HugeEgo

You'll need an imaging editing program. If you already have Photoshop, you're set. If not, I suggest the open-source GIMP (it's free). MS Paint will be good enough for just doing Text screens. Basically, the final image that you upload to your mod has to be monochrome (black and white) as well as 128x32 in size. If text is all you're after, you can throw those together in a couple minutes. If you want to include images or logos, you'll need to do some editing, cropping, sizing, recoloring, etc.

It's the way forward for all software. All hail Linus Torvalds.

I don't do RDA's, mainly out of laziness. But I routinely build on my STM with a similar build to what you mentioned. I usually go about 7/8 wraps, 2.5mm ID, 26 GA. Comes to about 0.3?, which is exactly in line with steam-engine. I have a couple of other RTA's but the Subtank mini outperforms them all, even though it's a single coil. For instance, I just bought a Crius and the thing is a PITA to get wicked. It's either dry or flooding. No in between. I finally got it somewhat wicked OK, but it hits temp protection instantly and puts out less vapor than my STM, even though it is a dual coil. I may try a Chutulu or an Aromamizer next. Oh, and I prefer the original RBA deck on the mini. I find that dremeling the juice channels on the deck makes it perform better than the new RBA deck with the holes in the side (not to mention you can vape the tank lower). I wish Kanger would release an updated STM with maybe some cosmetic improvements. Because I try a lot of stuff and always come back to it.

At the expense of them selling you Grade 2 Ti wire at a dollar per foot. If that's your thing, so be it. But at least you don't have to clean it before use, I guess.

OP, the resistance difference between your coil and what steam engine says is what's causing the issue. Even that small of a difference in ohms will make a pretty noticeable difference in the temperature of the vape. I know Lightning Vapes just recently began carrying Ti wire, so I have no idea what quality of wire you're getting and whether it is truly CP Grade 1. I have no reason to assume LV is being dishonest or carrying low quality wire, but just throwing it out there as a possibility (see next paragraph). Another guy mentioned having problems with SweetSpot vapors wire. I will tell you that SSV's wire is NOT Grade 1 Ti. There is a PhD metallurgist over on ECF who has debunked their claims repeatedly. This is why SSV has to create their own TCR curve. I am not saying there's anything wrong with vaping their weird Ti alloy, but it is not CP Grade 1. And I certainly would not pay the price they charge for it. I use Ti from Unkamen supplies. He sources his wire for jewelry, but guarantees it is USA made and Grade 1. I prefer buying from a source that isn't in the vaping industry because typically there is less broscience and price gouging involved. Unkamen's Ti wire, for me, Ohms out to almost exactly what steam-engine says it should (every time, in every atomizer). Right now I have a dual coil in a Crius that reads (cold) at .168?. Steam engine says it should be .171. That's so close that the margin of error is probably in the leg length and coil spacing. In either case, it will not affect the accuracy. Your build, to me, looks fine. Assuming your atomizer isn't wonky and throwing off the readings, then I would have to assume there's something "different" about the wire you have.

OK, so I have a DNA200 coming in the mail today (excited) and want to get my ducks in a row. I realize the DNA200 charging board allows 1A max charging. My question is, would a 2A USB Samsung charger (made for my android tablet) be safe to use? Will the board limit it to 1A or do I need to specifically buy a 1A wall adapter? All I have on hand are .5A and 2A wall adapters (no 1A adapters lying around). I think the answer to this question needs to be in the FAQ, by the way.

Mooch (the authority on vaping batteries) said this about the MXJO 3000mAh: "In my opinion, this is only a decent performing 15A-20A continuous discharge current (CDR) high capacity cell. Its capacity is about 12% lower than the LG HG2 and it runs a few degrees-C hotter." At 10A, he got about 2700mAh out of it. At 20A, he got around 2500mAh. MXJO, like all rewrappers, lie about their specs. This battery is not 3000mAh nor is it 35A. it is basically a crappy version of the authentic LG HG2 (with less capacity and more heat).