Im over it.

[Jaquith]

mactavish said:

....

BUILD: Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread. According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts. I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!

I find Sweet Spot (Titanium alloy, it's not pure Ti) you can get red hot leads especially if they're >3 mm in length. Also most of the polished Titanium lost ~1 gauge from being polished. 

A 5.5 suggests 6 out and 5 in as a 'U' shape .. try making the coil a pure 6 warp with 90-degree bends (quick and dirty example):

 

Hot legs from Sweet Spot Titanium (alloy of TiFe; note grade 1-5): 

 

[mactavish]

Jaquith said:

[QUOTE=mactavish]....

BUILD: Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread. According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts. I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!

I find Sweet Spot (Titanium alloy, it's not pure Ti) you can get red hot leads especially if they're >3 mm in length. Also most of the polished Titanium lost ~1 gauge from being polished. 

A 5.5 suggests 6 out and 5 in as a 'U' shape .. try making the coil a pure 6 warp with 90-degree bends (quick and dirty example):

 

Hot legs from Sweet Spot Titanium (alloy of TiFe; note grade 1-5): 

 [/QUOTE] I'm using G1 titanium from Unkaman in these builds. My coils are not wide enough to make the post holes. So even with a turn as you show, I have to go out left and right with bare wire leads to make it to the posts, hope I'm explaining it well.

[Jaquith]

mactavish said:

I'm using G1 titanium from Unkaman in these builds. My coils are not wide enough to make the post holes. So even with a turn as you show, I have to go out left and right with bare wire leads to make it to the posts, hope I'm explaining it well.

IF your Titanium 'Grade 1' is doing that then I'd really question it being 'Grade 1' .. ?? So if it's a problem then more coils spaced like a spring, leads bent as described and have the spring coil from on post to the other. Ideally, I prefer 24 Gauge Titan Wires Titanium .. it works flawlessly. 

[mactavish]

I like 24 gauge better myself, but to get the property build in this base, I had to go with 28. I can't spread the coils any further, they are already far apart.

[Jaquith]

mactavish said:

I like 24 gauge better myself, but to get the property build in this base, I had to go with 28. I can't spread the coils any further, they are already far apart.

Then I'd get some 26 gauge. I use Titan Wires and it's been a pleasure to use. Their polished is off by 1 gauge; so 26 = 27, 24 = 25 and 22 = 23. I have yet to find any Atty that I can't get 24 gauge to work.

[mactavish]

I have 26. This was my build. http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp?a=true&mat=ti1&s=dp&r=0.2&hfnw=25&awg=28&id=2.5&ll=10&ws=0.25

[Jaquith]

I'd set my wattage at 18W-20W and try disabling the Preheat (1,1,0). Then if it works try raising the Preheat to 30W, Punch 5, 0.5 Seconds. Thin gauge wire heats extremely fast.

[mactavish]

Yeah, learned the hard way about preheat and thin wire. While my normal setting of 100 watt preheat and middle punch works fine for my 24 g Ti builds in a STM, the quick heat up in the squonker atties can be way too much, hot legs, and cotton fires. I also somehow suspect my hot lead legs are not just due to extra length, but the thinner wire seems to get pulled to the sides of the post screws, and not directly down on the wire. These squonker atties are CHEAP, the posts and screws, not the highest quality, but then again, many seem to report great results, so I always look to what I may be doing wrong. Most of those that have responded are using kanthal, so I'm still not sure if wire type in these type of atties matters or not. Then you have the added connections, which we know TC vaping does not always like either. To be honest, I thought for the small investment it would be fun to try the Fountain V2, and the Skyfall, but both of these devices are far too much work for me to enjoy them, if I ever got them working, and perhaps the happy reviewers are mostly using non TC modes, kanthal etc. I enjoy a challange so I may revisit them later.

[Guest]

mactavish said:

Thought this message I left in an ECF forum pertains to the preheat settings. I have not figured out how to tame the hot legs I get when doing a build where the lead legs are long and exposed. I'm a newb in building. Turning off all preheat settings was the only current solution I could find to tame the hot legs and actual cotton fire issues I've had, on these squonker type atomizers. No issues with preheat in my normal STM builds. PASTED POST: Well I just spent an hour building a dual coil for the Skyfall, which is a pump tank below, that feeds the RDA, that sits above it, basically a tank squonker. Annealed the 28 gauge titanium, then made the two coils, slow pulsed them on the mod. Wicked with KGD. Test firing at my normal STM setting of 470f, at 25 watts, with the top cap off I could see red hot legs that are long going into the posts. Just on two, not all four. This is the same issue I had with similar build on the Fountain, which is a similar tank squonker, it uses a squeeze bottle, like a Reo. These red hot legs can and will catch the cotton on fire, as I've seen it, and of course makes for a nasty vape. I spent so much time making this build, I did not want to give up. I had a feeling the normal preheat of 100 watts on my Vaporshark DNA200, may be the cause, as that's when the leads go hot, on first button fire. Went into Escribe, and turned OFF all preheat settings. No more red hot legs! Seems to be working. I did have to lower my temperature from my normal Ti of 470f, to 350f, and increased my wattage from 25 to 35. BUILD: Dual coils, Titanium 28 gauge, 5.5 wraps, 2.5mm ID. Fairly wide coil spread. According to steam engine total resistance should be .20 ohms. The mod shows .27 ohms. I assume it's the long leads needed to get to the posts. I'm a pretty novice builder, most of them on simple Subtank Minis, the coils use very short leads, and it's an easy build using mostly 24 gauge Ti, 5-6 wraps. So I have NO idea how folks deal with really long leads that don't sit in the cotton, are mostly out in the open and can get HOT? I've seen photos of builds like mine, so I'm not sure what the difference may be. But certainly turning OFF the preheat settings, has helped. Ideas welcome!

OK sounds to me like you all are having fun. been there done that so trying to help Nickel ni200 tempered drove me over the edge. titanium too. till I learned how to work with it not much better first thing I did was get away from steam Calc. now second thing build low till I got more use to my device nothing over .12 so .07/.12 spacing on titanium is not as bad as nickel I build twisted and Clapton titanium now my mod and the Calc I use match. by the way 28 GA 2.25 center titanium is .2 at 7/8 raps dual coil. right now I have a 26 GA titanium dual coil build in my Goliath v2 center is 2.25 tight 6 even spaced raps .1 ohms works great all my RTA I only run the heat max 475/490 dual coil build and 430 460 Singer coil the heat is read from the center of the coil slam it to hard legs get hot center cold so sum this up clean your titanium before you start soap and water about 7 " of wire then learn your wire size I use 26/27/28/32 for RTA and 22 for RDA twisted 26 ga or Clapton .26 /32 my ohms stay put cold coils must be cold to get proper reading they change i just snug up the screws on the atty just like A1 and don't throw too many watts at it till I notice the mod adjustin as I vape I like starting at 425 degrees Fahrenheit 40 watts till I find the sweet spot tanks I use delta 2 kangar sub Goliath v 2 RDA not often in temp mutation v3 it dose not get much use any more sub tank plus titanium