John
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Posts posted by John
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We could of course make a 3 cell buck boost DNA 200, but it would be bigger, more expensive, and you can't realistically get more than 80-90 watts out of an 18650 anyway without making the cell life terrible.
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It is 133 watts not 130.
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There are fixturing holes for just such a frame on the board, if someone feels enterprising.
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Hi Rick,
We checked some more boards, and it turns out that some of them just... do... that. The analog front end is speced for 3 to 6 cells (but also down to 4 volts total), so spurious readings on cell 3 while running it with two aren't shocking.
Anyway, we increased what it calls acceptable for the third cell up to 1.5 volts, and posted it in the 8-7 firmware in the Early Firmware thread. That should make yours work without further problems. -
You can mask or machine off anodize.
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Oh I get ya. Showing the startup screen completely makes sense as a reason to power it off.
But that would be much easier to add as an option in Escribe to just show the startup screen if activated after a certain amount of time, powered off or not.
We can make it show whatever screen whenever with minimal difficulty. -
If you run all three pads, and make sure that the geometry of the case grounding bosses matches up with the pads on the board, and you avoid corrosion related issues, then there is more than plenty of current carrying capacity in a metal aluminum case.
You might want to do a (Rohs, trivalent not hexavalent!) chromate conversion on the pads if you were in production. -
Tom your beta unit should have gone out today.
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It saves the settings (temperature, power, all that stuff) from memory to flash as part of its power down sequence about an hour after you last use the device. If you disconnect before this has happened, you will lose your changes.
Not sure that's the ideal way to do it with swappable batteries, but that is how we do it at present. -
Can you screenshot where you're talking? A number of people have 3d printed the reference case, including myself.
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A small relay would work swimmingly.
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The entire 510 just screws in, it is an M18-.75 thread.
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Well it won't read ohms with the fuse blown, and we handle atomizer shorts explicitly, so those shouldn't pop fuses. Shouldn't isn't the same as "certainly didn't" but output shorts are considered part of normal operation.
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There are a lot of micro USB cables that are charge only. That'd be the first thing I would try. USB had to work at Hana for them to load the newest firmware onto the device, and had to work here to get through the programming and test cycle (though that tests the board, not the connector), so the board has talked to a computer at least twice in its life before it gets to you.
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That's on the list to do, it just takes more doing than other screens because you'll have to define the areas to overwrite with the text.
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Oh no, I didn't do it board side. I did it on the tap connector on the pack side. Mine switches between 2s and 3s just fine and shows .02V on cell 3, but that could just be mine for all I know. I'll try a couple more boards today and see if I can get the same one cell high behavior.
The reason it looks at cell 3 at all is we don't want to get people into a bad situation if they should just happen to plug a 3s battery with a damaged third cell into the board with it set for 2s. But where the cutoff should be is going to be a function of where all the boards read the phantom cell.
We'll get you working one way or another. -
I don't think the arduino nano has host USB.
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Red and black wires are cheaper than colors, maybe? I've seen this before, and the picture is correct. In every pack I have ever seen with one red and the rest black, red would go to the tap labelled "3"
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It is discharging to balance.
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That's wired properly. The question is why you're seeing .6 volts on cell 3.
It won't fire as a 2 cell unless it is reading less than .1 volts. SO that's the problem.
I'll post a picture of my extremely hacked together 2s tapped battery box (made from a hana battery box, a vaporshark battery box and a lot of hot glue) in a bit.
I did jump the connection right at the tap connector, rather than running two wires all the way back to the battery, but that shouldn't make that much of a difference. Obviously it is getting the two cell voltages that are actually there correct.
Its either some sort of subtle wiring difference or we just need to widen out what it will call "no cell" in the firmware. -
The battery ties to the fuse, you shouldn't blow it by soldering the wire to it.
What kind of setup were you running? high ohms? low ohms? High watts? low watts?
Anything different when it blew compared to how you had been running? Setup? Mechanical? Dropped?
The wiring looks perfect to me, and it is't likely that you can short to case because your case looks 3d printed. -
We put this option on the to do list for an upcoming update, but it will probably be a week or two.
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We can't edit the upload setting screen... that is hardcoded into the firmware, because you don't have settings while you are uploading them, so there would be nowhere to load the image from...
I hope that makes sense. It is also the screen that displays if your settings are incorrect or corrupted. -
Yeah, we broke get information in the last update. We have it fixed now, so it'll work again in the next one.
3d Model - DNA 200 for SolidWorks 2014
in Manuals, Instructions, and Tutorials
Posted
Oh. Those. Those are actually supposed to be there, in that it gives sufficient clearance for the tap when they are machining. The other two are on the back case at the bottom around the screw holes. They aren't geometry errors as such.