ndb

Thanks James, That indeed worked! Well, if you feel bored and want to move that setting into "Options", I don't think it would do any harm... ;-)

Yeah, I have that exact same setting on the "Display" tab, but as you pointed out in your note to James, the profile screen keeps showing a "static" "C". I'm unfortunately not in front of my pc right now and can't take screenshots, but I think you got the idea. Now, I though I had already tried with the US version with no success, but now that I look at your screenshot, it just jogged my memory that I was still seeing the italian translation even after installing the US version, maybe it didn't actually install it over the INTL version that I had installed before? Maybe I should uninstall Escribe completely and then install the US version to see if that works... I'll try when I'll get back home. In any case, I think it is a bug that it doesn't honor what you set in the "Display" tab, even if you're using the INTL version

Hi, I'm experiencing the following with Escribe 2.0, up to the latest SP2, with a therion 75C. Hi, I'm in EU (Italy), but I prefer to keep temperature in F instead of C, so I've set that and indeed on the mod Fahrenheit is being used, but in Escribe I always only see "C" in the profile settings for the temperature. In particular what was a dropdown menu (with "F" and "C" options) in previous Escribe, now is just a static "C" label and it doesn't seem to change even if I set temperature in "F" in the general settings. The value of the temperature I can see in the profile settings is actually converted to C (e.g. I set it to 390F on the mod, then connect to Escribe and I see 199 "C" on the profile settings). Is this expected? Why is not possible anymore to have the profile settings in Escribe to represent temperature in F?

subscribed

Nope, mod resistance for VS200 came factory set to 0.007, and that accounts for the 0.275 to 0.268 difference btw Raw Ohm and Nominal (Kanthal). Honestly that 0.261 to 0.251 difference escapes me. More generally, if the Nominal(Temp) thing is the value of Nominal(Kanthal) value, but normalized to reference temp, I can't understand what's the difference with the cold ohm value. But there must be some difference, as I always get different values between Nominal(Temp) and Cold Ohm with every atty I tried. Could it be that Nominal(temp) is the value it would acquire as the Cold Ohm value if you were connecting the atty in that condition for the first time? I.e. 0.261 would become my cold ohm if I could force the chip to re-acquire the Cold Ohm base resistance somehow? And it is just not asking for a new coil because the difference is under the configured 25% threshold? Wait a minute, I just remembered the atomizer analyzer has something like a "lock ohm" button. Maybe pressing that will force re-acquisition of the Cold Ohm value with the current Nominal(temp) value as per my "if I could force the chip to re-acquire the Cold Ohm base resistance" above? Unfortunately I'm away with no access to my escribe installation, could anybody try and see if "lock ohm" from the atomizer analyzer makes the Cold Ohm value become what's currently displayed as Nominal(temp)?

Thanks @VapingBad, I understand that and it makes sense. I think it would then be reasonable to assume the "cold-ohm" value displayed on the mod screen is always something normalized to some reference temperature, otherwise "refining it" would not make much sense to me, as you can't define an "absolute" true value for a temperature sensing coil without saying at what temperature you're referring it. Am I right? IOW: the on-the-mod-displayed ohm value (the cold ohm, right?) is the estimated value of the attached resistance at a reference temperature, and it is continually adjusted/refined by the chip by "cross-checking" the res-value when idle with the actual temperature measured by the on-board sensor. I think that if that's right, even putting the mod+atty in a freezer, shouldn't change too much the on-the-mod-displayed value, as it should correct the actual value and keep normalizing it to its reference temperature whatever that is. I would do this myself just out of curiosity, but I'm currently traveling with no easy access to fridges and that sort of things, so If anybody could confirm my understanding is correct I'd be very happy. Then the only thing that's still a bit fuzzy is why in my case I was getting a difference btw the 0.261 (Nominal-Temp) value and the 0.251 (Cold Ohm)... Sorry for being a pain, I just really like to fully understand how things work as this really helps me in getting the most out of this excellent board.

Thanks James, that is somehow along the lines of what I was thinking, but couldn't be sure of. The problem is that now this has opened another basket of doubts that I hope you'll be able to help me with: Do you mean the "Cold Ohms"? Isn't that 0.251 in my example? In other words, what's the relation between the "normalized-to-standard-temperature" (i.e. 0.261 in my example) and "Cold Ohms" then?How can my cold ohm reading be 0.251 if the normalized temp is 0.261? Wouldn't that mean that my cold ohm was "acquired" at a temp. well below 70F then? The % variation between 0.251 and 0.261 is 0.01/0.251 ~= 4%, which considering a TiGr1 TCR of 0.0035 would mean dT = 0,04/0,0035 ~= 11 C = 19,8F, and that would mean my cold ohm value was acquired at 70F - 19.8F = 50.2F, which I'm quite sure was not the case.More generally, I'm not sure anymore of how the cold ohm has to be interpreted: is it just the actual acquired value of the resistance, or is it also somehow "normalized" to a certain reference temp? IOW, if I connect an atty while both the mod are at 90F, will the cold ohm value be what the actual resistance was when they got connected, or it will be the resistance that the coil would have had at 70F?

