Jvape78

I see both sides of this situation. With the booming popularity of the dna 200 it would probably be wise just so people that are not versed enough to know the difference can easily check the settings of their mod.it would likely save evolv a bunch of dumb emails also. .But the argument that the dna 200 is an advanced vaping device and shouldn't really be used by the type of vapers that wouldn't know the difference could also be strongly argued.

What voltage are your batteries when you do finally get the weak battery message

Lol. .I wish. If you had a dual configured mod, you could plug it in to escribe and see what we who have them see, you'd understand it's no simple mah or curve setting. You can watch the voltage the cells get very erratic when they dip under 3.7 or so. I describe what they do a few posts above. No matter what you set your mah and curve at, it won't change the way the cells act below 3.7v.

Yeah I kinda figured that may be the end result. Wish I had known to expect it instead of ripping the mod build apart at least 50 times, rewiring and configuring settings and such. Chip works flawless except for that. I have a cloud maker I had ordered back in July coming so there's my lipo if I need it. I also have a pre order for that new triple 18650 the realeux or whatever. That little dude is gonna rock with 3,3000 mah batteries so I'm good with my little boxer type version and it's dual battery software issues.running it at 50w or under, It runs my 25rs to about 3.6v and my new hg3000 to about 3.5. . They get me through a whole work day powering my cthulhu v2 with a dual 26ga titanium build of. 25 at 50w so I'm gonna call this issue laid to rest and it is what it is until (unless)evolv can fix it in a future update. I appreciate the help!

Not the batteries! Something bogus happening elsewhere but today I ran the brand new freshly charged pair of hg3000 mah down until I got weak battery note (set at 2.9v). Plugged into escribe at that point and this is what I got. . 3.4v batteries sagging down to 2.9 is not right. Not only that but I noticed that some times it doesn't register any sag,sometimes both sag, and sometimes only one or the other sags. .. I used 18ga wire and it's less than 2 inches long so I shouldn't think it's wire size. ..I am at the point now where it seems to be clearly not my batteries or my wiring. .kinda only leaves one culprit.

Mad scientist, where I'm at right now is I lowered the soft cell cutoff to 2.9 . I was out of town all weekend so I didn't bother trying to run down cells as I couldn't monitor them so I just swapped batteries at 50 percent and did not get any weak battery notifications like I normally would have when using my regular seasoned 25r batteries. So Monday (today)I put in the freshly charged seasoned set of 25r batteries and used it all day at 46 watts. I just now got the weak battery at about 90 percent drain on my meter. My meter is a hodge podge mix of the new hg3000mah watt hours with a discharge curve that of the lg he 2500's. So I have been more interested in hitting the soft cell cut off 2.9 and then measuring my cells regardless of the meter anyway. .when I pulled the set today after getting the weak battery they measured at about 3.5v so the sag is still very evident with those particular batteries. I'm putting in the fresh hg3000mah set right now so tomorrow evening I will have them run down and will be able to check them and I'll have the definitive answer as to the cause of the massive sag either being battery related or not. This has made notice the battery life in my other mods using these same batteries and I feel that in the end the batteries will end up being mostly to blame but we'll find out for sure tomorrow. ..

Are you sure the 44wh is correct dejay? I have those batteries and seen to remember then being in the 20's for wh but I could be mistaken. I don't have the proper discharge curve yet but I'm working on it ands I'll post it in a screen shot when it's done

This is probably covered somewhere in the forums but why do we need to input the discharge curve? And what controls the battery meter on the display itself? Does it read voltage off the sled then compare that to input we tell it for total mah capacity? If so shouldn't that be all the info it needs? I'm curious as to why the discharge curve input is necessary and what function it provides in the chip operation. Just curious

I lowered mine to 2.9 last night and I'm gonna monitor the sag periodically throughput the day. I'll report in once I see how these new hg batteries act under 3.8.

Well there's a lot of mods out there that have the chip flash low battery at 5.4v. So that means the batteries are respectively hitting 2.7 under load yes?

Been having some issues with my dual 18650 build. I keep getting massive battery sag whenever the battery gets to 3.8 standing charge. At above it barely sags at all but below 3.8 it sags so much it trips the low battery message! That's just running a .08ni build at 45 watt btw. So I notice the soft cutoff is set at 3.09v and I'm wondering if it's ok to drop it to like 2.8 or so? I just bought a set of hg2,3000mah today and gonna see if that helps. I'm currently using 25r and vtc5. All sets are long married. They're at least 6 months of use on them but they seem to still work great and always take a full charge though. .

