gizman
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Posts posted by gizman
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14 minutes ago, steamer861 said:
I understand the numbers
It seems to me that a good 18650 (VTC5) would give as good or better Watt Hour rate as a Fully Max 950.
But in reality, with low ohm high watt vaping like I do, the Fully Max gives Me better performance & run time.
I find the same thing with the 4S 1000mAH lipo in my 250c. With my Vaping style the 4S 1000mAH will give me approximately the same run time as dual 18650's, even if the numbers would say different
Funny, I was going to say basically the same thing, that at over 75 watts or so I get much better than what the numbers say I should with a 3S or 4S lipo than I ever got at that wattage, even running VTC6's. Ironic that sometimes numbers DO lie
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6 minutes ago, steamer861 said:
Hi
It's 14.8 watt hours
Compare this to 10.5 watt hours with a FullyMax 950.
It's pretty good
I would say equivalent to dual 18650's,
Assuming 2600MaH dual 18650's, you would be looking at ~18.7 watt hours, 3000MaH dual 18650's would be roughly 21.6 watt hours, if you could find a 1300MaH 4S that would fit it would give you about 19.2 watt hours which would be a closer comparison, or an 1800 3S would be about 20 watt hours. The 1000MaH 4S I ran for about a month would sometimes need charged by the time I got home from work, for me and my habits anyways, the 1300MaH 4S and the 1800MaH 3S both pretty much get me all day with a full charge in the morning, just like dual 18650's used to.
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1 minute ago, 67exec said:
It seemed like the easiest way to me.
You, Frogmod and steamer861 and a couple others always have very valuable advice, we don't always agree, but I can't argue the logic in anything you guys have ever recommended, I for one really appreciate the help you spend your time giving, makes us all better for it, thank you and please keep sharing!!
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On 4/16/2018 at 12:27 PM, 67exec said:
The 250c won't work in that enclosure, and that Maxamps 2800 is closer to 1800mah, and voltage sag is terrible. Based on previous experience, the Maxamps will have 19wh-21wh total capacity vs a decent 4s 1600mah will be 22wh-24wh.
If you are dead set on 3s, I would buy a 5pin jst connectorLike this. Then wire it like this except only jump pins 4 and 5 together instead of jumping 3 to 4, then 4 to 5 since I was using an old 2s batt I had laying around. Then if you do anything other than 4s, it Will show low battery until you set it as 2s or 3s with escribe.
Love that solution, allows for most flexibility, I've been soldering a 3s to the board and jumping the last two on the board, but I'm tied to a 3s on that board now unless I want to switch jsts, think I'll start doing it this way because I just mod the connector on the battery and can run 2s,3s or 4s on the board. Excellent solution sir!
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On 5/1/2018 at 1:18 PM, 67exec said:
I'm happy to report that the aromamizer plus works great with replay. Dual26g wrapped in 0.3x0.1mm ribbon all 316l from lightning vapes. 3mm if 6/7 wrap .22 ohms.
Very good to know, using a digiflavor themis with 3 core 30g wrapped in 38g 316l from advancedvapesupply 6 wraps dual coil comes in at .22 and works really well with replay. Will be ordering a Supreme Plus next week!
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Loving this mod, turned out great, ty Frogmod!
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3 minutes ago, steamer861 said:
Hey Bud
If you are looking for a kit to build a 75c? Here a pretty good deal, you can get every thing you need in one kit
http://analogboxmods.ca/Box-Mod-Kits/DNA75-Kit
You have several options, I build an ABM1 with a FD 510, a ABM battery sled & external chip mount. It's a nice small sized box that fits a 21700 battery.
Here's a few pics of mine
Thats a Hana Mod DNA200 beside it for scale You can Email Them with Questions before you order, if you need Help Dan even has some nice YT videos to Help along the way
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1wwcn39EiI
I may need to look at that for my wife, she loves her 75c's
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That is absolutely ridiculous lol!
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2 minutes ago, 67exec said:
@gizman, I didn't find a battery by my prefered manufacturer to fit your bill. My dislike for Maxamps came from my rc experience running my 15lb monster. 3 separate times I had Maxamps 4s lipos crap in less than a month, plus they couldn't deliver the amperage I needed from packs rated 3x what the max of my esc is. SPC Racing was my brand of choice until they closed up shop, now turnigy seems to be the only packs that can reliably feed my beast and hold up for over a year.