Well, I give up. I can't figure out what the two different values for Nominal Ohms actually mean. I kind of assume the "Nominal Ohms" "(Kanthal)"-qualified reading is whatever the "Raw Ohms" value is, minus the configured mod resistance, but the other value, the one qualified with "(Temp)" I can't wrap my head around. I'm currently looking at my K4 with a titanium coil, with cold reading of 0.25 on a VS200 (mod resistance came in configured at 0.07): Raw Value: 0.275 Nominal Ohms: 0.268 (Kanthal), 0.261 (Temp) Cold Ohms: 0.251 Room Temp: 84.32 So, 0.275 minus mod-resistance(=0.007) = 0.268 and that's ok, but what does the 0.261(Temp) represent? I suspect it has something to do with the "Cold Ohms" reading and the current Room Temperature, but I can't figure it out. Also, Room Temp it's a bit high, since my room's thermometer says 26C (78.8F), and the mod was not used since yesterday. My HanaV200, which for everything else I consider a worse and less refined device, does actually reports 79.2F Shouldn't Vaporshark have already set all case parameters correctly for the temperature to be OK? Thanks for any info you can provide. Andrea.

I think you have no problem at all... Ni200 TCR and Ti1 TCR are different. On a dna board, Ti1 wire on Ni200 profile @175C is IIRC almost around 240C on Ti1 profile. IOW what you're experiencing is kind of expected. Or I completely misunderstood your post, in which case sorry for adding noise...

Yeah, I know, Centigrades have always been second-class citizens, and I can live with that, but you know, we Europeans tend to nitpick every now and then about the whole F vs C thing... Seriously, don't know if this is by design or just a missing call to the "convertToUnitForThisProfile" function right before showing the last temperature, but it happens to always show it in Fahrenheit even though I've chosen Centigrade in the profile as the temperature unit. Just a minor nitpick, but it would be good for my OCD if I could see "C" everywhere on the screen..

Well, I can't decide if the fire button feedback is really bad or not. Damn! I keep clicking the +/- and then the fire button and most of the time it honestly seems to be on par with them, I don't know anymore if I'm fooling myself or not. I don't know how much different the feedback would be in case of pinching, so I can't be sure, I can just say it doesn't seem really that different to me right now. A normal person (which I'm not) would just bite the bullet and open the mod to be sure, but I'm a bit intimidated by all this lipo horror stories and would like to know what's the best disassembling sequence to follow, like in "after removing the screws, what do I do next?" Thanks, Andrea

Hey, this is extremely interesting, as fighting static resistances has been my main hobby since when I completely moved to TC last year, so forgive me if I'm nitpicking, but I want to be sure I understand, so here are my 3 Qs related to the quotes below: QUESTION 1) Why .108? Wouldn't all the contributors above sum up to .002 + .001 + .002 + .003 + .002 + .10 = .11? Is it just a typo or is there some reasoning by which not all the contributes have to be considered? And this brings me straight to QUESTION 2) Regardless it being .108 or .11, would it be correct to say that for the _mod_ resistance (i.e. excluding atomizer + coil) I only have to consider output wiresconnector bodyconnector contact resistanceFor a _mod_ resistance of .002 + .001 + .002 = .005? Maybe this is the reason you suggest to "trim" off the measured shorted-atomizer resistance to about its 80% value? IOW: we have to shelve off a bit of what we measure short-circuiting the atomizer so that we effectively take only the _pure_ mod static resistance into account? And now the final question, strictly related to ni200 TCR: QUESTION 3) If I'm not mistaken, (using the linear approx of the TCR, i.e. dR/R = TCR * dT), given that 412F = 211,11C, this would imply that TCR = 1/211,11 = 0,00473. But I've always heard something along the lines of "ni200 increases its resistance by about 62% every 100C", which makes it for the TCR = 0,0062 that is usually (at least by me) associated with ni200. Is this discrepancy due to the fact that you account for the non-linearity (and hence the simple formula above doesn't hold) or has using 0,0062 always been a mistake?

Hi all, just received my hana v200 and used it for just an hour or so. Everything OK so far, but I've started reading about screen problems that seem to be caused by poor positioning of the screen ribbon cable. As I understand from some pictures I've seen here #3, it seems like the ribbon cable can get pinched somehow by the fire button. Now I'm wondering: is it advisable to open it up and check if that's the case (if it is even possible to detect it when opening the mod, or it just happens when it is fully closed, ala fridge light so to say)? Is there a way to "sense" this by playing with the fire button and how it feeds back to pressure? I'm in europe and only thinking about sending it back or getting a replacement causes me shivers , so I would like to be proactive about that... Thanks, Andrea