Willy
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Posts posted by Willy
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10 hours ago, retird said:
hum..... I've made a few "stealthy" super small mods over the years with charge boards and flat cell li-po's.... what battery are you using in this one? I'm thinking of a "stealthy" with parallel flat cells and the charger board standing up in the very corner. Uses very little space when standing in the corner. Mind if I ask the physical size of your project?
Runs of a 18650, it's not really a super small mod, just space where the board mounts is limited. I've bought four of these, put DNA 40's in them and loved them, they were a great pocket friendly mod but they won't run the .03 ohm builds I use these days so they have been shelved. The 60 should fit fine but there's no room for the charger board, I'll need to make a pigtail (maybe use a ribbon cable) with a small connector to connect the charger to the board for the escribe connection.
When the 200's came around I built a bunch of them, and a couple 75's, I use them all in rotation. The 75's I squeezed in a couple old hana dna 30 boxes and use them for my "work around the house" pocket mods but I really miss my Z's, I'd like to get them dusted off and back in use, plus they just feel good in my hand.
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I've got a question, the mod I'm looking to build with a 60, it doesn't have room for the charge board, I don't care about charging but I'll need to connect to escribe. So the plan is to use a small connector and make a patch cable, wire one side to the charger and one to the board so I can plug it in and connect the charge board to the 60 when I need to use escribe. The main 60 board will not be powered by the battery when connected to escribe, I'll have to pull the battery from the mod when plugging in my patch cable, so in this case, do I need to wire all five pinouts, number's 11-15 or can I get away with just 13-15? I'm trying to use the smallest connector I can find, one half of the patch cable, the side wire to the 60 board, will have to tuck inside the mod when the battery is put back in, space is very limited, a three wire connector would really help if I can get by with it. Thanks!
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Make sure you use a good flux meant for electronics, NEVER use soldering paste sold in the plumbing section of hardware stores unless you damn sure it's safe to use on boards! Most of these contain Zinc Chloride flux, it is corrosive and conductive and it will continue to keep corroding. It's used in soldering copper pipes for plumbing, not something you ever want to use on electronics.
Zinc chloride - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
As a metallurgical flux
Zinc chloride has the ability to react with metal oxides (MO) to give derivatives of the formula MZnOCl2.[32] This reaction is relevant to the utility of ZnCl2 solution as a flux for soldering â it dissolves oxide coatings exposing the clean metal surface.[32] Fluxes with ZnCl2 as an active ingredient are sometimes called "tinner's fluid". Typically this flux was prepared by dissolving zinc foil in dilute hydrochloric aciduntil the liquid ceased to evolve hydrogen; for this reason, such flux was once known as "killed spirits". Because of its corrosive nature, this flux is not suitable for situations where any residue cannot be cleaned away, such as electronic work. -
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Ww34ww
Maybe this will be better, here's a link to another forum where I posted a bunch of pics showing step by step how to completely take apart the HotCig's
https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/threads/evolv-ing-thread.736118/page-108#post-18104825 -
Ww34ww,
I assume your asking how to take the 510 apart? Here's how, if you need other info let me know, I have more pics of taking the HotCig apart.
To take the 510 apart, this cap unscrews, I use needle nose pliers to loosen
The tan colored plastic insulator may unscrew with it, the one in the middle is a hotcig, the other two are from VariTube V1 510's, I replaced the guts of the HotCig 510's with the VariTube parts because in my opinion they are better.
The main body of the 510 is pressed in, the guts of the VariTube 510's are a direct fit. The first pic above shows the VariTube parts after they were installed. Here's a link to the VT V1's http://www.varitube.com/VT-510-V1-Connector--Self-adjusting-Center-Pin-_p_141.html
(Note: While I had the board out I gently scraped the paint off the three board mount pads with a razor down to the bare metal giving a better ground for the board. Arrow points to one of these pads.)
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You mean I shouldn't believe everything I read on the web?
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VapingBad said:
? usually means it has hit the current limit for the test, so the res it at the low end of the range, I use 0.002 when I get this.
Hey VB, Did I get that wrong? I thought it meant zero? -
lewisss said:
I have built loads of dna devices and i measure the mod resistance with a solid copper threaded knob from signature mods.
i always get mod resistance between 0.005-0.002 ohms
I have just done my first dna250 (massive with a turnigy 4000mah 3s2p graphene lipo)
and it reads the resistance as i screw it on like normal but when it makes good contact it shows?
does this mean there is 0 resistance in the mod?
is this even possible?
Yes, ? means o ohms, you'll get the same ? when no atty is attached, the board sees zero/no ohms therefore shows the ? symbol. I have a couple of my custom made Hammond box mods that read zero once I've tighten and bottomed out the 510 tool showed in my post above. Most of my other mods read between .003-.005
I always make sure the threads on the tool and the 510 is good and clean of any juice, dirt or oil before testing. I confess, I'm obsessive with keeping the 510's and thread on the atty's clean, I use q-tips on the 510 every time I change an atty, cram them hard as I can in the 510 and rotate it all around and repeat. On the atty threads, fold a piece of paper towel doubled, with my thumbnail I press the towel hard into the threads and spin. Over time juice and crud will get in there and I'll get black steaks in the cotton from the 510 threads where the crud came out of the bottom of the treads. Usually I use dry q-tips, if a tip looks really dirty I'll dampen with alcohol then repeat with a dry tip. -
jurdanas said:
Willy
Sorry, but I don't have computer in mine pocket![[nono]](/images/boards/smilies/nono.gif "Nono - :nono:")
edit:
Situation by YiHi SX350j chip software, one year's create updates when board run good.
