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Mikey

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  1. Glad you got it working well. Tanks on temp control have been hard for me to master, something always seems off. I might need to try lowering the temp that low as well.
  2. Do you have the drip tip vacuum set to off? The on setting is for flooding your coil if you did not prime it, the off setting is for vaping. You likely have excess juice on the coil for it to spit at ya. If that's not it, then play with your temp, watts, and airflow till you find the sweet spot.
  3. Woke up this morning to my 200 being a little sassy; screen was off and would display the welcome screen for a split second if I clicked the fire button. It would show both welcome screens then the menu if I held the button, but the battery meter showed it completely depleted. When I plugged it up, the total cell voltage was 12.1v, which is around where I left it last night, but the watt hour was less that 0.5. I had it mostly charged last night before going to bed, so I knew this wasn't right. Plugged it up to escribe and did a soft reboot; now the meter and watt hour are correct and all is functioning correctly. Odd little glitch, just wanted to post about it so it is known. I'll update my post if it happens again or if I have any other issues with this chip/battery.
  4. The "Temperature Protection" message is just to let you know that the coil has reached your set temperature. It is working as intended. If you don't want to see the message, you can disable it in escribe. You may not have noticed it earlier if you had your wattage set lower, where the coil wasn't quite reaching your desired temp.
  5. OooOooOooh spiffy, hopefully it gets worked out man. Good luck.
  6. I may be mistaken, but the charging thru on-board USB is limited to 1 amp. Your issue may be a result of charging over 1 amp. Does it still charge when plugged into a .5 or 1 amp wall brick or your computer USB? Can your back up battery pack charge at lower amperage?
  7. Back when mech mods were all the rage I saw a few custom lightsaber mechs; prolly 1:3 or 1:2 custom model. They looked nice and all but weren't the most pocket friendly mechs around. I could see this being more practical for use in a power supply vape station, as a wand with the chip and 510. Make a R2-D2 case for the PS or something funky. Would certainly be cool and could probably sell for a pretty penny to the right enthusiast. But good luck finding that person...
  8. If you can spring the extra money, go for one of the alpinetech CNC 1590b boxes. They are a little bit bigger and you'd be able to fit that battery with a little less worry. Still may have to shave a post off even with the CNC'd box. EDIT: Here are some tools that have helped me figure out what batteries to use. https://nonameboxmods.com/hect/hammond.html - gives you the sizes of all the hammond diecast boxes. http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/lithium_polymer_battery_configuration.asp - and then you can select your dimensions on this and find batteries that will fit. Hobbyking doesn't have all the Lipos on the market, but they have a good number of them.
  9. If you are using shelf pins for the button, I would figure some o-rings on them would help seal them up. Place the orings on the portion of the pin inside the case but outside the lip, if that makes sense. Would make it a tad more water resistant, I would think. Or a layer of liquid electrical tape? As for the screen, I'm gonna use just some cheapo screen protectors over the face of the screen and tape it all down snug to the case. Hopefully its tight enough for me. You may need more water resistance than I do, but I figure this will be good enough for now. I'm interested to see what others say, though. And custom silicone cases would be BADAAAASS, I'll have to look into that myself.
  10. I had some small luck finding some #0-80 1 inch spacers on Amazon, but at $25 bucks for a box of 20 I passed on them. Instead, I got a package of #0-80 nuts and some e-z lok thread inserts that I can jb-weld together, worse comes to worse. Check out the e-z loks, they are intended to be used as a threaded insert for plastic but I'm thinking they will work just fine. I'll post some pics up here once they arrive. Definitely a cheaper, easier option it seems... Hoping it works!
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