Conanthewarrior
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Posts posted by Conanthewarrior
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Hello everyone.
I have a question about the W/h's and discharge profile set for the Wismec Reulaeux DNA200, as I am using LG HE4's.
It comes preset with a custom CSV for the device, and the battery W/h's is set to 21.44.
I have been using it like this since I got it, but realise the W/h's are actually 28.5. I have a set of 4 completely fresh LG HE4's, and 3 are now in the device-hence me changing the W'h meter to its correct setting.
It has been working fine, although due to the difference in W/h's I gather the battery meter is probably off.
I have changed the watt hours to 28.5,I know not each battery will be dead on 2500MAH, but I am guessing the differences should balance out-as is the case with the batteries I was using.
I was using some older LG HE4's (a month old) that was a married pair, plus another battery-these were dead in balance, all the way through discharge in escribe-I used these as they was all I had, and I knew that the batteries had had a very similar amount of use over the few weeks I had owned them, so I probably will keep these as my set to swap too when the batteries in the device die.
The new batteries I have are slightly off, by around .1V on the third cell-but I guess this is where they are new, and after a few cycles they will level out to work together.
Now-I have changed the watt hours to a more acceptable level to make the meter more accurate-but should I also change the discharge profile that come with the device? That is for a 21.44W/h setup-but this is only in writing, it still functions the same with a higher capacity set up, and am thinking it may be best to leave that alone, as it is, as the discharge profile seems to work well.
So-would you change the CSV discharge profile for the batteries-or leave it standard as come with the device? I am thinking leave it, as the designers of the device seem to have made a good discharge profile, but if I notice it is not accurate now I have set the W/h's to what they should be, I will need to make a custom discharge CSV-or just go back to the slightly off battery meter, that still worked fine.
So, in this situation, what would you personally do? Just change the W/h's as I have done, and keep the battery profile as is, or create a new battery profile?
Thanks everyone for your help, Conan. -
HugeEgo said:
28 gauge 430 SS works about as well as Ti for me. You can get 430 SS wire (as well as 317L) from unkamensupplies.com. The downside is 430 is not as corrosion resistant as 316/317.
Personally, I just keep going back to Ti. I am not sure why so many people refuse to use it (I guess because of the scare of TiO2 which is completely overblown). 316/317 SS just isn't a great TC wire because it just doesn't have a high enough TCR.
Another option is to use one of the Iron-nickel alloys (Nifethal, etc.). Or if you're a high-roller, you could buy some 32 gauge sterling silver or platinum wire and vape like a rockstar.
Finally, I think it's possible that some of the wire from China (UD) is not the correct alloy. This could explain some of the weird results people are getting. I know that Joyetech labels some of their coils as 316 SS when it most definitely is not 316. Just as one example. Unkanmensupplies claims their wire is made in the USA so the wire they sell is most likely following the proper ASTM specs. The Chinese do things their own way and often don't follow western specifications or standards. Not that their wire is bad or unsafe, but it might be "different," which can throw TC off. Go to Fastech and look at their Ti wire. None of it is labeled as grade 1. Someone asked FT what "grade" the wire is and they responded "There are no grades in China." So it might be grade 1 or 2, or it might be grade 5. I am sure it really is Ti wire, but it might not match up exactly with CP Grade 1 wire made to western specs.
Hi, I have found that 317L still seems to be working, but it needs a lot of airflow or power reduces so much it does not produce any vapour.
If I am honest-TI is also my favourite wire. I just have some memory issues, and I have a LOT of tanks and drippers-so sometimes I can forget what is TI and what is kanthal, to use on my other devices that do not have TC (All of my mods in the collection get some use, even older ones).
I was hoping to get SS working due to being able to use it in both power mode and TC mode, so my memory issues would not matter.
But-I agree the dangers of TI seem overblown, and it is perfect for building dual coils and single coils that work well in TC mode.
NI200 is just too low resistance for anything other than 28 gauge single coils, and I find higher gauges are very fragile, so I don't use any higher (some of my first TC mods only support NI200).
But, TI seems to be the wire of choice for me.
If 28 gauge 430 SS works as well as TI for you, I will definitely give that a shot. Thank you for telling me somewhere I can get it in the UK-I will order some now.
I received some NIfe30 today, as I could not find NIfe52 in the UK, from stealth vape.
This sits between NI200 and TI, I will probably use the spool up, as it works well, but again needs a lot of wraps to work (28 gauge), and duals seem out of the question with it.
I know we are talking different wire types, but I have found that 26 gauge is my favourite gauge to use, It is pretty solid, and has enough surface area in a coil (depending on wire type of course-But kanthal and TI, I actually use 27 gauge TI as it is a lot closer to building with kanthal, not needing silly wraps a side to work).
I really, really want SS to work, I have got 317L working well on my EVIC VTC mini with the custom TCR feature, So I have tried to simply enter its TCR instead of loading a CSV file, but Escribe says the value is too low to be used, and I can not enter it (0.00094).
I came to that conclusion after using steam engines wire wizard for 317l, 940X10-Power of 6. (Sorry, I do not know how to get the number to appear above the others as it should in text, it should read as 940x10 with the -6 in the top right, so I just put minus by the power of six instead).