EVOLV create 1,5 year's DNA200 updates - don't have "full good work".
Why DNA75 software work good?
I'm sorry if anything incorrect.
I was posting to help shed light your not the only one with the battery meter problem, your welcome.
Just because I posted it doesn't bother me doesn't mean I was implying you should feel the same.
With your edit I now have a better understanding how you feel about your evolv boards and I don't think anything will change that.
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jurdanas said:
Willy
Sorry, but I don't have computer in mine pocket
Neither do I
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No it won't make it weak, your fine using one cell. VB is right, must be something wrong with the mod, not the board, if it only drains one cell. The board/chip was designed to run off one cell, your mod is wired to use two batteries in parallel, two batteries together in parallel doubles the capacity while keeping the voltage the same. When using them in parallel it's important the batteries are matched, ideally use two new identical batteries purchased together from the same source then mark them, keep them together, charge them both at the same time.
Here is the page for the board where it states it's made to run on one, also here's a link for the data sheet & manual in a pdf file for the 75 in case you want to read it.
https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna75
https://downloads.evolvapor.com/dna75.pdf -
Yeah, with SP3 all of my 200's and both 75's sometimes loose the battery meter if I pull/change the battery or if I upload new settings in escribe. I just disconnect/reconnect the battery or re-upload the settings until it comes back, usually it only takes one shot, sometimes two and it's back. Not really that annoyed or worried about it, I know there will be a fix at some point.
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2legsshrt said:
I am just wondering about something I read. When I looked for the Escribe for the DNA75 and thought I had found it I downloaded it and installed it. It is version 1.2SP3. I thought this was the right version because it came from Evolve. Now I am reading that it is experimental and I shouldn't be using it. Well I don't know whether to keep using it or not. It seems to work fine. I am using it on 2 DNA75's and 1 DNA200. I haven't had any problems should I roll my mods back somehow or what. Like I say I have had no problems. Also if this is experimental when Evolve releases the final version what should I do.
The warning to not use it was shortly after it was put up here as a early (beta) version, some tweaks were made. Once it moves from the forum here and it hits Evolv's website enough testing time has passed and it's ready for prime time. Your good to go, keep right on using it.
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What has worked for me on many of my mods, I save my settings before flashing, then reload them after. It has always restored my battery meter and no other problems noted, haven't had to do any soft reboot since I started this practice. Works for me, YMMV.
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stylemessiah said:
Thanks. Be nice if they didnt hide such an update in a forum thread and made it available form the DNA HP....
You have to know the secret handshake before you can use it.
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Another question, will the small screen be detachable?
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BevoLatte said:
Have an issue hopefully someone can help with; upgraded to sp3 and now temp mode using ss316L sucks. I have it set to 47 watts 480F using steam engine TCR for SS. 5 or 6 drags in vapor diminishes quite a bit. with previous firmware temp mode was kick ass. Not sure what's wrong now....
Did you change anything at all after updating? Sound's (to me) like either there is a connection problem inside the atty like a loose screw on a post would cause, or a problem with the board seeing the true ohms, a common cause I've had is a dirty 510 on the atty and/or mod.
Did you check it in "Device Monitor" while using it so you can see and monitor what the board is seeing and putting out? Watching what's going on during use can point you where to look.
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Be careful if you run the battery test on 18650 or 26650 battery's, watch where your cutoff voltage is set and do not let the test run unattended, the battery can get very hot and overheat. Here is a link for a very long list of tests that have already been done, I'm sure you'll find any common battery used in vaping listed. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/forum/blog-entry/list-of-battery-tests.7436/
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VapingBad said:
I wouldn't personally have them touching the back of the board as the 75 runs hotter than the 200, I doubt there is any danger, just that it could age the cell that is touching prematurely.
The 75 runs hotter? Well there goes my plans.... I'll have to rethink this build. Thanks VB! -
I'm looking to stack lipo cell's in parallel in a mod for a 75 build, the cells would be laying on their side (not the edge) against the back of the board. Will I be subjecting the lipo to safe temperatures? I vape less then half of what the board is capable but still wonder what the max temp is fron these 75's. From what I've been able to find, recommended max exposure temps for lipo's range from 120-140F (not sure that is accurate) and I read on the 200 forum they run up to 150F max, I'm think the 75's run cooler?
Thanks in advance! -
Nice!
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VapingBad said:
You can set the USB current to zero in DM, under Diagnostics.
Perfect! Thanks VB! You the man too!
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James,
Had a thought that some might find handy and maybe it's a feature that could be added at some point when your tinkering with the software. Being able to shut the charging off when hooked to escribe would be desirable at times when I'm playing with settings while connected to my Windows tablet/laptop, it would help save battery reserves of the tablet.
Thank you sir! You the man!
DNA60 Wiring USB module
in Modders' Forum
Posted
I thought about that, I really doubt there will be enough room. It would be great if it would but I think once the battery tube is in place it will hit the usb port. Hmmm..... I guess I could try to cut down the outer shell of the usb, that would gain a little clearance. I'm still going to look for small connectors to make a patch cable with so one way or the other I should be able to get the mod working.