DogMods

Looks like the cells may have dropped too low to trigger the full charge current. In that Device Monitor window try doing Diagnostics > Advanced > Perform USB Recovery Charging. Some people have had luck using an external lipo balance charger to bring the packs back, but that's not for everyone, especially if you have a device warranty. Either way, that is lower than I am normally comfortable with a pack getting, but you should be okay as long as the pack doesn't puff or anything. edit: I saw that you were already doing a recovery charge, sorry for the pointless advice.

Uh oh! Bummer, I have like 3 or 4 chips here that are sans screens and could have used a few.

Both mods still going strong. Historically if they were going to pop the fuses they would have done so by now. Thinking this is now resolved. The issue was either a nearby component shorting or a atty short issue through the ground pads.

I wouldn't trust it, especially since pressure is involved. I've had things short right through the stuff with a light amount of pressure, I wouldn't want to hedge my bets on something nut/bolted.

How can I get a handful of replacement screens? Is there a electronics parts vendor with them anywhere with the specific setup and ribbon the DNA is using? I have looked for part number MI12832DO but have not had much luck. Failing this, how much are they through Evolv?

First day of the fix still going strong....

Board is now completely insulated from the standoffs and enclosure, and there are no conductive materials around the mounting holes now. Did this on Mod 1 and Mod 2, so hopefully this will resolve it. Will be delivering the mods back later today.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Cosel/PBA1500F-12/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsPs3th5F8koMdmNRcX8UdIkKh46IJzk6xYI%2ff6%2fXG47A%3d%3d

Nut and screw or just nut?[/QUOTE] Just nuts, the screws shouldn't ever be an issue I don't think. I am thinking the nuts are touching something nearby.

Small update, I have ordered some Nylon mounting hardware to see if that resolves the issues as they seems to be mounting relating.

Repairing "Mod 1" now and am going to put Kapton around each standoff and see if that resolves the issue.

Updating the OP, "Mod 1" just blew its second fuse.

Sorry, I don't think I was clear enough, I meant to actually create a short while the mod is actively firing. IE, fire the mod, as it is producing vapor THEN short the atty. I am not sure if this would be enough to split second pop the fuse or not.

This is massively helpful. I was planning to do this tonight. Did you try it while it the mod was firing? IE laying screwdriver across the atty posts, etc?

Semi Finished!!

Hi Ken! Thank you for this idea, I think it would help many others! I actually did mill my layout into a flat plate, and fixture the chip in both directions to examine my mounting. As far as I could tell nothing was shorting anything nearby with my hardware size.

This is great info, and definitely a possible cause! I was saying that my theory was possibly that while firing, if an atty were to short, the split second short could be possibly popping the fuse. Again, I don't know about the inner workings or if this could even be possible, just a theory based on what I have observed.

Hi everyone, I have been having an issue popping what I consider to be an abnormal amount of on board fuses. I love the chipset so far, think its great, but I'd like to get to the bottom of this. I am open to any feedback, ideas, etc. I am thinking my issue may be similar to what the Opus is experiencing lately as my board mounting solution grounds the board to the enclosure, and thus the 510. So far, the only thing I can think of is that this is being caused by Atty shorts which occur for a split second and pop the fuse, but I may be totally wrong. In an attempt to rectify this I am also going to start flowing a small amount of insulating epoxy around the base of any wires to ensure they are not moving a bit or causing a short. Again, I love the chip, not knocking it. I am simply trying to provide purely facts of what I am experiencing and am open to the idea that there is even something I could be doing wrong. I will go ahead and record my instances here, and update the OP just for the sake of tracking anything I come across. Fuse Trip Instances: 1. First prototype test mod, worked great for about a week and a half and then just stopped, verified blown fuse. 2. Next day after replacing the above fuse, it popped again. I put a new board in the mod and it is has been fine since. The other board had the fuse replaced and it is now in another prototype mod and working fine. I later identified the atty I was using had a failing insulator which gives my atty short idea some weight, but I find it strange it would be popping the fuse. 3. Saturday I delivered two mods to a local shop owner, and employee, lets call them Mod 1 and Mod 2. Monday the fuse on Mod 1 pops. I replaced the fused, rewired the board, and tried my epoxy idea around the wires. It has been fine since. 4. Tuesday the fuse on Mod 2 pops. Most of the time when a fuse pops it can still connect via USB and power up, detect, etc. This was not the case here, this chip will not detect, and a replacement fuse does nothing. It is completely dead. 5. I had a mod of the same color finished and gave that back to the customer to replace Mod 2. Today (Thursday) it randomly dies again, and I go pick it up. Again, this board is completely dead with no USB activity, and a replacement fuse does nothing. 6. 8/14 "Mod 1" just blew its second fuse randomly.

PM Sent =D

Had some enclosures OD Green Cerakoted to match the Ammo Can. Did a really nice Black Nylon sleeve job for each mod. This stuff is really soft, but hard to sleeve lengths of wire that long with. . First test, IT LIVES! Will need to move the screen cutout over just a tad on the next one. Easy self indexing screen mount:

What up man! Fancy seeing you here.

I will have to keep an eye on this thread. I am inexplicably blowing fuses left and right as well and use a hard mount like the Opus with conductive fasteners. I would reply on that to ground to the 510 if needed, but I don't. I am starting thing that something having to do with this is causing the fuses to pop. Interesting.

No problem, thanks for looking!

Working on the Connectors, these are twist locking plugs with dust caps for when they are not in use. The wire throughout is heavy 10 gauge, in addition to the pins on the plugs being 10 gauge. Connectors all wired and installed: I wanted to add a master on/off switch, and was at first going to use just a latching button. Then I had the idea that maybe if one of these are sitting in a shop the owner would like to "disable" it if they are away without having to completely break it down or move it. That's where these came in: Bam! Master On/Off key and latching pushbutton, and some fancy engraving because I thought it was cool.

Hi everyone, I wanted to share something I was working on with you all, I hope this forum is the best place to do so as it seemed to fit best here. I've had an idea floating around in my head for quite some time now, and when the DNA 200 finally released it seemed like the perfect board to make it happen. Big fan of Evolv being a local Ohioan myself and will gladly support a local company. Didn't get into the DNA40 much, but been having a blast with the 200. This will be a work in progress post, but here is what I have so far. I want to turn a .50 Cal ammo can I had laying around into a semi portable VapeStation /Passthrough display. All said and done this "mod" will support five wired DNA200's in A boxes. A lot of people have asked me who this is for, and honestly, no one. Maybe some shops or convention going businesses would want one, and in that case I would be happy to build to order. Mainly I just thought it would a fun project, and something cool to have to take around to local shops. I think it would also be a great addition to working with a vendor to sell my mods at a Convention with the added incentive of getting to run it at their booth for a weekend. So the above pic is what I started with. The first order of business was to mill out a plate to hold all of the rear components, mod plugs, AC in, and fans to move some of the hot air generated by the power supply out of the Ammo can. Here it is bolted up to the can: More to come as I upload more pics and continue working on it.