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Posts posted by ruckus
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"Puff saved, playing" meaning you have saved a puff in replay mode and its replicating it.
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4 minutes ago, forslind94 said:
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Is that a RGB strip ?
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I replaced my screen yesterday, fired right back up and were back in business baby woo hoo!
My replacement screen bounced around Australia for an entire week... the ironic thing is it only took 2 days to get here from the US!
Just thought id share a quick update, cheers.
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4 hours ago, awsum140 said:
I built the mod, a GL1 from AlpineTech, and there's no way to get the screen out without pulling the board sled, not enough room the way the screen recess is made. Worst case I'll need a new sled. Not a biggie, just a PITA, and I will remove the board before I work on getting the sled out.
1 hour ago, steamer861 said:The external chip mount may not look as good with the 3 screws in the face of the mod, But would have come in handy right about now.
This is precisely why I use some really good quality 3M double sided tape.. it works fantastic. I believe it's meant to be used in automotive interiors ? Couldn't tell you much more about it than that..
Hold everything in place, but is removable if need be..
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3 hours ago, awsum140 said:
It looks like I've joined the "white screen club" only mine is on a 75C. I had been using the mod for a while, put it down for a few minutes, picked it up and got a blank white screen. I removed the batteries, dual 20700s, put them back in and all was fine again. I did notice a few extra characters down in the lower right coner of the display that looked like "gs" or "6s", couldn't really tell. Now the background has gone white. I'm using the default Evolv theme and that has a black fading to blue at the bottom background normally. Maybe time for a new screen, groan! The board sled is epoxied into the mod 😕
That's going to be a little tricky to get out haha.. I would try unscrew the board and remove the screen before trying to pry it out.
I'm hoping to receive my replacement screen today.. looking forward to getting my 250C back into my rotation.
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2 minutes ago, forslind94 said:
i was wondering if i can draw something around 340 ma of current from one of those pins without any magic smoke apering. It works in the regular 250 board but the driving components might be diffrent.
it´s a little work, but you could just take a normal led switch and replace the led with a smaller rgb, like the one on the board.
A lot of the LED switches are sealed tho.. at least the ones I have on hand, not sure how you would replace the LED.
I have attached the data sheet for the RGB should find what your looking for in there..
After it was all said and done, I didn't find it worth the effort, pushed on and put together my mod.
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3 hours ago, forslind94 said:
Any progress?
I identified the pins, couldn't find a switch suitable for the job. The RGB switches are just to large and bulky..
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On 6/8/2018 at 7:47 PM, steamer861 said:
Yes, the mod has been working fine for several days now. It was the screen.
When I opened the mod. I was expecting, some thing obvious? A bad kink in the lead? a juice soaked screen? a loose Zif?
None of that
Every thing looked perfect! I guess the screen just went out.
Ah that's a shame, same thing with mine.. nothing visibility wrong.
I ended up ordering a new screen, will see how we go!
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@steamer861 did you ever manage to fix this issue ? Just started happening to me few minutes ago.
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15 minutes ago, gizman said:
Well said sir. I obviously need to invest in a printer, I think that may be my next purchase. After I get these next two mods built I think I will take the time to learn some new skills
Before you go investing in a printer, I would recommend checking out a printing service like 3Dhubs.com
Very inexpensive, I've printed quite a few enclosures in the past for other projects through them. Tons of suppliers on there so they are very competitive with prices generally costs me $15-$20 delivered AUD for a enclosure.
Fantastic service, I was considering purchasing a printer myself... but honestly I just wouldn't use it enough to justify the purchase.
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13 minutes ago, gizman said:
Yeah, I love them as well, but I end up scratching them, and they are so BIG and HEAVY, if you work with someone on Shapeways instead of making what you want fit in the enclosure you can just have an enclosure made that fits what you want perfectly, and is of a lightweight durable material that doesn't show scratches. And if you do mess one up, just reprint.
I understand they aren't for everyone, but they work best for me. Frogmod (laguz75 on Shapeways) worked with me in his spare time over several weeks to get me exactly what I wanted, I can't thank him enough, very smart, creative guy that will help you out if you are looking for something specific and can't find what you want.
Probably others that would do the same, but he really did me a solid and put up with my BS, so I really appreciate it Frogmod if you are reading this!
