Wismec LG HE4 advice.

[Conanthewarrior]

Hello everyone.

I have a question about the W/h's and discharge profile set for the Wismec Reulaeux DNA200, as I am using LG HE4's.

It comes preset with a custom CSV for the device, and the battery W/h's is set to 21.44.

I have been using it like this since I got it, but realise the W/h's are actually 28.5. I have a set of 4 completely fresh LG HE4's, and 3 are now in the device-hence me changing the W'h meter to its correct setting.

It has been working fine, although due to the difference in W/h's I gather the battery meter is probably off.

I have changed the watt hours to 28.5,I know not each battery will be dead on 2500MAH, but I am guessing the differences should balance out-as is the case with the batteries I was using.
I was using some older LG HE4's (a month old) that was a married pair, plus another battery-these were dead in balance, all the way through discharge in escribe-I used these as they was all I had, and I knew that the batteries had had a very similar amount of use over the few weeks I had owned them, so I probably will keep these as my set to swap too when the batteries in the device die.

The new batteries I have are slightly off, by around .1V on the third cell-but I guess this is where they are new, and after a few cycles they will level out to work together.

Now-I have changed the watt hours to a more acceptable level to make the meter more accurate-but should I also change the discharge profile that come with the device? That is for a 21.44W/h setup-but this is only in writing, it  still functions the same with a higher capacity set up, and am thinking it may be best to leave that alone, as it is, as the discharge profile seems to work well.

So-would you change the CSV discharge profile for the batteries-or leave it standard as come with the device? I am thinking leave it, as the designers of the device seem to have made a good discharge profile, but if I notice it is not accurate now I have set the W/h's to what they should be, I will need to make a custom discharge CSV-or just go back to the slightly off battery meter, that still worked fine.

So, in this situation, what would you personally do? Just change the W/h's as I have done, and keep the battery profile as is, or create a new battery profile?

Thanks everyone for your help, Conan.

[Spector NS5 RD]

Conanthewarrior said:

Hello everyone.

I have a question about the W/h's and discharge profile set for the Wismec Reulaeux DNA200, as I am using LG HE4's.

It comes preset with a custom CSV for the device, and the battery W/h's is set to 21.44.

I have been using it like this since I got it, but realise the W/h's are actually 28.5. I have a set of 4 completely fresh LG HE4's, and 3 are now in the device-hence me changing the W'h meter to its correct setting.

It has been working fine, although due to the difference in W/h's I gather the battery meter is probably off.

I have changed the watt hours to 28.5,I know not each battery will be dead on 2500MAH, but I am guessing the differences should balance out-as is the case with the batteries I was using.
I was using some older LG HE4's (a month old) that was a married pair, plus another battery-these were dead in balance, all the way through discharge in escribe-I used these as they was all I had, and I knew that the batteries had had a very similar amount of use over the few weeks I had owned them, so I probably will keep these as my set to swap too when the batteries in the device die.

The new batteries I have are slightly off, by around .1V on the third cell-but I guess this is where they are new, and after a few cycles they will level out to work together.

Now-I have changed the watt hours to a more acceptable level to make the meter more accurate-but should I also change the discharge profile that come with the device? That is for a 21.44W/h setup-but this is only in writing, it  still functions the same with a higher capacity set up, and am thinking it may be best to leave that alone, as it is, as the discharge profile seems to work well.

So-would you change the CSV discharge profile for the batteries-or leave it standard as come with the device? I am thinking leave it, as the designers of the device seem to have made a good discharge profile, but if I notice it is not accurate now I have set the W/h's to what they should be, I will need to make a custom discharge CSV-or just go back to the slightly off battery meter, that still worked fine.

So, in this situation, what would you personally do? Just change the W/h's as I have done, and keep the battery profile as is, or create a new battery profile?

Thanks everyone for your help, Conan.

why don't you run battery analyzer? at the end of the test it'll create a csv discharge curve and input the correct watt hours for those exact batteries you tested. you'll notice that after running the test, the curve will be different for a 18650 compared to a lipo. lipo's drop off sharply when they get to the end of their charge. not as much with 18650's. thats why i say run the analyzer for best/most accurate results.

