. And made with perfect quality and wiring.
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Also should ass it's about the same size as the esquare Dna 40 but a little taller. For 1300mah capacity and also stated as a quality fullymax battery used it seems like the way too go as far as China dna200 mods go. Battery capacity and size. And looks imo. I think it takes the cake.
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Just saw this. Although after receiving their esquare Dna 40 I returned it for poor wiring and cheap button crunchiness and overal feel. For the price it looks not bad for the dna200. Has removable 1300 mah battery and pretty small. And for 170 that's not a bad price. What are everyone's thoughts. http://www.vape95.com/products/efusion-dna-200-lost-vape
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With mine it wasn't the positive connection even tho the solder job was junk. The 510 doesn't ground to the case. They used glue or prob didn't remove anodizing when installing the 510. My resistance was all over the place and if I jumped a wire from the 510 base squished under the atty to the inside of the case everything became normal. Try it.blueridgedog said:The increase in resistance (even on multiple atomizers) would lead me to think that the 510 has a resistance issue (poor solder join or poor outer contact with the case/ground). If you put a large solid wire in the atomizer post mounts and run "check atomizer" you will get an idea of the resistance it has. Do that and wiggle the 510 wire and see if it moves around.
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It's the 510 not making connection to the case. Same thing with mine. Would read .3 higher than normal lolKevinl86 said:Personally, I'll be selling mine and snatching a Vaporshark ASAP. I've opened it up and remedied most of the issues the original batch had but my atomizers still read 0.3-0.4 higher than my other mods so something is off.
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laadam said:
[QUOTE=Tomr1088]One of the guys on the ecigarette forum is making a machined version of the reference case but a tiny bit bigger for a 1300mah lipo. Should be able to be ordered through a co-op soon
I know I'm getting lazy now, but... Link?[/QUOTE] https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/mike-n-tibs-dna-mods.542055/ -
Yes. You can use whatever tcr you desire. The escribe program lets you set each profile with its own temp tcr curve for any type of wire or hybrid wire. Steam engine even has a calculator now to get the values needed for the Dna chips and it does a lot more than just this for adjustability
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I think minimum is 16 gauge. 14 is suggested no?scoopy said:Just remember you need at least 14 gauge from the "out" to the 510 and the ground out to 510 unless your grounding it to the case with board screws....you can leave the stock buttons on and still use a different fire switch....just solder the wires to the thru hole points on the side of the board
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One of the guys on the ecigarette forum is making a machined version of the reference case but a tiny bit bigger for a 1300mah lipo. Should be able to be ordered through a co-op soon
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Do you have .net framework installed. For some reason I think it's required
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battery life for me is half a day but i charge it whenever im not using it so its not bad. i prefer the size being small than battery life. the the 510 doesnt have much travel due to the design and if the atty has a longer 510 pin it wont screw down flush. maybe you should of waited for the production model coming soon.
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Arbegust said:
I know this may not seem relevant to this string, but does anyone know if the issue involving the 510 connector to remain depressed has been addressed with the Hana? I have also heard the atomizers don't fit flush the unit. Expecting mine tomorrow. Appreciate any feedback!
the issue with the 510 remaining depressed im not sure on and mine never did that. but yea alot of atties with longer 510 pins wont be flush due to the space inside the enclosure and the 510 design. the 510 does not have much travel. and if you force it the battery will have the 510 pin pressing into it too hard -
Same mistake I made. 2 and three are bridged and go to battery positive. Pin one goes to the side where both batteries connectRyry said:is
this how its supposed to go? -
Same problem I had when I bridged pins 1 and 2 instead of 2 and 3. Only read 4.2 volts and would only turn on when I held the fire button or plugged it in. Prob an issue with balance connector wiring
this how its supposed to go?
"Hana mod" Dan 200 kits from Hyperion vape
in Installation and Assembly
Posted
Also another note Hana mods website is down as well. Hmm