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resistance issues with VT75 nano


mylt1
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i got a VT75 nano the end of last month and it seems to be having issues with the resistance no matter what i do. i use 5 different tanks(2 kanger subtanks and 3 kanger top tanks) and all suffer from the wrong resistance on the 75. they all read correctly and fire correctly on my DNA200. i have messed around in escribe, changing the mods internal resistance and that just seems to make it worse so as it sits the internal resistance is set to 0. i have cleaned the battery cap threads, the 510 threads, the pos pin, and even the 510 disk with no change. so, anyone have any idea on what the issue could be? something internal that needs to be sent back for replacement?


OH, forgot to add, the attys all show between .29 and .31 on the DNA200. on the 75 they jump from .27 cold to .37 warm. they can be showing the correct resistance as they should but then not fire correctly. remove the tank, press the fire button, screw the tank back in and then it will show a higher resistance and then will fire correctly even if its as high as .37 on a cold .29 coil.

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I would try removing the screws in the top and bottom of the body, and sliding the battery tube/body away from the frame. You will see the 75 board held in place by three screws, two at the top of the board and one in the bottom left. If you can, make sure those screws are snug, even a 1/4 turn sometimes can be the difference between a good stable resistance reading and an unstable one. Make sure to use the appropriately sized drivers as the screws can be easy to strip if your driver doesn't fit right.

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so i have just found something new. it seems the 75 is kicking my SS coils out of temp control and firing them just in wattage mode. the coils work fine on my DNA200 with temp control but the 75 fires for a second in temp then kicks it out.

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[quote]I would try removing the screws in the top and bottom of the body, and sliding the battery tube/body away from the frame. You will see the 75 board held in place by three screws, two at the top of the board and one in the bottom left. If you can, make sure those screws are snug, even a 1/4 turn sometimes can be the difference between a good stable resistance reading and an unstable one. Make sure to use the appropriately sized drivers as the screws can be easy to strip if your driver doesn't fit right.[/quote]Nick is this applicable only when you haven't soldered a negative wire from the 510 to the board and the screws are acting as negatives?
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