awsum140
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Posts posted by awsum140
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Alpine Tech, of FleaBay, has nice enclosures with buttons, board sleds and battery holders. Stealth Vape has good 510 connectors. A 3S and a 4S are different plugs, the 3S has four pins, the 4S has five pins, so I don't think you could use a 4S cable to charge a 3S battery, the keyways won't allow it. That's why they're different, to prevent mistakes with, potentially, explosive batteries while charging them.
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Screen or board replacement is on hold. Out of curiosity I changed the theme on the 75C that was producing the white screen occasionally. The theme history is the original Evolv replay theme followed by the original "Materialish Fire" theme. I updated that to the latest version, used it for a few weeks, then reverted back to the original Evolv theme. That's when the white screen problem cropped up.
Monday evening I decided to put the Materialish them back on it, haven't seen a white screen since. Another thing that was happening with reload of the original Evolv theme was that it was constantly asking "new coil", almost every time it sat for a half hour or more. That "symptom" has also disappeared. I can't help but wonder if there's a glitch, somewhere, in the original Evolv theme on a reload or if it simply just glitched on my 75C when I reloaded it.
Ah, the mysteries of modern vaping, but cudos to Sir Timmy Timbit for that theme!
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I hate screws showing on the front of a mod so I gamble the board/screen won't fail and use CA or epoxy. I've tried various tapes but never found one thin enough or adhesive enough. Board sleds aren't expensive in the grand scheme of things, just a little finicky getting the old one out, but heck, it's on the inside where the mistakes won't show anyway.
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I built the mod, a GL1 from AlpineTech, and there's no way to get the screen out without pulling the board sled, not enough room the way the screen recess is made. Worst case I'll need a new sled. Not a biggie, just a PITA, and I will remove the board before I work on getting the sled out.
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It looks like I've joined the "white screen club" only mine is on a 75C. I had been using the mod for a while, put it down for a few minutes, picked it up and got a blank white screen. I removed the batteries, dual 20700s, put them back in and all was fine again. I did notice a few extra characters down in the lower right coner of the display that looked like "gs" or "6s", couldn't really tell. Now the background has gone white. I'm using the default Evolv theme and that has a black fading to blue at the bottom background normally. Maybe time for a new screen, groan! The board sled is epoxied into the mod 😕
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Did it ever dawn on you to open a ticket with Evolv? They stand behind their products pretty well and I'm betting they'll fix it and ship it back to you quite quickly and at no charge to boot. I've got a dozen DNA devices running, from a DNA40 on up to several DNA250Cs, with the oldest being over four years of regular use, and have had one that failed. Then again all mine are hand built by me so I can't speak to the quality of commercial stuff.
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Generally speaking the screw size, machine screw size, is 0-80. For plastic or wood a size 0 with an appropriate length would work.
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My experience is that is related to a poor connection(s) somewhere in the atomizer/mod combo. Grub screws, 510 center pin, plating on the atomizer or mod 510, unstable coil material...well, you get the idea.
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3.7x3x4=44.4 watt hours
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IS that an N1 enclosure?
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I think the bottom line is that replay is more of a refined TC method. It won't work unless a TC capable wire is used and it measures the resistance. By inference, that resistance translates to a specific temperature.
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Sounds like, possibly, a corrupt file. Maybe doing it all again will help. Personally, I'd get rid of any atomizer that had "questionable resistance".
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Upload the default theme to the device after updating Escribe. Enable "Replay" in the profiles you want to use it in and upload those settings to the device.
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The belt clip is a nice addition since neither the GL or N are particularly "pocket friendly".
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And here's yet another one. Alpine Tech N1 case, 2200mah, 4S, NanoTech with a Source 510. 14 gauge battery wire and an XT60. 12 gauge output wire. 16mm full travel switch wired with 28 gauge silicon. That's a GL2, dual 20700, DNA75C on the left and and ERM+ in the middle for size comparisons.
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I just built an N1, too. What size battery did you use? Mine is a 2200mah, 4S, NanoTech.
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I bought, and built, a couple of 75Cs in anticipation of replay coming along, eventually and hopefully. Having a little idea of what it takes to write code makes me very patient. Bugs and "whoops" crop up all the time, even with all the alpha and beta testing in the world. Real world can't actually be duplicated even with beta testing since beta testing is usually done by "experts" or at least people with more knowledge and experience which doesn't duplicate the rest of us thumb fingered tinkerers. It'll get released if and when Evolv thinks it's ready, no sooner and no later. Be patient folks.
On a side note, I didn't rush into the 75C when it came out because I was happy with the 75, 200 and 250. Now that I've used a 75C for a few days I'm liking it a lot and should have done this sooner. Now I'm off to finish the 250C sitting on my, what passes for, workbench. Just need to shovel the stuff off to the side so I have a clear spot to work.
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I don't mind a little "proud", keeps marks off the mod, but the Evolv would stick out about 1.8mm. Way too much.
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The 510s are StealthVape Source Flats, 22mm. I would have used Evolv 510s but the case top is too thin for them without major work to get them to sit flush.
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I'm building two Alpine Tech GL2s and they hold dual 20700s, if that helps. The GL2 isn't too big and all the long sides have rounded edges so it's pretty comfortable in the hand.
Left to right - Kanger K1(DNA75), Mod Crate ERM(DNA75), ERM+(1300mah DNA200), GL2(dual 20700 DNA75C), Alpine Tech N1(2200mah, 4S, DNA250C). The 75C and 250C are awaiting 510 connectors.
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Since you're running a 75C in temp mode, why not plug into a PC or laptop and run Device Monitor in Escribe? That will show you the power and temperature graphically. The you'll see at what power level your desired temperature is achieved at.
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Without using a mod with TC there are just too many variables involved to be able to determine temperature simply from ohms and watts. Specific atomizer, coil diameter, wrap spacing, air flow, wick efficiency and a bunch of other minor variables come in to play. All those factors can vary from build to build which make it even more difficult to say what the real coil temperature may be.
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Right there, behind the milk.
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Check this thread on this board -
White Screen!
in General Discussion
Posted
In this case it might not be a screen or board failure but a glitch, somewhere, in the screen coding. I'm not saying the problem is "cured" I'm just saying the problem has not reappeared since changing the theme, which is kind of strange.