[Conanthewarrior]

I will be honest-the reason I have not run the anylyzer is because I do not have any resistors to do the test. 

Is there another way I can safely do this test? 

For example, running the test with 22 gauge large loops of kanthal? 

Also, I was a bit worried about running the test, as it is a constant firing basically isn't it? I was thinking with 3 18650's in there, running the test might be dangerous on the batteries.

What power does it pull from the batteries during the test? As I know it is a regulated device, and would set a discharge profile for these very batteries, but I would not want an accident to happen, not because of my device but I did not want to risk an explosion in my house. I understand that the battery anylyzer probably does not pull more than their constant 20A rating? 

So-if anyone can tell me how to safely run the test, and what I can use in place of resistors (I can always order some resistors if it is really necessary)? 

I will say-I have not yet drained the batteries from the time I made this post. I own 16 regulated devices, 4 of which are DNA200's, so I use more than one device. 

But-it seems like the meter is more accurate now I have changed the watt hours-I really need to run it to flat though to find out if it is close enough for my liking-if not, I want to safely run the battery anylyzer test. 

I guess it will take around 30 minutes or so of constant firing? Or is it a lot faster than this? 

Thank you everyone for your help, Conan.

[Spector NS5 RD]

Conanthewarrior said:

I will be honest-the reason I have not run the anylyzer is because I do not have any resistors to do the test. 

Is there another way I can safely do this test? 

For example, running the test with 22 gauge large loops of kanthal? 

Also, I was a bit worried about running the test, as it is a constant firing basically isn't it? I was thinking with 3 18650's in there, running the test might be dangerous on the batteries.

What power does it pull from the batteries during the test? As I know it is a regulated device, and would set a discharge profile for these very batteries, but I would not want an accident to happen, not because of my device but I did not want to risk an explosion in my house. I understand that the battery anylyzer probably does not pull more than their constant 20A rating? 

So-if anyone can tell me how to safely run the test, and what I can use in place of resistors (I can always order some resistors if it is really necessary)? 

I will say-I have not yet drained the batteries from the time I made this post. I own 16 regulated devices, 4 of which are DNA200's, so I use more than one device. 

But-it seems like the meter is more accurate now I have changed the watt hours-I really need to run it to flat though to find out if it is close enough for my liking-if not, I want to safely run the battery anylyzer test. 

I guess it will take around 30 minutes or so of constant firing? Or is it a lot faster than this? 

Thank you everyone for your help, Conan.

the test runs at 40 watts default, which can be changed up or down. it doesn't constant fire the atty. it's ten seconds on and ten seconds off. it fires, then it waits for the battery voltage to settle, then fires again. 

i used 4 loops of 22 gauge kanthal. each loop 13 inches. in a velocity clone.

don't worry about the drain on your batts, remember the dna200 only draws 25 amps max from the batts since it's a buck converter. 

depending on the wattage you run the test at it could take less than an hour to a couple hours. i'd just leave it at the default 40 watts.

just remember to not walk away too while it's testing. and you'll be fine. it's safe to run as long as you have safety in mind.

[Conanthewarrior]

ChunkyButt200 said:

the test runs at 40 watts default, which can be changed up or down. it doesn't constant fire the atty. it's ten seconds on and ten seconds off. it fires, then it waits for the battery voltage to settle, then fires again. 

i used 4 loops of 22 gauge kanthal. each loop 13 inches. in a velocity clone.

don't worry about the drain on your batts, remember the dna200 only draws 25 amps max from the batts since it's a buck converter. 

depending on the wattage you run the test at it could take less than an hour to a couple hours. i'd just leave it at the default 40 watts.

just remember to not walk away too while it's testing. and you'll be fine. it's safe to run as long as you have safety in mind.

Thank you for the explanation-I have the battery meter within what I would class acceptable, and an acceptable amount of W/h's for these batteries.

If in future, when I need new batteries, if I use different ones I will definitely use battery analyzer to get a dead on reading for my exact batteries. 

What I have currently done is found another LG HE4 profile, the watt hours seem perfectly reasonable and the battery meter seems to work well, so I will probably stick with that for now.

But I am glad to know I can do it, and quite safely, so thank you for the information .