Wayneo

OK, so think this through. When you hit the fire button, batteries generate heat (but this doesn't count) as well as inductors on the back of the board. That's where the majority of the heat comes from. Stop doing that. The programming on the board is doing all that.

In normal usage the ambient temp is pretty flat, but it will change. It really only matters if you are a TC vaper. When you put cells back in, it also re-reads the resistance of your coil.

I'll take a guess. Weak flavor, tiny clouds. Coil barely reached 260°F. (I walked the line 🤮)

Easy, just use straight watts at the risk of a dry burn from your cotton.

Let me give you a general explanation based on what you have written. Replay wants to recreate the puff you saved. Your coil/mesh will raise its resistance when you fire it, and lower its resistance as it cools back to ambient temperature. When in your 'Replay' mode, but NOT enabled, the mod keeps track of that resistance curve created by your puff. And when you click 'Save Puff' your mod tries to recreate that curve. Sometimes exactly, or at lower wattages. Your mod 'right now' shows 'boost:Punch' at 3 (but not on), 'warmth' at 1. So right now you get no boost of watts initially, and it's just 50 watts. Once you click 'save puff' warmth now enters the picture. IF you were chain vaping your coil before enabling replay and your coil has cooled to ambient you will get even more watts than 50 but not too much. That's warmth. OR depending on different factors you definitely get less watts than what you initially set. Like if your coil is not as saturated as when you enabled replay. You can actually vape that mesh almost DRY without a dry burn. If you have any questions or want me to clarify anything let me know. Or if I have cleared up your understanding.

I can't look at that. For the third time, look at dwcraig's S C R E E N S H O T

You need to plug into your PC, and start escribe. I need you to go into escribe (with mod plugged in) and do a full screenshot of the profile you're using. When you start escribe you'll see 'current profile' and a number. Click below on that number then do a screenshot.

@dwcraig was right when he said it could be your wicking, but post an escribe screenshot of the profile you are using. Bolded words have special meanings Screenshot instructions in my signature line ⬇️

IMHO you've gotta meter out all your connections. For the USB-C you know it has worked outside the box. I'd lift that off and see if it connects, then lift at the board end if it still didn't connect. What else could it be? Same thing for the battery. Using 1 battery, measure it externally then in each slot at all the connection points to the board. Then do the other battery slot. Same thing for the fire button and up/down.

Great news. 👍 Let us know the final outcome if you remember 🙂

Well, if that was after i said then open a Help Desk ticket. ⬇️ Link in my signature line. ⬇️

I'm too tired to guess what Device Monitor shows

B- and G ground is cell 1 negative. Pin 1 is cell 1 positive and cell 2 negative. Yes, Pin 2 is cell 2 positive and needs to be bridged to 2-4 plus B+ like you have. But you need to clean it up. I also worry about all that exposed wire on the red. When you're done, use your multimeter and measure Ground + Pin1 (cell 1 voltage), then Pin1 + Pin2 (cell 2 voltage).

DO YOU SEE ME POST %'s IN MY POSTS? Now look at your cells. You really need to redo that soldering or clean it up so solder is only each pad from ground, pin 1, and pin2. I'll tell you from now, if I see a single % in anymore of your posts, someone else can help you.

Yes