It's a nitro revo converted to electric. Mamba xl extreme esc with datalogging, castle 1717 motor from XO-1, diffs from a losi xxl, and 1/4" keystock with impact wobble sockets for driveshaft.
I am sorry to hear you haven't had good luck with them.
Very impressive, good lord that thing is insane! I haven't been in it since the early 90s, my dad and I built some badass machines for what it was back then. Mad respect though, beautiful beast!
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1 minute ago, steamer861 said:
Thats the beauty of 3D printers, there designs can be Changed
A few MM give or take, no big Deal! Spending $60 on a battery, Not going to happen 
Well said sir. I obviously need to invest in a printer, I think that may be my next purchase. After I get these next two mods built I think I will take the time to learn some new skills
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1 minute ago, steamer861 said:
24.99
Only 20c But should be plenty for what we are doing
- Battery Type: Lithium Polymer (LiPo Battery)
- C Rate: 20C
- Volts: 11.1
- Capacity: 1800mAh
- Cell Count: 3S
- Cell Configuration: 3S1P
- Continuous Discharge: 20C (36A)
- Max Burst Rate: 40C (72A)
- Max Volts per Cell: 4.2V
- Max Volts per Pack: 12.6V
- Min Volts per Pack: 9V
- Charge Rate: 1C (1.8A)
- Max Approved Charge Rate: 5C (9A)
- Wire Gauge: 16 AWG Soft and Flexible Low Resistance Silicone Wire
- Plug Type: Mini Tamiya
- Dimensions: 66 x 36 x 29 mm / 2.6 x 1.4 x 1.1 in
- Watt Hours: 19.98
- Weight: 4.9 oz (140 g)
Too wide and too thick unfortunately, but I do have a different sized venom that I have had no issues with. For this mod, the battery must be smaller than 68x35x28, the maxamps actual dimensions are 67x34x27 and I can't fit anything bigger than that in the mod.
The venom I have is 4mm taller, 2mm wider and 1mm deeper than what they advertised (although it worked in the mod I purchased it for), this seems to be a common thing as I have an arris I can't use in anything.
I have a 1000 mah 4s Turnigy 20c in the mod in my hand, and it's worked great, but I will be pulling it when the 1300 Mah maxamps gets here, if nothing else than for the added watt hours.
Has anyone tried any of the graphene batteries out there? Are they superior in any way to a normal lipo? I've seen them popping up everywhere but haven't researched them at all...
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44 minutes ago, 67exec said:
I wouldn't buy anything that contains a Maxamps battery, or anything that recommends them. They are low quality cells at a premium price. They offer a lifetime warranty, but I could replace a better quality of a lesser price at least 3 times for less money and hassle.
So I'm looking for about an 1800 mah 3s smaller than 68mmx35mmx28mm, what should I buy that would be less than $55 for 3 of them and of better quality? If I'm not looking at the right brands point me in the right direction if you can please... Someone else pointed me to Maxamps, I'm definitely open to suggestions =)
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1 minute ago, retird said:
I always try to read a warranty......... Lifetime Warranty
During the first year of ownership, MaxAmps will replace any defective LiPo or LiFe battery at no cost. After one year, any defective MaxAmps LiPo or LiFe battery can be exchanged for just 50% of the new pack's list price. Our lifetime warranty is non-transferrable. You must be the original owner to receive warranty coverage.Not really buying for the warranty, but I did read that, so my expectations before I purchased were properly set.
I was just tired of replacing batteries or getting ones with weak cells and dealing with all the people selling the cheaper batteries and coughed up the $50 for a maxamps and have had one going for 3 years, and another at 2, and a third almost a year into it, and no issues.
I'm voting with my dollars until they screw me, then I'll find another brand I'm sure =)
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Point we'll taken, and I own many lipos from fullymax, crazy pony, luimier <sp>, arris, turnigy and other manufacturers as well. And I have replaced many them several times cheaply.
I typically solder my lipos directly to the board to save space, and so replacing them isn't something I relish. I have a dna 200 with a maxamps 1800 mah that I am still getting over 20 watt hours out of 3 years later, pretty sure over a million puffs on it but I've reset enough times that I'm not sure, plus I had switched the 200 for a 250 board (same 1800 mah battery though) for about a year and a half, until the USB finally gave up so I put the 200 back in it.
