[Can't get SS working properly]

Brings your ohms up I think that at .20 your below the Low TCR of the wire. Ideally if you could run a nice chunky clapton at .60 or so you would be golden, but at least try and come up to around .40 or .50. SS does not behave like ni200 does and the board cannot deal with the wire at that low of a range.

I am not a SS expert but someone really smart told me this one day and its worked for me flawlessly.

And I use UD 316L 28g

[Let's see your 200's!]

vereybowring said:

2 days of operation but less of usage because of charging.

Picked it up, hit the fire button resulted in a soft popping noise and it went dead.
Opening up the box there was that faint ozone smell of blown circuit.

Fuse still seems fine as is the lipo pack and I can't see any visible damage to the board components.
Doesn't connect/power up on USB either with or without battery still attached.  Escribe also doesn't see it so it's basically completely dead.  I can join the throng of folks with a dead DNA200.

Waiting to hear from evolv about RMA.

Mine is landing there tomorrow hopefully the turn around is not too bad.

[Let's see your 200's!]

vereybowring said:

2 days, blown board.

Massive anger and disappointment.

What happened to yours? One of mine died it was the Hana. Board just went dead would not power up. I checked all the connections and verified that it was getting power, changed the lipo out, was getting power on both sides of the fuse but still nothing.

They did make the return process pretty simple. Sent a RMA form and said it would be repaired or replaced which makes me feel ok about it all. I am just glad I had another on hand to play with or I may have been a little pissed. I chose to pull the board out of my Hana myself just to save time they would have done it for me but that takes some of the fun outa it.

[Is Hana out of business?]

Tattoo75 said:

Been trying to get ahold of um for 3 months many Facebook messages, emails with no response. My v4 DNA 40 battery latch broke the first week I had it .lol

I emailed them here hanamodz1@gmail.com in the subject line of the email I put "V4 broken part" explained to them what was wrong and included a picture so they could see what was wrong.



If you try that and cannot get a answer from them. I have two extra of those parts, if yours broke where mine did I would send you one of mine. You can install the part pretty easily as it has screws that hold the whole latch together.

I think maybe they are just not answering on Facebook anymore.

edit: I have three of those parts here they sent me. That part of the latch is plastic and if you over tighten the screws they split.

[Let's see your 200's!]

mossmoon said:

Seen some awesome mods here and couldn't help starting my own, so here's the box. Felt kinda weird not doing one myself (no I didn't do the box, I ain't that artistic and I don't own a cnc, pretty much just laid out what I wanted). Looks like a Lippo 1300 is barely gonna fit...

Wow that is bad ass!

[SS316L - Final thread - settings, information, sujestions.]

stylemessiah said:

I cant fathom how people are still complaining of problems with 316L SS on the DNA200

Ive been using it for months, no drama

All my coils are built thusly:

Single coil
7/8 wraps of 26g 316L for around 0.6
Spaced

I think ive said it here, and probably on every forum where people bang on about issues with 316L SS, build your coils knowing the caveats of the wire - low TCR, and stop blaming the DNA200 for the limitations of the wire. Build for above 0.5, the device has a far better chance to cope with the wire if you give it enough TCR to work with. Plenty of people who have followed this advice in my posts will tell you they had far better experiences.

People do have luck building lower, probably using good quality wire. But if youre using cheap fasttech or other generic who-knows-what-it-actually-is-even-if-its-labelled-316, and youre whining, then you need to get better quality wire, and stop whining. Im not a cloud chaser either, i vape to not smoke...im weird like that.

All my coils work fine with the default 316 profile...

I do not use Preheat - i approach this thusly "why would i want to heat my wire/juice to a setting i wouldnt vape at?". I can wait a half second for the wire to heat up, and up to the temp i vape at.
Preheating a wire beyond the temp you intend to vape at and not getting accurate results...well i wouldnt be surprised...again, learn about the caveats of the wire...preheating it is just going to mean youre forcing the mod to make calculations on a wire with very low TCR, at inflated initial TCR values due to preheating....not the mods fault, its yours for not understanding how it works, or recognising the limitations of the wire <- a lot of the problem is people not understanding the fricking limitations of the wire.

I have my watts set at 40

I vape at 180-200c

Never lock ohms, my atties (2 x Lemo 2's) are rock stable...another area people need to consider, how stable are your atties. Mine do not drift.

