DannyK9
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Posts posted by DannyK9
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Podunk Steam said:
More of a question than anything but may the zinc alloy case and press fit looking brass 510 be creating an issue. some metals just don't mix well and what I know as galvanic response could be playing in.
Anybody run a case test on the VT yet?
Edit: I failed to mention the brass 510 center pin that is chrome plated. Not exactly built to spec anyway.
MIne was a custom wooden floris box - Forgot to mention that -
XenonRam said:
Turn the brightness setting up for the display issue
it really is as simple as that[/QUOTE] Thanks, but that's crazy that you can't adjust the brightness without messing something up? By the sound of your prompt concise answer that this is a known, common, problem. Why has this not been resolved!?! I'll let you know if it helps as soon as I try it out. Thanks again, XenonRam[/QUOTE]
It's well documented here in the early adaptors forum, i had the same issue but saw the same issues raised ny other people.
For some strange reason i think the default is 0% on the brightness - moved mine up to 75% and the screens change to what i've set them too.
Downside - When charging the display never goes out
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My one died 48 hours ago, using Ni200
Preheat 200W
Coil - 0.15 - 0.18 ohm
Temp - 450
Watts - 30
Been sent back to modder to investigate -
XenonRam said:
I GET THAT problem when I use my USB 2.0 port. When I tried it in my USB 3.0 port, it started working perfectly. I wasn't getting it as bad as you, but it would happen about 50% of the time. Also upgrading new settings to the mod took about 2-2.5 minutes with the USB 2.0, but using the USB now takes only about 12 seconds, and I don't get anymore errors. Try using a USB 3.0 port. If you don't have one, try a different USB 2.0 port; or if you're using a desktop, go buy a $10 USB 3.0 card and pop it in. Also make sure you're using the thick cable that came with the mod. Others won't work. Also you have to remember, you're dealing with Chinese made $hi+ (It wouldn't let me post with the actual word I wanted to use. LOL. I thought that vaping was for adults only, so why is this forum censored? I hope it doesn't turn out like ECF.) on both accounts; the cable AND the mod. So maybe source another high current capable USB cable, and make sure it is a charge AND data cable because a lot of high current cables are charge only. My problem is that I have the charge screen settings to show battery percentage, pack voltage, and USB current. When I plug it in (either a USB 2.0, USB 3.0, or a 2.4A wall wart), the battery bar shows the lightning bolt indicating charging, but the display doesn't switch to the charge screen data settings; it continues to show the resistance, the total mAh capacity of the batteries, and temperature. (My non-charging screen settings.) It does show the lightning bolt in the battery bar, and it is indeed actually charging, but the screen doesn't change; no matter how long I wait. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, can you recommend a fix?
Turn the brightness setting up for the display issue it really is as simple as that
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patrickgavin1983 said:
Been searching for answers and submitted a ticket. Have had my hcigar vt200 for roughly a week, it was running fine then the next morning after getting to work it just decided to turn off. Will turn on when plugged into a usb plug but only if its plugged in... My guess is the board has taken a dive.. any suggestions or advice would be great.
It will be the fuse - Small green thing next to B+ input, see if it has white line/s on it.
USB powers the board as the USB is after the fuse. You cant rub the DNA of USB power only though.
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Had exactly the same issue yesterday, been working flawless for weeks then just pop.
In my case ;
Ni200 - 0.15ohm
Preheat - 200w
Temp - 450
It had been running this for around a week with no issues and then pop - Fuse Blown
Checked escribe last night - Batts were balanced and pack voltage was above nominal 11.8V
Cant see an obvious reason for why but i did see some other thread regarding some hCigar ones going pop with Ni builds.
Sending mine back to the modder for a new fuse, good job i kept a crappy old M80 for emergency use - People always slate the cheaper chinese stuff but hey ive not had one go wrong yet in 2 years
DNA 200 ? Faulty within 2 months -
These user needs to do one
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It would appear the forum has been hacked ?
Bloody Spam -
Even with a blown fuse they should communicate with escribe, I've also been using Ni200 @ 0.12-0.23 with 200w preheat for about 3 weeks with no issue however mine is a custom box. Maybe the issue is HCigar ? Seems to be the only common link in your issue. Do you have any pics of build particularly the wiring and chip itself
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Same issue I had
software works in Wine but doesn't communicate.
Ended up bootcamping -
blueridgedog said:
I think it is time to open sub boards for each DNA200 mod out there so common issues to those mods may be identified or grouped. This would mean a parent thread for Vendor Mods, then sub threads for each mod. Just a suggestion.
Right now, all the "I have ABC mod it it is doing 123" are pooling up in "report a bug".
Great shout, makes sense to me -
Sounds like a daft reply but do you know for certain the other ohm readers are accurate ? You could lock the ohms when it reaches 0.14 In general most ohm meters and devices I've dabbled with are almost always out by 0.1 .2 its no big dealsig-cmt said:Pop on cold atty which reads 0.14 across multiple ohm meters. DNA 200 invariably reads this as 0.16. Fifteen minutes later, the reading drops to 0.15 and it is only after a few hours of sleep and refinement when the correct reading of 0.14 is reached. Is this normal? 510 threads and pins on both the device and atty are confirmed clean (visually and by way of cleanings with DeOxit D-Series). What are some best practices for obtaining accurate cold resistance readings in the shortest amount of time?