Now I'm just rambling but the gist is the battery should only be about 19.9 watt hours and I'm still getting over 20 after 3 years and wearing out a dna board on it. Just saying that I had to replace a DNA board before the battery wore out, and all cells are still balanced and charging/discharging at (nearly) the same rates as when new. I check it weekly just because of its age, I will retire it the second I see a weak cell, but it just keeps on working. I have 3, the other two aren't as old but are just as solid so far. Received a fourth today and have one coming on backorder and then all my lipos will be maxamps.
I would never discourage someone from using their brand of choice, but in my (limited) experience, of the brands I have used, Maxamps has cost me less in the long run...
I certainly respect your opinion, and am not putting down any less expensive brands, I just prefer what has treated me best in my experience. Hence why I insist =)
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Yeah, I love them as well, but I end up scratching them, and they are so BIG and HEAVY, if you work with someone on Shapeways instead of making what you want fit in the enclosure you can just have an enclosure made that fits what you want perfectly, and is of a lightweight durable material that doesn't show scratches. And if you do mess one up, just reprint.
I understand they aren't for everyone, but they work best for me. Frogmod (laguz75 on Shapeways) worked with me in his spare time over several weeks to get me exactly what I wanted, I can't thank him enough, very smart, creative guy that will help you out if you are looking for something specific and can't find what you want.
Probably others that would do the same, but he really did me a solid and put up with my BS, so I really appreciate it Frogmod if you are reading this!
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8 minutes ago, ruckus said:
Man those enclosures are expensive ... $81 AUD asking price for 3D printed part's seems ridiculous.
Yeah, they aren't cheap, but I can build the whole mod for around $200 US (or cheaper if I didn't insist on Maxamps lipos), would cost $250 for a Boxer or the like (and you would still need to buy batteries).
I printed my first DNA 200 off of Shapeways 3 years ago and it's still going strong, have dropped it, shoot, tripped and threw it against concrete, the mod was fine, atty glass was broken, but the material shapeways uses is super durable.
I have a DNA250 that I printed almost 2 years ago, it's still going strong, and nearly unbreakable.
It seems expensive, but compared to $300-$400 for other lipo mods it's so much better, and lighter than a dual 18650 Zinc or Alum. mod. I've bought products from all sorts of manufacturers from China to the US, and nothing seems to take a licking and keep on ticking like the ones I 3D print on Shapeways and make myself.
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Laguz75 just posted this to Shapeways for me:
https://www.shapeways.com/product/E28XXKAEX/tool-30mm-mod?optionId=65433302
Ordered two, one will sport the Maxamps 1300MaH 4s up to 400W, the other I will be using the Maxamps 1800MaH 3s for up to 300W, I will post picks of both once I have them built, this will go with the one I made and posted earlier in the thread, right now they say they will ship on about 5/15, so I anticipate having them both put together that weekend.
In the meantime here is another pic of the first DNA250C that I printed and built from Shapeways.
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2 minutes ago, iambyrdman said:
I finished mine last night. Replay stopped working even though the check is there to enable it.
Really? Had mine for 2 or 3 weeks now with zero replay issues. I'm playing a puff today (Tuesday) that I saved on Saturday. I use SS316L exclusively, what wire are you using?
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Hope you don't mind me jumping in too, same mod as steamer861 I think (mine is sized for a maxamps 1300MaH 4S, but in black, used a Cisco v2 510 from Avidvaper.com so I had to shim it 1mm, lov ing replay!!!
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1 hour ago, steamer861 said:
I had similar fitment issues with my buttons, Instead of sanding down the 3 bottom buttons I simply put a tiny spacer between the board & the case.
The fire button was much harder to fix
I left one alone & it works, could look better but, Hey.
I did fix one fire button, I sanded down the whole back side to get it sit flush but I ended up removing so much material, it was able to slide right thru the case
I fixed it with a tooth pick & some epoxy. It does sit nice now but it was a hassle
I used these case screws I got from Amazon
There a bit long but can be cut easy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1OD4ZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had some tiny self tapping screws for plastic to secure the board
BTW here's a pic of mine
Oh Ya Thanks Frogmod for uploading these
oh yeah, thank you steamer861 for the link to the screws, I'll pick up some of those when I reprint. Did you pre drill prior, if so what size? Did you tap it or just have the screw create it's own threads?
