dl12345

A small o-ring on the 510 helps with this

To add another report about this issue, I had the same problem with my VT75 nano. I disassembled it and all of the screws mounting the board were loose - both ground screw and mount screws. Additionally, the 510 plate and the battery plate threads were still very dirty with machining residue. I cleaned both the plates and receptacle threads with isopropyl alcohol. I'm tempted to wire the ground directly to the 510 base plate to avoid this nasty non-solder connection that FairCold rightly criticized, although that's going to require a little surgery. On a side note, the 510 connector is a poor quality part - the 510 positive is a simple metal plate on a spring (and it's not copper either) housed inside a plastic holder. Unfortunately, the profile of the plastic housing is quite thin and the battery positive is directly underneath the 510 positive, separated by a plastic insulator. As a result, it doesn't support replacing the 510 with a better quality part such as a FDV v4 as the 510 positive wire comes out at right angles to the positive plate and there's no clearance. A possible solution would be to machine a 22mm threaded cylindrical housing on a lathe (with a lip on the top end to bolt on the 510) that will raise the connector and allow clearance, but I don't have access to a lathe.

I agree. The build makes a big difference, particularly the wicking. On many of my attys I need to trim the wick where it flares out at the end. Failure to do this causes it to bunch up and impede the juice flow. Each atty needs the wick trimmed differently. Most of them need a bit trimmed off the top edge of the wick as any folds in the wick where you tuck it down (for example with a Uwell Crown) will impede juice flow. With other attys such as a Billow V2 or 3, stuffing the juice channels or holes to thickly with wick causes it to wick poorly. For me, I vape consistently at 390F (using 0.25 - 0.5 ohm builds) across all three of my mods (Hcigar VT75 nano, Boxer DNA200/133, Releaux DNA200). If I wick poorly, then I need to up the temperature to as much as 450F - usually for me if I need to go much above 410F then it's an indication that I've wicked poorly and I rewick (wick should be snug - not loose and not tight). Pull your build apart and have a look at the wick - if it is not completely saturated with juice your wicking may be at fault. And in TC mode SS316L I up the watts way beyond what you're using - about 55W for a 0.25 ohm build and about 45W for a 0.5 ohm build with a preheat of 75W. This way it gets up to operating temperature much quicker and then the mod throttles back the wattage. At only 15W on a low ohm build like that you probably won't even achieve your target temperature before you release the fire button.

It's definitely safe, but it seems a real shame to own such a high-end mod and not use all it's features. You would have been better off buying a cheaper mod if you don't intend to use escribe...

Nowhere. i asked Joyetech to sell me one. They refused - even after I gave them the option of selling me one or RMA.

Great mod, crap 510. My RX200 also died on me because of this. Every manufacturer seems to skimp on the 510s. I totally don't understand it. I hear you. I'm not the greatest solderer either. However, the right tools make all the difference. The contacts on the PCB are pretty small. You need a BGA rework station, some flux paste and some solder paste. Put a bit of flux paste on the tab, put some solder paste on the tab, put some solder on the bit then apply and you should get a first time, clean solder. My best mod is unquestionably the one I built myself. It's a boxer mod. A Fat Daddy V4 makes all the difference. It's light, has 18650s that I can change, and the form factor is fabulous. If you don't want to build it yourself, you can buy it pre-made. Ok, so it's overpriced. But I guarantee you'll be happy. Just suggest not dropping it, being 3D printed it's likely to break if dropped on a tiled floor. HOWEVER, this is limited to 133W because it only has 2x 18650s. The only mod I am aware of with 3x 18650 is the Reuleaux. Your criteria are too stringent - there really is nothing out there that will satisfy your entire wish list.

This looks like a nice 510. I like the extra pressure part. Every issue I've had with TC vaping is due to inconsistent resistance readings. I'd love a couple of 510s that have decent SS threads and strong springs. And then of course, I'd love the atomizer OEMs to stop with this nonsense spring-adjustable 510 screws. Usually it's a rubbish quality spring mated with a stainless steel screw. I systematically rip out the spring and replace it with a bushing. Just put in a decent copper flat-bottomed pin please.

Fabulous to hear. I've become so jaded from other companies denying warranty claims that I don't even RMA anymore. It's great to hear that Evolv goes in the other direction....

Fabulous to see some experienced advice make such a difference. Great work VapingBad

Warranty exclusions Wear and tear associated with normal useAny modification, abuse, accident, disassembly, misapplication, or unauthorized repairAny improper operation, including any use not in accordance with any product instructionsCracked, broken, or otherwise damaged display (OLED)Any other cause which does not relate to a product defect in materials or workmanshipI'm guessing any mod that you assemble yourself would not be covered (although this doesn't seem to be your case with the Hammond boards). It appears that if you replace the fuse, yes you will void you warranty (unauthorized repair).

