black lace
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Posts posted by black lace
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Thanks viruk, i will have a bash, i have a mutation x that will carry thoes coils. shame we dont have a coil building section data base on the forum, it is a main part of it after all..
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Let us know if you get to gripps with it, its not my thing, i found it very tempermental and used both the 316 and i think 430, but was twin coiling, i swear by what i use, not just because ive got miles of it, i have miles of stainless aswell, i think my problem was, i would build a ss coil load a csv file and after first use and cool down it would have changed its charictaristics and would need a further csv file, being so low in ohms, fine tuning would be critical because its initial heat up would fly through the roof,, i think one tip is to turn your pre-heat boost off or down to ''nothingness'' lol, if vb can say ''simplification'' i"m saying ''nothingness"" lamo.. all the best..
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Your reffering to your escribe program on computer i should hope or your screen may be swamped with juice,, It sounds like your escribe program is corrupted and i would overwrite it with a fresh download. Moor a softwear issue than report a bug..
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I know exactly what you mean, i keep well within parameters with nife30, 28awg ,7 wraps on a 2.5mm mandrel usualy works out at .21ohms rarther than about .10 ohms if using ni200, why change after getting a decent vape sussed, jaun gee still didnt say what metal coil he was using but i would guess ni200 in factory built coils,,, as much as i love my wooden mech mod and the brass monkey dripper,, being restricted with hair fine 36awg kenthal twin coil 5 wraps around a 2mm mandrell to get instant heat and a fast cool down is extreamly fragile and fiddly to fit. No wonder they where so short lived.
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Sos to undermine vb,,lol,, you can also have a look and a fiddle with the steam engin program,, i have to do it through the firefox browser if i wish to save any csv files, because my dated internet explorer wont read them, but keeping things simple to start with and single strand coiling may save time and materials. Lamo """"invitably in laymans terms i think its an invaluble essential"":" lamo
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Strip the sled out fit a lipo and unlesh some power, easy job,,
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Yep i would have bet money on it being a defalt three cell as default and had no idear it was a two cell mod. so what is your maximum wattage on that then??
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Oh well you got it now, lol, How long where you using it befor you realised it had re set, i wouldnt have thought that fine case res and battery would have stoped you from getting a draw off it..
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does escribe not read and save your settings? To a seperate file in documents, so even if you delete escribe you will still have them to retrieve later. ..Clairenix said:Thinkvape has already replied to me, Here's the Ecig file that I got and I think everything's a-okay now!
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Like i said three months ago, i had problems with the, i think the v3's, not enough pin travel and would push the brass cap end off, not brazed on just push fit, absolute f**ing rubbish, his drip tipps look cool but are rubbish on the inners if your using a dripper.. i also use vatitube and a generic 510, wich is a coppie of the veritube and they knock the fdv products into a cocked hat, if your going to pay for a name stick with evolv,
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Sorry to input on answere allready given,, a good quality authentic mobile phone charger will do the bizz..
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Op, you could take it to a vape shop and see if they have a battery knocking about just to see if you get any changes in responce, other than that, a computer and the escribe program would be adventageouse, did you get the device secondhand, because a user can program it to say anything, not that they would have reason to,,, check battery sounds pretty clear to me..
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Each to their own mate we all build to our individual requirements. In the past ive put blobs of solder on contact points of 18650 batteries to get then to sit with a better contact in a sled, but have never had space for a sled in a temp controlled box, so have soldered leads direct onto the batterys. If i was going to do a two's build i think i would use all that space up with a twos lipo.
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you havnt put a great deal of info in the question,
can you get it up on escribe and read off the battery cell values from device monitor, or take a snapshot and post it up. -
Thats the main part of it, at the top of ""early firmware"" padlocked topic in this category section of the forum, there are also some other add on updates to it, as you read down on that thread.. sos cant post a link while on mobile.
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I think youve got confused a bit, the on board charger is one amp unless your using ""i think its the vapourshark at two amp" i have followed your link albeit on a mobile with a small screen, the charger refered to is a dual or twin with combined input of 4amp, so it puts out from two ports times two amp maximum, your on board charger will only allow the one amp and keep it safe for you... excuse me to ask, what dna 200 and battery configeration are you using and car charging.
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rock solid with ni200 with the feb 2016 version then updating to a later version and trying a cold stainless coil on a warm board aint going to be brilliant anyway, I inputted on the thread because i think the soldering at the 510 needs addressing and evolv allready advising they havnt heard of any ohm variants related to firmware, its running and updating different firmwares, lol, i would shelve the stainless i dont think its helping.
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I'm convinced your describing an intermitant short,, and its the intermitant bit that will do your head in,,, i may be compleatly wrong and admit i know little about chip programing,, for me the board either works or it doesnt, if you go into your wattage mode, drop it down as far as it will go and retrieve the build number, see if evolvs had any moor of that batch back or '''' what ever.. its allways cost me about seven quid recorded delivery to send a board to the USA and labeleld it as a dead computer chip, they pay the return and the postman signs for it when he hands the replacement to you..
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Not faster than 1amp you wont. But eleven months should have it. Lol. there are a lot of chargers about that arnt very smart, a cheap one is usualy a cheap one, "if ya know what i mean" next time i get a pull for speeding i'll say ""sorry officer i was fast charging my mod" lmao..
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Rubbish.. we havnt even seen the build yet, good grief.. a known problem is nothing to do with or nothing like a common problem,,,, so is dropping it down the toilet, and not relevent.. one cant call oneself a mod builder and then start crying off to the manufacture as soon as somthing goes wrong and have it built for them.. Its a 200 watt board for most of the population who buy a 200 watt board. The poor bloke might only have a broken wire or loose sled tab.
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I'm with chunkybutt, its got to be somthing like that. Wouldnt it be a perfect time and better job to strip out the "two's set up" fit a lipo 3's and unleash the 200.. like its supposed to be..
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Has the fuse lifted off the board on one side ( not solderd down)
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I'd change the 510 out, i'd put my money on a poor connection between the 510 centerpin and atty centerpin dirty, or infirm'' or broken 510 inards.. in your pic, try a nice big blob of solder off a hot iron to freshly cleaned with emery papper and fluxed between the 510 and mod body to ground the two. I think your problems are mechanical and it wount make a difference what program you put in the chip, .. just like a tellevision, if the speaker wires broken it doesnt matter what channel your watching ect ect
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I havnt a clue but am inputting to tell you i wouldnt be worried about reloading the program, any files are kept seperatly so can be retrieved.
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in General Discussion
Posted
Dont know if youv had a look towards the end of the thread https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66183-topic/?do=findComment&comment=894613 where a chap was giving me some advice on setting up a stainless coil, you have described the problems i suffer when using the stuff, i can only add make sure your coil aint shorting against the sides of whatever atty ect and the board is cold as the coil. can only think about ohms still locked after uploading settings, are you changeing from one preset to anouther and have some locked and some open and got them mixed up.. im not sure if its possible to create a file that also locks ohms, but you can easily try it by selecting an empty preset and then select that file profile to the preset and see if its locked ohms when you fire with an atty attached.