jj6404

So I just watched a review on the Koopor Plus 200 watt temp control device by Koopor or Smok or whatever and it's a cheap (under $100?) dual 18650 device that isn't truly upgradeable but it comes pre-programmed with Ni, Ti, AND SS modes that lets you adjust the TCR for each on the device itself and as I said in the title more importantly lets you adjust the TCR down to the ten thousandths which as far as I'm aware the escribe software does not. Why am I limited to 0.001 on such an advanced board like the DNA200 but on this cheaper Chinese board am I able to properly adjust between 0.0094 and 0.00105 for different grades of SS. BTW the review I watched was by DJLSB Vapes who has the equipment to measure temp control accuracy and boasts an overall impressive accuracy with the Koopor Plus.

No this is a new 75watt Mod which they also claim can meassure how much juice you have left in you tank[/QUOTE] Dude, it's the same effing thing. I've been following iJoy and the Asolo for a while. The new 75 watt is the mini version of their iJoy Asolo. That's why it's called the Asolo mini. It's the same tech. It doesn't "tell you how much juice is left". Like I said, the "taste control" learns when your wicks are drying (which is what they mean when they say how much juice is left). Go ahead and get one and try it if you don't want to believe anybody. The technology is unique and promising, but it's definitely not all it's cracked up to be, and it's definitely not a DNA 200. The original Asolo 200 doesn't even really go up to 200 watts. P.Busardo proved that. But go ahead, get one, and tell us how great your "temp control" is working on Kanthal. If you read their instruction book or follow them on Instagram, you'll see that they keep changing their claims between "taste control on all wires!" and "taste control on most wires!". It's a guessing technology that has like a 66% success rate.

1) isn't vaping nickel in power mode very dangerous?? 2) so can anyone recommend a different tcr than the ones we currently use for SS that will account for the nickel legs and give us a better vape with tc?

I have an Asolo as well as a DNA 200. The Asolo does NOT regulate temperature in any way near the same sense that the DNA does... Just watch P.Busardo's review of it. It does something they call "taste control" with kanthal. You have to vape it at your desired wattage level, sometimes for like an hour (a spaced kanthal coil btw, does not really work with contact anything). The chip learns how you vape. So when you switch over to "taste control mode" after vaping it a while, it attempts to cut the vape when your coil is about dry. If you watch any of the reviews, and listen to my personal experience, you'll see that it only works some of the time. I'll even say it works most of the time. But it's not temperature control, or even temperature limiting, it's dry hit protection. The technology is still cool, I admit, and I like my Asolo. The bad thing about the mod is that I suspect the actual Ni and Ti temp control modes that it has uses the same technology. Because if you use one, or watch P.Busardo's review, you'll notice that you ALSO have to vape an Ni or Ti coil for a few times in POWER MODE before you switch over to temp control for it to work. Not very safe. I remember first time I used it was the first time I was using Ti wire and since I wanted to vape it in temp control at around 65 watts, I was vaping my builds at 65 watts in POWER MODE first to get it to "learn" and I ruined a bunch of builds getting hot legs that way.

Yeah. That's how mine is too. I have it set to around that. I think I entered in 1100 mah for the capacity. It's set not 900. Phil updated his video I'm pretty sure he had a note or something. If you set it to 900 then it will act like a 900 mah but it's not.

I watched Phil's video. I don't have time to re-watch it right now, but from what I remember, he noted that he incorrectly assumed that Hcigar had the correct battery settings in escribe on the first batches. And that was why his analysis yielded the result equivalent to a 900 mah battery. From what I've heard/read, it is closer to a 1100 mah lipo in there.

9.99? I know that is the default evolv setting but I've heard around 11 wh and 14 wh depending on believing the lipo is a 1300 or 1100 mah battery. Right now I have it set to a 1100 mah lipo with a 3.09 cutoff. I figure I'll get a good amount of cycles before I have to replace it right?

Why would they hit so differently if your mod resistance is set accurately on both?

Yes. To 0.0045. In other news, I have a spaced 24g SS 316L build working pretty nice with a tcr that I input of 0.001. I know someone said 0.00094 is 316 but when I tried to put that in it said minimum was 0.001

Hcigar VT200

I've tried the 304 from steam engine, tried the "crown" one from Facebook. They both sucked for me. So I did a custom and just put in 0.00105 for the tcr like you said and and 65 watts 80watt preheat and 550 degrees it's very close to the straight power at 60 watts that I love but sometimes it still feels airy and cuts prematurely. How can you have your wattage set that high with the crown ?? I had one profile set with the 304 from steam engine I believe but with 200 preheat, 540 degrees, 65 watts and one hit fried my coil head. It gave me the nastiest dry hit obviously.

I got the same exact plastic-like coating on my 510. Brass thread version from Eciggity my serial is 0763. Is not everyone's like this??? I posted the question on ECF and got one guy saying his 510 is coated too.

Has anyone else had success with contact Ti coils yet? I don't want to waste my Ti wire on a contact build until I hear some good cases.

Been using a dual coil 11 wrap 2.5 mm ID SS316L from UD on my Twisted Messes and new VT200. Tried the 316, 316 elite, and 316 haywire csv files and at 500-570 degrees F and 60-70 watts I get airy weak vapes that the dna cuts way too early. Got my mod resistance set at 0.0045 but haven't done the case analyzer(don't know if that is relevant in this matter or not). I don't lock my resistance through my mod or escribe(again not sure if relevant or even how to do this). One thing I did notice is that when switching attys between my velocity with titanium or my crown with SS and my Twisted Messes with SS, it rarely presents me with the new or same coil option. I don't see how this would make a difference because doesn't the dna200 read real time accurate resistance every time you press the fire button anyway? Idk. Need help from you experienced guys.

Wow, your boxer cracked for no reason and it wasn't covered under any warranty or anything?? Like $200 for the dna133 and they still charge you for a replacement casing?? I'm so glad I went with the VT200. So what mod do you have on the way?

Hey guys. So I've tried the steam engine csv for ss316, ss304 like you guys suggested, and another one from the dna200 themes Facebook page that just said "uwell crown". With each one of them all I get is varying degrees of weak, prematurely cut vapes on the crown with the 0.25 SS dual coil coil heads. Even at the temp at max 600 F and the wattage at 75, just weak, short airy vapes that are nothing like the dense flavorful vapes I get at 60 watts on straight power mode. Anyone figure this out yet? For those of you who are saying the 304 csv is working well for you, what exact settings on your device do you have? Also, I love the vape on power mode at 60 watts and airflow either full open or the click right under full open.

Hey guys, sorry if this has been answered to death but I could not find the info on a search. So I just got my Hcigar VT200 and I'm wondering what the proper discharge/recharge procedures are to properly condition the lipo. Do you do complete discharge/recharge cycles for the first few cycles? Is a complete discharge considered using it until you get the weak battery message at like 16% or using it until it just won't fire anymore like <16%? If the aforementioned "cycles" are completed, is it then ok to "top off" and charge the battery whenever you want?