Therion BF always hot, drains Batt.

[Blaize]

Gents, I just bought a 2nd hand Therion BF and I'm pretty sure its stuffed. Just looking for input or other ideas. it works and hits fine, but it is CONSUMING the battery at pretty high rate (like dropping a percent or two PER HIT) and the faceplate is damned warm. Im running a Goon LP on it at .25 ohm, with an LG HG2. eventually it started giving me a "too hot" message and wouldn't fire anymore. This was after 2 hours of normal use, and the battery was then down to 40 percent or so. SO I swapped in a VTC5A and left it alone for an hour, and that battery lost 8 percent just sitting at idle. And its still pretty warm despite not having fired.

So, batteries are out of it and I am deciding what to do. FWIW I also have an old normal DNA 75 Therion so I know this hot faceplate is abnormal. I run roughly the same .2-.3 ohm builds in it, with 2 HG2's and just about always have it last all day (and usually only just below half full on battery by the end of the day).

Looks like there is something wrong with this new one. Explains the price. (no I cannot return it, bought it thru online classifieds). So has anyone run into this before? sound familiar to anyone?

I am debating between ordering a dna75 chip and just changing out the board, or taking apart my old Therion and swapping the boards out (my old one looks pretty rough) I'll give it a few more days of playing with it to see if I had a bad (or fake) battery in there, but everything is pointing to it draining the batt all the time and warming up as a result.

edit-

Just tested it again, by putting a fully charged LG2 in it and leaving it sitting with no atomiser. an hour later its warm and the batt is down to 93%. Buyer beware I suppose. Looks like I'll have to take the damned thing apart and most likely replace the board. I'll still come out ahead, and its in immaculate physical condition, but that doesn't make it any less annoying. Still, if anyone has run into this in the past I would be all ears as to what to look out for.

[ThatGuySwain]

I have seen this a few times before, sounds like one of the capacitors near the the thermistor (board temp sensor) has shorted. This is typically caused by ejuice soaking the board. DNA boards are coated to withstand liquids, but it is not 100% invulnerable. 

[Blaize]

Hmmm. I have yet to take it apart as I need to buy the torx for the 510 connection, so I'll have a look inside tomorrow. But that certainly sounds plausible. I assume that these are all surface mount components and there is very little on the board that can actually be repaired right? So win lose or draw, I am going to have to change the whole thing anyway?

Edited July 12, 2017 by Blaize
spelling

[ThatGuySwain]

Yes, I am not a fan of the way you need to take the 510 out to take the therions apart. its a T-5 torx in case you need that info. and again, yes, they are surface mount parts, and it requires a board replacement. I have also attached a picture of a worst case scenario short on a board. 

[Blaize]

Thanks, that info does actually help a great deal. I figured a problem like a parasitic draw was going to be terminal so I have just ordered a fresh board. I'll grab the torx in the mean time and just wait till the board arrives and swap it out. 

 

Thanks again and I'll update here as to what I find in there. 

[ThatGuySwain]

You're very welcome, glad I could help. hope it all goes smoothly for you.

And if you have not had a Therion apart before, there are 4 small screws (small Phillips) underneath the wood/carbon fiber panels that hold the device together along with the 4 Allen socket screws. A heat gun\ hairdryer and a razor blade will take those panels off fairly easy. The 4 screws that are in the back of the battery sled do NOT need to come out unless you want to remove the sled. 

and I'll be looking forward to your update. 

[Blaize]

Well, I just changed the board and you were right on the money. Kind of amazing managing to diagnose it over the internet based only on a description. See attached, dead board on top.

Exactly like the one you posted a photo of. I replaced it and now its working as it should. So thanks a TON for your help. Your advice regarding taking the Therion apart was also very useful. All in only took 30-40 min start to finish. At this point I am not far off what I would have spent on a new one, but I suppose I do have a spare DNA screen now, and if I am totally honest I rather enjoyed fixing it.

 

Thanks again man.

 

Edited July 16, 2017 by Blaize

[ThatGuySwain]

Glad I could help and glad you got it working again. 

 

[Andrea76]

Box works but it drains batteries even in sleep. 8am to 12.30pm, from 99% to 0. Not being used. 

Here the situation.

Do u think I am going to fix it changing only the resistor like or will i need toc change also the capacitor?

Can not find any information about those components