awsum140
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Posts posted by awsum140
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Just speculation on my part, but the DNA200 is a temperature controlled board. It's primary feature is temperature control and therefor no real provision for "power mode" was included in the firmware and, my guess again, probably won't be. There are a lot of decent "power control" mods available and I think Evolv was focused on, and provides, an excellent temperature control solution. If I want to use "power mode" I simply use a device optimized for that.
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@thisisfun
I am not saying to use "Google". Use the search tool inside this forum. That way it's device and topic specific. -
OK, I'll play the "adult in the room".
If you look at the top of the page you'll see "search" in the title bar. Click on that and enter "kanthal, preheat" in the search for box. You'll get a bunch of results. To save you time and typing try this link https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/65540-topic/?do=findComment&comment=884720
You'll find that many people on most boars have warped humor and can be, what is perceived as, sarcastic when they are just "poking fun". That's the problem with posts on a board, no way to put in inflection or emphasis to show a fun mood. -
How did I know I'd see that here?
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Sorry, I saw DNA200 heading and missed the DNA75 part....duhhhh
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You did make connections to the JST connector to allow balancing the batteries?
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Chunky, I clean both the atomizer base and the 510 on the mod with IPA at every atomizer change, even though I have zero leaking problems with any of my builds. The TCR is the exact same one for each use, successful use followed by non-successful use, and the exact same TCR that works fine in other mods, DNA200s. Something strange is going on and I have yet to identify it or get feedback from forums or Evolv that can identify it. Multiple boards, added grounds and even did the "eggplant" dance with no changes in behavior.
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There's a trick to pre-folding the ribbon cable to help avoid that problem. The ribbon cable is a lot tuffer than it looks or you might think. If you use a plastic straight edge, credit card, you can get the necessary bends in place. Think sort of a "Z"shape starting at the first hole in the Ziff end and ending just short of the glass at the display end.
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That is the same behavior I have with mine. The workaround, of course, is to "reset" by unscrewing the atty, firing, yadda, yadda, but that gets pretty old pretty fast.
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jesseseetai said:
it's funny you should say that, i took the atty off and reattached it to see if that would fix it. i recognized it as a new atomizer and i locked the resistance in at .48 instead of the original .44 (since i had vaped a little the resistance was higher) and now it's vaping much better and not hitting temp protect at all. weird. but isn't this the opposite of what you're saying?
also the mod is a VapeCige SD Mini 75
Let the mod sit for a while, say at least five minutes, unused, then try it again. I suspect it will revert to low output. I've been there, done that, and a lot more, with all the connection and grounding "tweaks". I'm not saying that it can't be the case here, but think you might see that low output behavior return after the mod "rests" a bit. -
Hmmm.
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Looks great and I love a side by side! What did you use for the enclosure, or how'd you build it.
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Looks great, Scooby!
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Even if they do expand when hot, normal operating conditions shouldn't produce that much heat. Expansion might be a few thousands of a mm until it's hot enough to "cook off", then all bets are off.
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I've gotta ask, how much to you think the battery expands, in length, when it gets warm?
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If you can short out the 510 on the mod that's giving you problems that should tell the tale. It should read "ohms too low" under a "dead short" condition. To do that safely, attach to eScribe and open the atomizer analyzer. In fact, atomizer analyzer will show you what is going on with the mod even with the atomizer attached, but shorting the 510 will be the "proof of the pudding". From what you're saying I'll guess the mod has a problem.
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Well, if it's turning into a "cold" vape that, I suspect, would indicate s sever power drop off. That could be caused by voltage sag or resistance running high and I'd be on resistance. Another problem could be sporadic poor wicking forcing heavy temperature control.
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When it's "misbehaving
Have a look at it in device monitor, that'll help pinpoint the problems. Usually, when I see things like this, my first impulse is to say check all connections, coils, 510 and even internally on the mod itself. Something is triggering this kind of behavior that is "out of the ordinary". JMHO.
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I'd also look at it in eScribe. A 26650 may not be as "potent" as advertised or as dual 18650s which can make the board "struggle" and produce that "weak battery" warning.
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The red top insulator threw me. I have some of those and will be using them in DNA75s I'm working on. I was planning on drilling out the screw and soldering into that.
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That looks good, Scooby. Where'd you get that tube or did you make it?
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I'm happy with the HDs even after trying an HE. Yeah, lower mah rating but heavier CDR. I have three I rotate through in my ERM/DNA75. I'll have to make a decision, though, when I get my low tank, side by side, DNA75s built...HD or HE?
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Love the "scientific" methodology we're applying here. It does give "real world" results, though, which are more important to me than what a bunch of test gear might show.
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I just swapped out HD2s. The one I took out read 3.17 volts and that was the first weak battery message. Battery meter at zero.
New to building
in General Discussion
Posted
I put the Evolv together without using circlip pliers. I just start one end of the clip and sort of push it down, and around, holding the start end in place, letting the cutout in the base guide it in can capture it. Took a little practice to learn it, but I have yet to lose a clip or have one pop out. I do use circlip pliers to remove it though. I'll bet that trick would work with the Cisco.