I like your idea of the toothpick, if the double sided tape doesn't resolve it I'll try that before I shave anything off the fire button, thank you so much for the reply and the help =)
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6 minutes ago, steamer861 said:
I had similar fitment issues with my buttons, Instead of sanding down the 3 bottom buttons I simply put a tiny spacer between the board & the case.
The fire button was much harder to fix
I left one alone & it works, could look better but, Hey.
I did fix one fire button, I sanded down the whole back side to get it sit flush but I ended up removing so much material, it was able to slide right thru the case
I fixed it with a tooth pick & some epoxy. It does sit nice now but it was a hassle
I used these case screws I got from Amazon
There a bit long but can be cut easy https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01B1OD4ZQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I had some tiny self tapping screws for plastic to secure the board
BTW here's a pic of mine
Oh Ya Thanks Frogmod for uploading these
Beautiful! I am a Royals fan and seriously considered the blue, looks awesome!
Agreed, can't thank Frogmod enough, he was super easy to work with and made all the modifications I asked for, his cases are only going to get better, and mine works fine as is, keep up the good work Frogmod!
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1 hour ago, Frogmod said:
I’m glade you like it. What kind of issues did you have with the buttons, so That way I can change it in the model, when you said “finding proper screws” are you talking about the board screws?
Basically I need to trim down some of the bottom 3 buttons, when I tighten the board all the way down one or more of the bottom buttons are constantly pressed, pretty sure I can just sand/trim them down just a bit. Right now I just loosened the bottom screw on the board and if when I pull the USB it pulls the board too tight I just hit one of the 3 buttons and it pushes the board back a bit and it's all good. Like I say, some minor adjustments and they should be fine.
The Fire button, however (see picture), the top of it is in the mod further than the bottom, so it sits at kind of an angle. Whey I push the top for the back it sits out perfectly, just after the first press there is no pressure at the top of the button and it just sits a little cocked. I may be able to fix that with some double-sided spongy tape between the top of the button and the board, it's a pretty minor thing and is more aesthetics and feel than functionality.
I had some self taping screws meant for plastic that I got with the last shapeways DNS 250 I made, they worked fine for the screwing the board down... the two pieces of the case, however, I didn't have as much luck with.
The link provided was for Machine screws, and didn't have a thread count or length, so I wasn't sure what to get, and with Machine Screws you have to thread them, and I don't have a tap and die set for plastic or in the thread counts that were listed on the machine screws.
It would have been nice if the link took me to a screw I could order that I knew would work, but the link takes you to a page where you have to decide thread counts, lengths, etc before you could order anything and I just felt more comfortable going to a hardware store and finding something I knew was long enough and would hopefully work.
I decided to go with some 1 1/4" #4-40 wood screws, I knew the head would be a little big on them, but they should work (and I could grind the heads to a slightly smaller shape and everything would fit). In my anxiousness to get it together I tried one of the screws in one of the bottom holes and it went in fine, so I put on in the top and due to the extra material and me not taking the time to pre-drill all holes to appropriate diameters, I broke a screw in one of the top holes. Tried drilling it out and broke the drill bit in it. So yeah, some issues with screws, and now I need to at least reprint the back at some point. Maybe we could collaborate on a modified design that will still work with the 1300 MaH MaxAmps whenever it gets here =)
All in all though, very, very happy. Everything I've mentioned I can either fix or I caused myself (there may be something you could do with the fire button).
I may have the first DNA 250C in Kansas City and that is priceless.
I can't thank you enough for how quickly you got it up, modified to my requests, with only minor modifications needed - Frogmod you rule!
Casey
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On 3/22/2018 at 2:56 PM, Frogmod said:
This one is ready https://www.shapeways.com/product/VLFHHEXJP/30mm-250c-referencecase
this mod was design for the battery in the discription, more mod cases coming soon
Everything went together pretty good, some slight issues with the buttons, finding proper screws, etc, used a Cisco V2 510, it has a 2mm deep deck, so I had to shim it 1mm, all in all I am loving it so far.
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On 3/22/2018 at 2:56 PM, Frogmod said:
This one is ready https://www.shapeways.com/product/VLFHHEXJP/30mm-250c-referencecase
this mod was design for the battery in the discription, more mod cases coming soon
I'll post more later, battery on back order but grabbed a 1000MaH Turnigy 4S to tide me over until the maxamps gets here, replay is amazing!
Places to buy DNA 250c Enclosures for custom builds
in Modders' Forum
Posted
Do you have the short one in alum? I would be interested....