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iambyrdman

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Posts posted by iambyrdman

  1. I agree with most, if not everything.  Perspective is everything.  I really do try to use a different one every day.  I have 2 Paranormal 250Cs to add to the mix to make 10.  I had a set of 6 USBs that I lost, for some reason, don't even remember how now....  They don't all stay charged all the time, not by a long shot. And I use them for other stuff too.  At my bar I hang out at all day... Most have built in 21700 pairs without sleds, permanent like.  I have a 3D printer now, I should just print some sleds how I want them!

     

    Thanks for all you wise insight and wisdom!  You are awesome, smart too...

    Bought this for now, easy...

    https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-60W-6-Port-Wall-Charger/dp/B0773K737F

  2. 52 minutes ago, drjohnson61 said:

    I'm surprised it didn't blow the USB port or the entire motherboard! Unless they are built in LiPo, I would use a battery charger and I wouldn't use my PC to Charge, Just For Upgrading.

     

    I only used the computer for 1 to see if it was connecting.  I built a 100 watt 5 volt box for this and other projects.

    • Like 1
  3. I'm using a 5 volt 20 Amp block I built and I didn't pug all 8 in at 1 time to test.  I just plugged 1 into a widows machine to see it would chime when I plugged it in to tell me a connection is being made.  As I said, it was but not charging, why?

    Is that ok?  100 Watt charge block?  5 Volts at 2 Amps (10 watts) each when charging, right?  Thank you for your wisdom, I understand.

    But anyway....

    Back to the original question.  Does the DNA board need more than the red and black wire in a usb cord to charge? Yes or no is a good start...

  4. I have 8 DNA 250C Setups and want to keep them all charged.  So I took 8 USB cables and spliced the Red and Black wires.  When I plug one into a Windows Machine it tells me something is connected but they do not charge.  Does the DNA board need 1 or more of the data lines?

     

    I'd sell most any if you want one!  I don't need 8!!!

    2020-01-28 09.03.42.jpg

    2020-01-28 09.06.18.jpg

  5. On 8/11/2019 at 2:31 PM, Wayneo said:

    I thought you were already a Pizza guy, fancy coil builder, and eBay mod seller?

    You pay attention well!  Officially, I own 3 businesses in the state of Ohio and have Art hung in 3 States.  I stay busy, makes me feel important or something.  I ned to find someone with a CNC machine  is all.  I would love to build one with mounting posts mounted to the inside for no screws on the outside or epoxy in.

  6. Bottom line, does not replay.

     

    Kind of strange how the single (but not double) will give a 'Save' while in replay.  But does not seem to work with a Nickel coil setting.  So I figured SMOK did like others and used something else for the leads.  So I took one apart and cut off the leads to use the mesh in a mesh RDA.  But replay does Not give a 'Save'.  Go figure...

     

    Ohms turned out being 0.163.

    2019-08-11 12.50.38.jpg

  7. 17 hours ago, retird said:

    The folks you are talking to may be referencing 100 watt pre-heat for the 75C board.... I'm guessing that is what they are saying... here is yet another video...

     

    So it will only pre heat with 100 watts?  Not continuous?

     

    Again, not that it matters because I still can't get it apart.... 

  8. I’m Building a 4 battery pack (2S2P) but I don’t know where to connect the leads.  One from positive, one from negative and one from between each two cells. (like the picture on the left? https://forums.mtbr.com/attachments/lights-night-riding/1003861d1437632257-review-4-2s2p-6-cell-2s3p-hardshell-waterproof-bicycle-battery-packs-gb-lipowiring-1.jpg) Where does each go on the board?  And correct me if I’m wrong and I guess this answers were negative goes, but the last 3 pins would be connected together as ground, right? 

  9. On 11/20/2018 at 5:02 PM, iambyrdman said:

    I just bought a spot welder, too bad that wouldn't work because I love how good it works on batteries!  Actually, maybe tack a piece of nickle to the board.  Those nickle strips Drink Solder!   I wonder....

    I got it to work out... My iron does get even Too hot and I am using lead free.

    I didn't try spot welding this time but the idea makes me want to try it next time.  So wish me luck on a quick sale.  I'll list it on eBay for $300.

  10. I know how to Solder!  But I have built 2 other devices and now I'm on a third I plan on selling am am having the same problem I did on the first two.  The Evolv board just does not want to except solder properly.  I get a little on the iron tip and drag it across and it looks like it's bonding.  However just a touch of pressure a it pops right off.  Nothing attached to the board.

    When I search for, "Cold Solder" I'm not the first person to bring it up, except the results are usually after the build is finished and they're having technical problems.

    What gives?  Anyone else see this?  It's frustrating.  Fire button takes just fine and so does the balance.  It's just the 4 primary flat connections.

    I just bought a spot welder, too bad that wouldn't work because I love how good it works on batteries!  Actually, maybe tack a piece of nickle to the board.  Those nickle strips Drink Solder!   I wonder....

  11. 3 hours ago, Wayneo said:

    Alrighty, can you do one last printscreen while taking a puff. Using the mod in that last Printscreen (ByrdBuild#2). Same atty and coil used there. Using your Profile 7 like in the PS, but ONLY with these checkboxes ticked.

    Seems even more out of hand than last try.  Why isn't it stopping at set temperature?

    1056597472_Screenshot2018-08-1317_11_10.thumb.jpg.e8da1eea05d6b3f8cab822793cd592f1.jpg

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