Don't get me wrong tho I like the idea of a 3D printed enclosure (weight/scratch resistant) but yeah I couldn't justify the price..
Found these STEP files online just in case anyone reading this is interested on getting the ball rolling on a 3D printed reference case on the cheap: http://www.mamumods.com/dna250c/250CReferenceCase.zip
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1 minute ago, gizman said:
Yeah, they aren't cheap, but I can build the whole mod for around $200 US, would cost $250 for a Boxer or the like. I printed my first DNA 200 off of Shapeways 3 years ago and it's still going strong, have dropped it, shoot, tripped and threw it against concrete, the mod was fine, atty glass was broken, but the material shapeways uses is super durable.
I have a DNA250 that I printed almost 2 years ago, it's still going strong, and nearly unbreakable. It seems expensive, but compared to $300-$400 for other lipo mods it's so much better, and lighter than a dual 18650 Zinc or Alum. mod. I've bought products from all sorts, and nothing seems to take a licking and keep on ticking like the ones I 3D print on Shapeways and make myself.
Man I swear by alpinetech.. love those enclosures. . cheap too!
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10 minutes ago, gizman said:
Laguz75 just posted this to Shapeways for me:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/E28XXKAEX/tool-30mm-mod?optionId=65433302
Ordered two, one will sport the Maxamps 1300MaH 4s up to 400W, the other I will be using the Maxamps 1800MaH 3s for up to 300W, I will post picks of both once I have them built, this will go with the one I made and posted earlier in the thread, right now they say they will ship on about 5/15, so I anticipate having them both put together that weekend.
In the meantime here is another pic of the first DNA250C that I printed and built from Shapeways.
Man those enclosures are expensive ... $81 AUD asking price for 3D printed part's seems ridiculous.
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9 minutes ago, awsum140 said:
3.7x3x4=44.4 watt hours
Was hoping for real world results haha.. But that works, thanks!
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6 hours ago, Kdot1717 said:
My custom 250c 4000 mah 3s lipo
What a beast !? How many watt hour's does something like that give you ?
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19 hours ago, ChunkyButt200 said:
Lipo used, 510 connector? Looks great BTW!
Varitube V2 510 - Tattu 3S 1300mah (15.733Wh)
Battery life has actually surprised and impressed me to be honest.. Very comparable to my dual 20700 DNA75C (17.996Wh)
Tattu is a very reputable brand in the RC quad world which is why I went with them, they can handle massive speed punch out's from racing quads... won't have any issues handling the DNA!
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Popped my lipo mod cherry last night.. hahaha
First lipo mod I've owned/built..
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Just now, BlindBuck said:
Hello longtime lurker and DNA user.
Has anyone been successful using a single quad core fused clapton ((316L(30x4/40)) with replay? I get my puff where I want it save it and then vape away. My vape experience is all over the place. From perfect to pathetic.lol
I do not have this problem whatsoever using a single dual core fused clapton ((316L(30x2/40)). With that coil my vape experience is perfect and far surpasses TC. I also do not have the issue running the aforementioned coils in a dual coil setup.
Just in case it is needed my coils are from AVS and I'm using a Therion DNA 75C and a Mirage DNA 75C.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If it feels like it's cutting power off to the coils, amp up the replay warmth.
If it continues to happen however and your coils are getting wicked hot, it's probably due to replay restricting temp to prevent cotton burn.
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5 minutes ago, mactavish said:
Ok, so it’s my mistake in misinterpreting your earlier post. You like to use REPLAY in the mode it was intended for, WATTS mode. I have a profile setup for that, and in the “materials” drop down in Escribe, it’s set for WATTS. You have your reasons why you don’t believe it’s appropriate to use REPLAY in a TC mode where one sets the temperature. I’m playing with both, there is no 3rd option/workaround, so now we are clear, and I apologize for my misunderstanding of your earlier post.
I probably should of worded it differently. We got there in the end !!
Best of luck, regardless how you use replay, temp control whatever as long as it's enjoyable that's what's important.
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43 minutes ago, mactavish said:
I’m only confused in your earlier post where you said: “If you activate replay mode while temp protection is disabled, replay can now begin governing power delivery without temp control interrupting and getting in the way.” I now assume you are talking about profiles, and not trying to turn OFF TP in the mod, which is possible, and a bit unpredictable. So we are back to the beginning. Two ways to use REPLAY, in WATTS mode, with TP OFF, in the Escribe profile which should be obvious to most. And REPLAY with a TC profile where you set the temperature, and let Replay do the computing.
