John
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Posts posted by John
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Hcigar doesn't get any special pricing other than the same quantity discounts we offer everyone. On top of that, China imposes a 20% import duty on electronics brought into the country. So a domestic manufacturer already starts out ten bucks ahead of China.
I will say we did refuse to sell to hcigar specifically while they were being a shameless clone factory. We gave them an ultimatum that I did not expect to be accepted, namely stop selling clones and we will sell you boards directly. They had been purchasing DNA 40s through distributors. And they DID. There is more money in it for them to make real products using real components and build a brand.
One thing that I see over and over is a belief in what I call "China magic." As in "we will take this domestically made product, sprinkle some China magic on it, and it will be ten times cheaper all of a sudden. Nobody else will be able to compete. ha ha ha *evil capitalist cackle, fade to black*" That kind of thinking dominated big business decision making in the late 90s and early 2000s, but it is largely going away. China is great at some things, less great at others, but if you go you will see there is no magic. There are just miles and miles of people. Remember, we manufacture electronics in Ohio and sell them all over the world. People don't believe me sometimes, because they believe all electronics come from china, like all meat comes from the supermarket. It can be done.
I don't know how representative the posted price for this mod will be: I suspect that is closer to the wholesale price, but it is not out of the realm of possibility to make a device, domestically, for that, even retail, if you are willing to do it automated enough and in big enough volume for small enough margins. Here at Evolv the margins come down every generation, but the volume goes up. That is the nature of an industry that is maturing from an obscure niche to a meaningful slice of the economy.
And this matters to the high volume manufacturers in this country. The artisanal mod makers? Not a lick. An Hcigar DNA 200 mod takes sales away from isticks and vt60s, not expensive objects of ecigarette art.
Now this next point may not be popular, but I will make it anyway. We will do our damndest to support all genuine DNA containing devices, regardless of country of origin. Can someone in this country who has built their mod making business on support give the best customer experience? Unquestionably. Will we fix problems that have nothing to do with our board in a poorly built low cost mod? No, talk to the manufacturer. But neither do we fix problems with battery doors or sticking actuator caps or surface finish on high end devices.
I love all my e-cigarette children, no matter the skin color or language of their other parents. -
Okay start an RMA ticket and we will get a new one out to you asap.
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We will sell them in some fashion sooner or later, but right now my highest priority is get the existing boards and mods running 100% reliably.
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With the reference case, what we do is use vhb tape to stick the extra screen whip to the underside of the screen, away from the fire button.
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Well, do you know any programming languages? It is just plain text serial, so very easy to bash together a quick program to do whatever you need.
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The screen would be a bit of a trick: it talks both ways to a certain degree, so if two screens were responding, the processor would probably get confused. Two outputs wouldn't cause much hardship. If both had atomizers attached and they weren't matched, then temperature control wouldn't work, but otherwise that half of the plan would work fine. As long as the wire lengths match, you can use a mod resistance setting to compensate for the extra wire.
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Yes, it is probably the curve. Or the actual loaded watt hours. You are running the most recent firmware?
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If you are going to replace it yourself, use two soldering iron or hot tweezers to heat both sides and lift the fuse off. Pretty easy if you do that. Pretty hard if not.
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Oh man, that is EXCELLENT news.
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It is really hard for me to diagnose whether board-killing issues are mod specific or board specific without the mods with problems in hand. But I also don't want to hold the mods hostage without recompense like I am with several opuses. For people with new and novel failure modes that seem to be mod specific, like the hanas wih screen issues, would any of you like to trade me for a Evolv reference mod? We didn't have fuse or screen issues with those during the beta. (Other issues, sure, but never fuses or screens) We have a couple dozen we could swap this week if there are that many takers. Pm me if interested.
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Well, first try cleaning the area up with some running alcohol and a q tip. See if that makes it stop autofiring. If so, then yes. If not we will need to dig deeper.
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Those aren't that different, really. Either should get you within a few degrees of correct.
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Okay, if you look at the very top edge between the out pad and the ground pad, there is an octagonal little cicle of copper.The bottom half of the green soldermask is rubbed off. There.
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Well, for real simple stuff there is a terminal built into Escribe...
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You need to run case analyzer and get your thermal coefficients for it to be right. Once you have done that it should be pretty bang on.
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Gah! Never chalk them up as losses. Send them back, get a replacament and make them our losses, at least. But autofiring should be pretty easy to diagnose and fix, as it is only one pin into the micro.
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Oh wow, that is a strange display bug. The thing that says 3 cell should be a drop down. I bet it works if you click on it.
Is this windows 8 or 10? -
Just for the meter. It doesn't have to be exact as long as it is generally correct.
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Well, I won't speak ill of our manufacturers, other than I wish Hana was using a less ubderspecced connector.
Really, I should have made more clearance around the mounting pads and less places that an incidental short or bump will kill the board. Even at cost of making the board a bit bigger. So that is on me as much as anybody else.
Whatever the causes or true incidence, I would trade all the praise in the world for a lower rate of early mortalities on these. Because it really is an awesome board when it isn't dead. -
If it is opus specific, it is either the extremely tight/chew through the mounting holes screws or the standoffs.
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It is a drop down, click on it and change it to 2s. On the mod tab.
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How many of these most recent early mortalities were during active use, versus on wake from sleep (not being used or charged for over an hour)?
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Yeah, yours is definitely not talking to the analog front end. Is your cell 3 tap solid, and the resistors closest to the USB connector on the right?
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That's okay, I know what general batch it was from with the information provided
Power Off Option
in EScribe, Software and Firmware
Posted
Abbreviating the power off to hard sleep sequence will have negative consequences for refinement, temperature modelling and cold resistance when you wake back up.
In a TSA situation, as soon as the screen is off, how much more off can they possibly want it? Pressing the fire button will wake it back up (with the wrong initial resistance) anyway.
The DNA 20 and DNA 30 never powered off. Ever. They were always on in a sleep state no matter how long you left them, unless the battery ran down below 3.0 volts.
The DNA 200 is sleeping the vast majority of the time in the hour between screen off and hard power down anyway.
If there was a meaningful upside, I could see looking at it. But what's the advantage?