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Would this not make the atomiser extremely hot ? It would work in theory but I'm sure most of these guys use heat sink boards with resistors for this reason.Nordic Ravn said:Its a simple test but you need the proper time. Just make 1ohm coil with fully charged batteries and let it run until batts goes down. Then you have the results.
Tonight i ll give my try and come with a file. -
Mine shows charging after about 2 seconds, I find if I hit the fire button though it interrupts the charging and then comes back after a couple of seconds. If I hit a +/_ button it doesn't effect it. Got mine set to First Line - Ohm Second Line - USB Output Third Line - Wh The battery charging icon stays the same regardless unless you set custom screens AFAIK
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Xx3dge said:
It's 2500 and 11.1v not 3.7
Fresh of the charger they would be 2500 @ 12.6V
Not 11.1V -
Spirometry said:
Looks normal to me.
Your raw ohms is the total resistance (wiring, mod and atomizer)
The Kanthal ohms is your raw ohms minus your mod resistance. Looks like you haven't set a mod resistance.
The Temp ohms is the raw ohms minus your mod resistance then adjusted to a reference temperature of 70°.
Your vape temp is running around 325°, it is too low to be accurate. Make sure both atty and mod are cold before attaching them together. Your coil resistance is so low it would be to your advantage to enter a mod resistance value. You will have less margin of error if you can get your coil resistance up some.
I'd love to get the resistance up some, however when running a dual vertical sleeper in Ni200 it gets a bit angry with the higher temps
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In the atomiser analyser if you look next to kanthal ohms it says the temp (ni200) ohms.. You can also change the preheat if you want too? I'm not sure why your asking? What are you having problems with? it would be better if you posted screen shots of the graph rather than excel format although everything looks fine I don't know exactly what I'm looking for?[/QUOTE]Gm111 said:[QUOTE=DannyK9]Apologies if this has been asked before
Could someone take a look a few screenshots / csv files to see if this is normal
This is a Ni200 build yet the atomizer analyser says (kanthal) ? is this correct ?
Also Preheat is set to 200 (Default) ?
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
It's not a problem as such - was just confused as to why it said (kanthal) but i now realise it also says (Temp) with ohms.
if running Ni200 you dont really need to see the Kanthal ohms and vice versa if running Kanthal you dont need to see the Temp ohms.
Im guessing it was easier for Evolv to program it that way.
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dwcraig1 said:
Does the battery icon have the charge symbol when it's balancing, does it show any amperage? How long does it take? Should I keep it on charge for a couple of days?
It was similar to this so I changed the battery. I tried to balance this battery and the original battery with the cheap charger that comes with the Hotcig mod, all it does is overcharge the "good" cells.![[image]](https://scontent.fsan1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/12191770_1099476673409889_9044427112978112563_n.jpg?oh=2b157e22a2f09f1ad5b713d78bf8c3a0&oe=56F0BF0D)
It stops charging when 1 and 2 reach 4.20 volts, or I think it does.
As far as i'm aware it always balance charges, lipos are supposed to be balanced charged.
If you hook it up to escribe you can trace the charge amount of each battery and monitor, you can also change the DNA screen to show charging rate, voltage, pack voltage.
I think anyway, someone more clued up will be along soon no doubt to assist further.
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grissomma said:
When I initially set up VB, everything was working flawlessly. Within the last week my host will not recognize my device as Evolv DNA 200 USB, it will connect and charge however. I'm not a smart man, I have restarted and reset my PRAM/SMC and I just can't get it to work anymore. Any tips or ideas? Edit: Like I said I'm not a smart man. Tried to use a charge cord for data, this doesn't work.
if you plug your DNA into the Mac does OS-X recognise it as a DNA ?
I had similar issues when running escribe in Wine, ended up going down the bootcamp route. -
Working fine for me on Win 10 - X64 Single Language Edition / Un Activated (Bootcamped Mac Pro Retina - El Capitan) and Win 8 - X32 Pro (Crappy Lenovo Thinkpad)
Just a thought I did have an innitial problem with ecig stats hanging when first used on the Thinkpad maybe try disabling that. -
When I first got my DNA200 it was set on 8wh which I thought was low for a 1400 3S so I done the maths and calculated it was 15.4wh so I set it to that, escribe also calculated this amount. However it doesn't seem to last any longer than when it was at 8wh, only difference being a slightly lower build. So I've no idea, as it stands I get around 12 hours vaping moderately at 30W is this good ? I suppose so.
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I dont see the need for an OS-X version to be honest, yes it would be nice but it does work in Parellels running Win 10 and also bootcamp running Win 10.
Agreed you might loose 25-30GB of HDD doing it this way but it does work.
P.S Did I mention you dont need Keys for Win 10 - JUst download the X64 ISO from Microsoft and skip the part where it asks for Key, it will prompt again when finilising installation but skip it, you will end up with Win 10 not activated but from what i can see fully functional for zero cost. -
VapingBad said:
I think you need to return it, if it was being seen by Escribe I would say check the fuse and a pinched screen cable, but those wouldn't stop Escribe seeing it. The heat can be caused by the charging current going going through the balance resistors next to the USB socket when the fues is blown so I guess that is part of your problem.
Normally would the screen not light up even with a blown fuse ?
Can I Vape at 100w all day on a 1850mAh LiPo?
in Batteries and Charging
Posted
I can easily get a day out of the nano-tech running a conservative 40W on a standard dual 0.5ohm build.