I use the same atties on my other mod - a TreeBox, and they work just as well on that as the DNA200, with the same read ohms, and the same temp settings. I can go from the TreeBox to the DNA200 and the experience is identical....so its nothing to do with the DNA and the whiners assertion that the DNA200 is flawed with 316 L SS....build a decent ohmage spaced coil with decent wire....

If youre having that much trouble with 316L SS, the answer is simple, move to 430 SS, it has a higher TCR, so even with crap quality wire, you have a better chance of success.

Ive been waiting for 430 SS to be available here, to make things even more accurate, but im not in any rush 316L SS works just fine, with a coil built to the limitations of the wire.

Ive been a tc only vaper for about 8 months, and using 316L SS for about 6 months of that

I never have heard about building .50 and up. But that makes really good sense now and it is where I am getting my best results. I have been vaping my Squape like crazy with a .63 ohm build and its just great.

[SS316L - Final thread - settings, information, sujestions.]

Mdelaere said:

I'll be following this, I seem to be having issues with SS316L (only wire I have) as well. I think I might just buy some UD wire next time. My wire did come from a vape shop, but no idea what brand of wire it is.

The vape feels better on my cuboid, but that's probably because the cuboid SS 316 setting is not that accurate. I feel the DNA75/200 should be better once I get it set up correctly.

I use UD 28g 316L and it has performed great with the Dna200. I will say that the wire has been sitting for a year as I bought it to use on a IPV D2 and I did not care for the results at all. The flavor was really muted and I went back to kanthal and power mode. For some reason with the Dna's the vape I get is just as good as kanthal. I can only guess its the way that the board handles the wire in TC differently than the Yihi does. I think I got the wire from Fasttech but I am sure its available in the US now. Its the stuff that is on the lime green spool.

[DNA 60]

txmonkey214 said:

Thanks. But, I would rather pay the $10 for a 1 amp charger upgrade. I was planning to switch it out with a DNA 40D chip. This is a much better option. Brandon, Please let me know when and where to pay!

I agree, the evov 1amp chargers work well and you need the charger for escribe I did not see that at first. Looking at the specs it will be a really nice board and 60w is all I need most of the time. I love my Dna200's but having a tiny device sometimes is more important.

[DNA 60]

txmonkey214 said:

I see that the charging port is separate. Would this fit in a Hana Modz V3 DNA 40 chassis? I will just file down the screen hole, if it requires the larger screen.

Yes would fit just fine. And you could use your existing charger.

[DNA 60]

I have a Hana V4D that would be a perfect candidate for a 60w board

[SS316L - Final thread - settings, information, sujestions.]

spook said:

i thought locking the ohms in temp mode in a dna200  is a bad idea.   isnt it supposed to have that temp learning feature.   thats what it says in the manual.

I lock my ohm's I seem to get a more consistent vape that way and can run at higher temps. It does work ok with it unlocked but I can feel the change in power allot. I guess maybe I should give it a another chance and see how it is. Ive never heard that about the Dna200 and just thought it was just like the Dna40 needing to be locked all the time.

[SS316L - Final thread - settings, information, sujestions.]

Danno said:

I was struggling with ss 316L for a bit. I have a panzer dna 200. My issue was a weak vape after device rests. What i have figured out to work perfectly.on my aromamizer is : Download djlsb vapes ecig profile Contact coils prepped at low wattage. Get it to glow just enough. Wick and wet. Don't use too much cotton. Let it sit a minute to normalize temps. Get your device ready and connect with escribe. Go to your ss316 profile. Detect you cold reststance. Lock your ohms. Check temperature dominant. I set my temp tp 460-470. Watts to 65. Preheat power to 1w. Yes one watt. Upload settings. Back into the profile and adjust/override the atomizer resistance. Add 0.002 ohms at a time. Adjust, upload, and then test. Rinse and repeat. 4 to 6 attempts should be enough to narrow it down. Thats it for settings. If i have issues after the prep process above I check my coil connections. After about 3 tanks I change the wick when i clean the coils. About 3-5 coil cleanings and its time to replace the coils.

What does the temperature dominant feature do? I have seen it but have left it unchecked. I did notice if I change my Hana back to factory it has them checked.