I guess I misunderstood your earlier post, that you were using a 3rd technique. The confusion is how we are using the term TP.
"3rd technique" is simply using replay with a coil material selected so the board can monitor temp.
Using temp control & replay at the same time defeats the purpose in my opinion.. one you set by taste the other by temp - they essentially do the same thing by trying to meet conditions set by you.
If your using replay WITH temp control active, replay is going to try replicate your saved puff - temp control is going to kick in and limit it. Replay adapts, temp control is strict.
You mentioned if you disable temp control on your temp profile it's super hot vape - most likely active preheat/boost settings applied on that profile come to think of it.
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11 minutes ago, mactavish said:
I don’t have to be in Escribe to turn TP = OFF. That setting is available in the theme I’m using. I’m just trying to duplicate your theory that one can use REPLAY in a TC profile, but with TP = OFF, if that’s NOT your theory, I’m sorry, and don’t understand what you are doing. For me to go any further, please tell me exactly what modes and settings you are using and then I’ll try and duplicate it.
That's right.. in themes we refer to the setting as "temp protection" in escribe the exact same setting is referred to as "temprature".
What makes the wattage profile a wattage profile is disabling this option.. so by you saying your getting difference experiences while this option is disabled on what you consider your temp control profile compared to your wattage profile makes no sense because by disabling "temp protection" your turning your temp control profile into a wattage profile.
Hopefully that makes sense... if your still confused - plug your device into escribe so you can compare both your profiles in real time and you'll see exactly what I'm saying... turn off "temp protect" on your device and plug your device in.. then disconnect your device turn on "temp protect" and plug your device back in and re-download the settings"..
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6 minutes ago, mactavish said:
Tried this as an experiment. Using a SS TC profile, with REPLAY ON. My SET TEMP = 465F, (in the theme I’m using, I can set the Watts for TC in “settings” = 40w). Vape is good, Replay works. Same coil, REPLAY now in WATTS mode, SET to 25 watts, works the same.
Now, turn TEMP PROTECT = OFF. Back to original “SS TC profile, with REPLAY ON. My SET TEMP = 465F”, vape is TOO HOT. Back into settings, to reduce wattage to 25 watts, now vapes similar to the other tests above.
I think doing TC with REPLAY with TP = OFF, while possible, is just adding more complexity to an already complex formula. I don’t see any plus differences in my vape, while adding more settings to go through. While Evolv could clarify this, I doubt they will comment. Their current stance is REPLAY was designed for wattage mode, with a TC compatible coil, and can work with a temperature control profile, again with the correct TC coils. I’m sure there are odd variations of these combinations, but they should be deemed “user experiment”, like I just did. But hey, if it’s working the way you like, then that’s the bottom line. After my quick experiment, I’ll stick with the two most common implementations of REPLAY in TC and WATTS.
Sorry that makes no sense to me to be honest... if you disable temp protection/temp in escribe your pretty much in WATTS mode.. "temp protection" is what the setting is referred to on the device / "temperature" is what that exact same setting is referred to on escribe.
I think what your experiencing is a placebo effect... because by disabling temperature in escribe you've literally setup a duplicate/new "wattage" mode - the only difference is you have selected a wire material so the board can measure temp.
Compare the "wattage" or "watts" profile on escribe to your SS316 while temp protection is disabled and it will all make sense.
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6 hours ago, iambyrdman said:
Good question. I've wondered why Temperature doesn't get reported. Might be why, now I just need to find the setting...
You can toggle temp protection by toggling "temperature" on escribe under profiles.
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Not sure if I would call this a bug, however I have noticed that all the temp fields (last puff temp, last puff peak temp, recordings temp etc.) return null if temp protection is disabled.
You can still see the temp ramp up either on the device graph or using device monitor, meaning the board is still actively monitoring... so why disable these fields ?
I don't want to use temp protection, although still want temp to be reported back on my screen.. I would rather replay take care of the temp control instead of setting a hard limit.
I would really appreciate if these fields were active all the time regardless if temp protection was enabled while using temp sensing wire..
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Is there ANY actual current documentation ANYwhere??
in EScribe, Software and Firmware
Posted
Save the last puff I believe.