I do have 1 issue left to resolve. I keep getting a weak battery alert on screen when my battery bar is 3/4 full still. . I plugged it into escribe and the picture here is the readout. Everything looks right. Cells 1&2 reading 3.8 and cell 3 is reading 1.25. I know they set the limit to 1.5v on cell 3 so I'm under that. . Only thing I can think of is maybe the tap connection at the battery tray is not perfect and if it jumps up over 1.5 it causes the chip to enter 3s mode and then thinks the battery is low on that 3rd cell. But it never gives the message when the batteries are fully fresh and you'd think a connection issues could cause the message to be seen at any time..any other thoughts before I warm up the soldering iron?

After 2 solid weeks of pounding my head against the wall I finally got this boxer style dual 18650 dna 200 built. I had everything right but the chip wouldn't stay powered. Come to find out the ground pin from the balance tap had come loose where soldered to the board and I couldn't tell it because it was already mounted in the case! Talk about frustrating! I nearly lost my sh#t more than once and was tempted to light the whole thing on fire. In hindsight, I should have picked a much bigger enclosure to use for my first time ever soldering or modding. I have an authentic boxer with 350j and love it so I thought this would be fun. .lol. I'm very happy with the chip and the enclosure fits as advertised but it's no where near as beefy and solid as a authentic boxer case fyi.. I see that Ginger vapor is selling the authentic in a build yourself version and I wish I'd have gone that route for the exact same money I spent on this reproduction. But it's built now and I'm gonna vape the piss out of it until my Alpine tech 1590g plus gets here then I'm gonna attempt to get this build put into that! It's a viscous cycle!

Finally figured it out. .the ground pin had come loose in the pad where it is soldered to the board. That little dude cost me every night after work for the last 6 days! I always learn the hard way. Anyways thanks for your assistance. It helped me figure out the issue .

Took the mount out so I could provide better pictures and soldered the pos and neg back on and it fires up just fine. . So could bad connection at the positive output side cause this? I have a hard time believing it was the connection at the b pads because I've redone those at least 20 times. .keeping my fingers crossed it works when I re install it back in the case!

Here's some pictures. Hard to get good ones with it mounted in this tiny boxer case. I know it's not professional level. First time ever soldering. .

Yes twisted together, then soldered together then soldered to the bridge. For reference ,I did have this mod working but my positive 510 came a little loose so I wanted to beef up the solder and took the battery tray out to do it. All my problems have come after. Thiso is the first time I've ever soldered anything or built a mod. So it didn't come as a shock when I started having these issues but I've gone back and done this so many times now it is crazy. I will get some good pictures for you and I think I have a multimeter but I'll have to dig a little. Thank you for your help

Ground is run to b neg battery tray. 1 is run to bridge on battery tray. 2 and 3 are twisted together at the end and attached to positive on battery tray. Thanks for your help. I've rebuilt this thing over 30 times no shit. .about to loose it!

I've been having a tough go at getting my chip to work properly in my build. I see that recommended wire size for the balancing tap wires is 20 GA or a bit bigger. .I bought a pre wired tap from my local rc store that uses 22 gauge. Could this be the reason I can't get my chip to stay powered on for more than 3 seconds? I know my wiring is correct and I've set chip to 2 cell and loaded the curve so I'm not understanding what the heck else I can do here. I didn't know if 22 gauge would be enough difference to cause this or not.

I did have to move the lead at the pos-neg bridge to make room during install. I might have not gotten a good connection when I moved it so I'll check that also.

. On the balance connector pins from left to right, left being ground I did this. Ground went to b neg , next went to the bridge on the battery tray that connects the pos to neg then the 3rd is connected to the 4th and the 4th connected to b pos

Hey gurus, I just put a dna 200 chip into a boxer style case I got off shape ways. Other than being a monumental pain in the butt to get it built in that tiny space, I have an issue when I went to fire it up. I should note that this is a dual 18650 build, and I updated the software and set it to run 2 cell as well as inputted my battery info. So like I said, after I did all final wiring and installed 2 freshly charged batteries, pushed the power button and all I get is the initial power on screen and then it shut down. Every time I push the power I get that screen and then after doing it 2 or 3 times I get no screen message at all, just dead. . I looked everything over and nothing seems wrong. I did several power on cycles before I did final install and never had an issue. I tried to connect to escribe again after this and it wouldn't connect. Any suggestions? I'm new to modding but I followed all instructions and wiring diagrams properly I think. Thanks. Sorry it's so long