[Is Hana out of business?]

nystyletaco said:

No updates on their FB page for quite awhile, no response from their service e-mail address.

I have one of their DNA 200 models and the screen has pretty much stopped working (usually black, sometime glitches a bit and shows some info before turning off again).  I'm suspecting its the screen cable getting pinched but I don't trust my (de)soldering skills to try and fix this damn thing.  The mod still works fine, just no screen.

Am I SOL here unless I buy a soldering kit and get to work?

I just dealt with them on a issue on a Dna40. Latch on the battery door cracked and they shipped one out right away. From the first email to when I had a tracking number was 3 days I think and the part will be here tomorrow.

In the subject line of a email be direct about the problem and they should read it and get back with you. I have noticed if I ever ask about stock on devices or anything general they do not answer. If I say its a broken part they are pretty prompt in reply.

[SS316L - Final thread - settings, information, sujestions.]

black lace said:

I think single coiling probly is the best way with using the stuff, i will definatly have a bash using your recomendations, for the amount of stainless ive got here gathering dust, so for the sake of using it up... ive found twin coiling ss a nightmare.. good quality flavoursome juice has allways over ridden whatever material ive used, and have allways found Nfie30 very easy to work with, both building and tuning in.. no disrespect to the op i can appreciate what hes trying to do, but saying he goes back to kanthal every time, its no real biggie not getting to gripps with tc, i doubt that his kanthal builds are far out - performance wise, compared to tc builds, i know mine arnt..

I have almost 100% gone back to single coil builds even with kanthal. Its so much easier and with the power we have available these days I feel no need to build dual coils anymore. 5 years ago dual coils were necessary to acheive the performance we were after. Vape gear was low powered, low tech and hard to use.

Its pretty nice to build a large diameter single coil and be able to control every aspect about it. Post back your findings maybe you will find something that I have not.

I have noticed ive been using a wide range of temps with my drippers. Depending upon my mood anywhere from 450 to 500. Its pretty easy to change the way the Dna lets you change it from the main screen.

[Eeprom error]

ntd6245 said:

If u haven't found out yet it looks like hana is going out of business. ..

Yah I am aware of it. I have bought 3 mods from them in the last 2 months knowing this. For a US modder they have the best enclosures on the market IMO. I also can work on my own gear and build mods from time to time so a warranty was never part of the equation more of getting what I wanted before they close. I did just deal with them in the last two days about a door latch on my V4 Dna40. A small crack appeared so I msg them about it. The mod is about a year old and far out of warranty but they put two latches in the mail for me today free of charge. 

Its a shame that China and the FDA are forcing them out of business. They are the OG of box mods and always will be.

[Problem with Reuleaux DNA200 2weeks old]

wbward said:

UPDATE ********

Two weeks later and still no resolution ... the store I bought it from still has it. I really like the store employees and find them very knowledgeable and helpful but they keep telling me they are "waiting" to hear back from their distributor. I checked the Wismec website and it seems they suggest talking to your "local distributor". I am a patient person and don't like to complain but I am at a loss here. None of the other mods I have do Temp Control well and I just can't justify spending the money to buy another DNA200 device. It is very frustrating to have finally found a vape mod that seems to meet my needs only to have it go belly up so quickly.

I know its not always easy to be aggressive in these kinds of situations but I would push them to replace it or refund your money since it is was within their warranty period. 2 weeks is far too long for an answer IMO.

[Let's see your 200's!]

djvanlandingham said:

 Glacier 1300 lipo It was a tight fit also and I had to screw the lid shut.

http://www.buddyrc.com/glacier-45c-1300mah-3s-11-1v-lipo-battery.html

I had bought the Turnigy nano tech 1300mah and it was about a mm to thick with the outer wrapper taken off even. I used the plastic safety wrap from the Turnigy for my HG2's as I did not have any shrink wrap large enough for two cells then tapped that on. I am really happy with the battery life I am getting from the LG's. I get a full day out of it if I keep it under 50w.

[newby questions]

scottkoblitz said:

The fewer screws the better as a matter of fact.

