Darklyspectre

Well this is great. one shop sells the fuse separately but its a total of 30ish bucks including shipping. Another one sells by 10 but only ships to the UK. Seems like I am going lose 30 bucks over this damn fuse. I guess this teaches me not to touch with electronics. about using a car fuse. Do you mean something like this? It just has to be 25 amps right? Guess I will frankenstein the chip and turn it into a car mod haha.So what gauge wire should I use? Sorry for the double post but I just want to be sure if it works or il probably buy the schezer fuse.

I removed the board and removed all the leads since I need to redo the fuse anyway. But when I took it out I tried it again(the my dna picture was at that time) and still the same thing. Checked all the leads. positive and negative leads were secure and nothing was touching anything that it shouldn't touch. battery leads are solid too so is the balance charger. The button leads were good other than the negative fire button lead, it spun around abit but even then it couldn't touch anything that would cause a short. same scenario in the encasing. Nothing was touching anything. Hence why I am so confused to why the fuse blew. http://www.mouser.be/ProductDetail/Schurter/3413033222/?qs=tk5EcTX4n4yNf01GmJFMyw%3D%3D This is what I need right?

Then I don't know what it is. Definitely not reverse polarity frying the chip. I made sure to avoid that. I guess it's a mystery/freak accident.

mmm. I don't really have alot of space left judging by how it was setup. it was a pretty snug fit. don't think a fuse like that will fit.

Well it has been confirmed. Used some 32 gauge I had laying around to make a bridge thingy. Sparky spark and then the screen turned on. Letting go of the wire made it turn off. So I guess the fuse is indeed blown without it turning into ash haha. while I was fiddling with the wireI noticed that there was this covering ontop of the fuse came loose. Kinda looks like a see through plastic like thing. I am honestly surprised it blew. The wire is big enough. I never reversed the polarity. I used connectors that are high quality and can handle the amp loads. I work with my parents in the kitchen industry(selling and installing consumer kitchens) and I have installed so many cooktops that needed 5 wire connectors and the whole measuring out voltages to get it right. Wow it would just suck that I did something wrong with just two wires haha. Ah man this sucks. I had enough issues with soldering those wires for the buttons let alone that tiny fuse. But the chip was a darn dream while it worked. That is the weirdest thing too. it worked for like 15 hours and then just blew. Hell I wasn't even firing while it blew. I was unlocking the device. would a blown fuse prevent the chip from reading the cold ohms of an atomizer? my dna screenshot (that is Thursday and June in dutch)

so if I get it right you essentially want me to make an artificial bridge to see if power goes through?

Here you go. I got wires running from the board to a connector that we use in the store that then connects the battery. the connector is rated up to 400 volts/32 amps. already tried soldering the power leads together and still no good.

Mode = normal. right lower corner = none.

So yesterday my friend en I finished up building my DNA 200 mod. It worked great. emptied out the lipo. and let it charge overnight. it worked this morning but like a hour ago it just stopped working. No button works. Screen/mod won't turn on. Connected it to my PC. The mod turns on. Checked device monitor. Battery registers just fine. Voltage of the battery pack is what it should be. individual cells are balanced and USB is charging it. so the battery is fine. The mod registers the correct values for it. I checked the battery fuse on the board. that is fine too. But the moment I dare to unplug the USB the entire system just shuts down. I noticed that the chip won't register my atty anymore. just a question mark. Checked the connection to the board and those seems to be fine. exactly the way they were in the beginning. Tried downgrading and upgrading the firmware but it doesn't do anything either. I am honestly stumped. the battery connection is solid. the atty connection seems solid. The only thing that seems to have gone iffy is one lead of the fire button on the PCB. It kinda wobbles but it's pretty solid and can't touch any other leads. Even then at most that would cause a false button register. any idea what is going on?

Got one of these guys. Was originally going to go with a lifepo battery but the ones I wanted were all too big for the enclosure I was going to use. Unless I went with a small capacity one but I vape up 10.000mah worth of 18650s (2 sets of samsung r25s) in a day I don't think a 900-1000ish mah lifepo would last me long.