Not meaning to be trite here, but why not just buy a BGA rework station, some solder paste and a couple of fuses. It would certainly be easier than dealing with the hassle of RMA'ing the devices. Almost certainly cheaper too....

See #3

While I was still vaping prebuilt coils, I found many were 0.1 ohm over the rated ohms. If you put the atomizer in a different mod or in an ohm reader, does it give a different reading?

I assume this mosfet will require a heatsink?

Annealing, that is to say, heating the wire to around 800 celsius, will reduce the spring in the steel. This is why torching it works. However, with chromium steel at this temperature there is a risk of releasing hexavalent chromium. I would be wary of torching it till it glows red (similarly, I don't dry burn SS coils until they turn red). Suggest just heating the wire a bit with a butane lighter (as opposed to a torch).

VTC has this problem even on the SS316 built in profile, that the atomizer reset doesn't work consistently. I have the base of a Kanger subtank mini with a 0.2 ohm RBA coil in it. When I want to change atomizers, I put in the 0.2 ohm coil, press fire, remove, press fire and then insert my new atomizer. As long as the new coil is higher than 0.3 ohms, it will reset the memory. This is crucial to making the evic work consistently in TC mode. If you're using the vape mesh company SS316L then from my experience, 390 will give a very weak vape although this is more or less the temperature it shows on my evic in the built-in SS316 profile. Try setting your DNA200 to 415 - 430 and see what difference this makes. I also find that you need to up the watts on the DNA200 by comparison to the evic. I MTL, so I like a fairly rapid ramp up in temperature. On my DNA200, I use 25 watts on a 0.7 ohm coil with a 50 watt preheat and a setting of 8 for hard. Lower watts doesn't quite get the temperature to remain at the limit threshold I set. Using the device monitor is quite useful to see how your temperature ramp up and maintenance progresses as you take a hit and whether or not you need to raise or decrease the watts. Also, if you're not already doing so, then I suggest you try a spaced coil and not a micro-coil

My RX200 and eVic mini on custom TCR mode and my DNA200 all vape using the same atomizers at around 415 - 420 Fahrenheit using SS316L coils AND SS304 coils. No burnt taste, no charring of cotton. 390 seems a little on the low side. Joyetech SS316 built in profile dramatically under-reports the temperature. We know that the TCR for SS316L is 88. And so if you set 88 on the custom TCR and it gives a weak vape at temperatures you use on the built in profile, then ergo, the built-in profile is under-reporting the temperature. Despite the claim that it is SS316, the Joyetech built in profile seems much closer to SS304 (try a test - set a custom TCR value of around 105 and you will see that the temperatures you achieve with the evic on this custom TCR mode are roughly the same as the built in SS316 profile). 480 seems on the high side. If you keep having problems then I suggest trying a different SS316L wire. Yours may be something other than SS316. The Vape Mesh Company sells some pretty good wire at cheap price points that vapes like a charm. They take 5 days to deliver to me in Thailand, so to the USA it should be at least as fast.

I have not tried this on a Wismec DNA200 (only on a RX200), but you should be able to replace the 510 connector with a Fat Daddy Vapes V4 low profile 22mm connector. This will require at minimum making a cut-out in the middle part of the top of the battery sled to prevent the 510 impinging against the back of the sled. Have a look at the post I linked earlier in this thread. This would be your only option since the Wismec 510 is proprietary and they won't send you one either (I tried). According to one report I've seen, the 510 can be replaced on the RX200 without needing to dremel out the internal mount. However, when I did this with a DNA200 board in place I needed to dremel out the internal mount and use 22m washers to mount the 510 connector proud of the mount in order for the 510 pin not to contact against the board.

I have a RX200 and a eVic mini as well as a DNA200. The problem you're experiencing isn't the DNA200 mods. It's the evic whose built in SS316 profile is grossly overpowered. It under-reads the temperature significantly. I'm willing to bet that if you use a custom TCR for SS316 of 88 or 90 on your evic and then adjust the temperature upwards until your vape is comfortable, you will find that the DNA200 mods will give more or less the same experience at the same temperature. If they don't then you have suspect SS316 wire. I've found that some vendors are selling stuff tagged as SS316L which does not exhibit the expected performance. In fact, the Joyetech mods are so inaccurate in the built-in SS316 mode that I don't even use it anymore. I only use the custom TCR mode. Numerous other people have confirmed the same thing. Your DNA mods are functioning correctly. It's the evic that isn't.

No, it cannot. It is an integral unit that cannot be disassembled.

I did the same as you, although I also replaced the 510 connector because mine was shot. I had the same issue with the battery sled being difficult to fit because of the wires. Ultimately I abandoned the project because I had to make substantial cutouts in the battery sled (for both the 510 and for the DNA 200 wiring) that, in my opinion, made the mod somewhat unsafe. You can remove the top plastic covering on the battery connectors to prevent them melting when you solder them.... I made a write-up with some photos