I have used mostly Varitube 510's and have never had any issues. Their newest model is extremely easy to set up and can be soldered in place without disassemble. Under normal soldering heat there is no damage to the insulator which makes it all fast and easy to do.

http://www.varitube.com/VT-510-V2-Connector--Self-adjusting-Center-Pin_p_364.html

[SS316L - Final thread - settings, information, sujestions.]

I am having a great experience with 316L since I got my first Dna200. I tried it before with other devices and just hated it. Here are the set ups I am using right now.

Dripper

28g 316L single coil, twisted, 3mm, 6 wraps spaced @ .58ohms

Pre heat set at 60w

Power set at 40w

Temp set at 480 degrees.

Using the stock curve that was available on Escribe for SS

Tank

28g 316L dual coil, single strand, 2.5mm, 5 wraps spaced @ .31ohms

Pre heat set at 50w

Power set at 30w

Temp set at 420 degrees

Using the stock curve that was on the board.

The Dna200 is the best TC vaping I have ever had and I actually use it. I do have 4 Dna40's and I just love em and will never part with them but they stay in power mode all the time.

If there is anything I missed let me know and ill do my best to answer.

Here is a pic of what I am using in a dripper. 28g 316L, twisted, spaced, 5 wrap @ .58 ohms with above settings.

[Let's see your 200's!]

djvanlandingham said:

Width about the same maybe just a hair thicker. The 1550p+ shorter deeper, Silo taller thinner. I'm leaning to the Silo being my fav but less room to use the XT60 plug on the battery because the 1550 is a little deeper I could use the XT60 plug and run it between the DNA board and the battery. And I had to file a little off the lid lip on the 1550 to clear the 510 nut. I'm sure somebody could get the battery to fit in the Silo with the XT60 plug but I was tired of fiddling with it. LOL!
 

Thanks for the pics. I had trouble with my choice of lipo's for my 1550P. It was too thick and the door would not close all the way and wanting to get it up and running I made a pack with two LG HG2's and soldered them direct to the board for usb only charging. I had to desolder the JST plug and re-wire it to charge two cells. What battery is that your using in your 1550P?

[Let's see your 200's!]

djvanlandingham said:

Just built my second DNA 200 in the last 2 days again with ModCrate parts. ModCrate green Silo 1300 box with ModCrate HCP 510, Glacier 1300 lipo. Hats off to ModCrate for there service, shipping and prices. This whole building a DNA box mod is addicting! 


   

How is the Silo's width compared to the 1550P? I see its a little taller and probably has a little more depth.

[Let's see your 200's!]

bigfatguy said:

Just wanted to share one of my dna200 mods. I seen on Facebook a guy who built one kinda like this and I had to make my own. Alpinetech A+ brass buttons and a brass cap for a FDV v4 powered by a 12v power supply.

Thats pretty cool

[Eeprom error]

I have a Hana V200 thats a few months old. I had problems connecting to the device the first two times and now am unable too. All I get is unable to read eeprom. I have another board here that I can connect to with no problems. The Hana board works in PWR mode and in Ni200 mode just fine. I was unsuccessful in uploading a SS and TI profile. It did take some custom profiles but will not work with SS in TC. It shows "OFF" when trying to fire SS in TC mode and fires it in normal power mode as far as I can tell.

Was wondering if its ok for me to remove the board myself and send it in to get repaired or replaced. I do not really want to send it too Hana if I can avoid that.

[Let's see your 200's!]

djvanlandingham said:

My very first DNA 200 and I love it! I'll never go back!
Orange Modcrate 1550p v2 box (love this box)
45c 1300 Glacier lipo
Fatdaddy's low profile copper 510
With a Zombie theme!
Using a Griffin tank single coil .38 ohm SS 316L at 40-45w. Still playing with settings trying to find my sweet spot. I replaced the board screws with headless screws and had to put 2 screws in the lid because the lipo fit so tight mags would not hold it shut.


Main welcome Welcome secondary   
   

Looks great......I had a 1300mah lipo for mine but it was too thick. I went with two HG2's and its working pretty good. The Dna200 is a seriously nice board and the options is has are fantastic.

[Let's see your 200's!]

So I got two Dna200's this week. The blue one is a Modcrate 1550P+V2 kit that I built, set up as a 133w with two LG HG2's soldered in series and direct to the board for USB only charging. Red one is a Hana V200 which I have wanted since day 1 they released em and just was able to do it.