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Hang on-I think I have gone and cracked it-I made a completely new custom CSV for the 317L, and realised the preheat was set to the efusion standard of 150, I reduced it to 80W-and it seems to be working.
I have just ordered 6 reels of different wire types, I needed some more wire anyway so its no worry-but 317L in my royal hunter is not dry hitting, single coil, 2MM ID 6 wraps, 0.31 at 20W, I may of finally cracked it-but I am pretty sure before I thought this, and the next day it was dry hitting.
I will see how this goes and update this if it is still working tomorrow. -
I forgot to add-I do know how to make a custom CSV using the wire wizard.
OK-Nife52 Wire-I will be honest, I don't know anything about this wire.
Is it as 'safe' as the other wires we use for TC?
Can I also use this wire in power mode-like SS?
If so, I am going to order some right now.
I must ask though, not knowing anything about it, where does its resistance lay relative to TI and SS? Is it closer to TI or SS?
Thank you for your help
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Hi everyone.
I really want to convert to SS as my wire of choice-as then I can use my tanks and drippers on the DNA200, or any other mod in my collection that does not have TC.
I have tried MANY csv files, I find the best one is the one that come with my efusion, and 317L to work the best-although it still doesn't offer the level of control as TI or NI200, I still get partly burnt hits and such.
I have two different brands of SS316L, and one brand of 317L.
SS316L seems to decide on its own if it will work or not, sometimes being detected as a TC wire, other times not.
317L always is detected as a TC capable wire, so that works-the standard steam engine CSV files do not work as well as the ones for the Efusion.
Could anyone help me crack this, or is SS always going to be less precise than TI and NI200 due to its small change in resistance when heated?
Does anyone have a file, for 316L or 317L, or should I get some 316 and 304 and try that?
It would be great if I could change all my devices to run on this wire, and keep the odd tank or 2 for NI200 devices and TI capable devices as I have loads of tanks, same with drippers.
I will be honest, I don't know how to create a custom CSV.
I am using crazy wire branded 316L and 317L, the other manufacturer I do not know.
Thanks everyone, Conan. -
I am having this issue after reinstalling Escribe-none of my backup files will open, it says unsupported file format.
I haven't changed my date and time settings, so I don't know how to get those back-they were the original settings my devices come with, so I would like them to be able to go back to if need be. -
AHA! I have examined the hotcig battery enclosure-it only has 3 pins, so that is why it is working correctly. It is an actual 18650 enclosure designed to work with the device.
So-they have in essence already done the step for me.
Glad I wont need to break it apart.
Thank you for the info tho vaping bad-it seems as the enclosure is designed for the specific device, this has already been thought of.
So, that is why it is working fine, charging fine, and displaying fine in Escribe as it should. Very happy. Just need to get the V2 fixed now as it was reading batteries terribly out of balance, that were in fact fine when checked with a multimeter and on the EVOLV repaired V1, and now is reading them so out of balance it flickers on, but then back off immediately after the startup screen.
I guess it will be another RMA, as I lack the capacity to repair it myself as I am brain damaged, but Hotcig is ruining the DNA200's name unfortunately, the V1 did not work correctly when it arrived and completely failed after a few days, Evolv fixed it and its going strong-so I know it is NOT evolv's fault-and my Efusion DNA200 also works flawlessly from the day I had it. -
I wanted to add- I had already charged VIA USB twice not knowing it needed soldering, as the hotcig instrucions did not mention this.
If I DO continue to use USB charging, what will happen-if anything?
The battery is selected as a 2S Li-PO, so I imagine it would just send power to a cell that is not there?
Would this possibly cause any damage to the DNA200, as I want to use USB charging Ideally, but if I shouldn't continue using this method, I will use an external charger.
Thanks everyone.
EDIT: I mean if I continue to charge via USB without bridging the middle pins on the rear of the balance tap-like I said I have charged it twice already not knowing, and it has charged fine to full capacity, so can I continue to use the USB charging without bridging the pins or will it damage the device?
I kind of need to know-as the battery is nearly flat and I don't know wether to swap out the batteries or continue charging with USB.
I think I WILL be able to simply bridge the two pins if I am honest, I just don't want to ruin a perfectly working device
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Ahh OK-I was not aware of this-it is a hotcig V1 that Evolv made work for me (Seriously-Hotcig gave me a free V2 for all the hassle and now that has messed up-kind gesture, but it is ruining evolvs name).
They was selling the enclosures, I had to get it directly from them, I did ask them but they didn't even know what Watt hours were when I spoke to them.
I don't really want to take apart my working DNA200-my soldering skills are not what they used to be after the damage.
Can I use an alternate method then-just swap dead for live batteries, being very careful of polarity?
I have a lot of batteries, over 25 18650's, and I have an extra set that are not used/married yet-I could keep them to switch into this, and the set that is currently in there also?
Or is the soldering of the pins on the balance connector a must?
Thank you for your help Nick. -
Hello.
I have converted one of my DNA200's to run on two 25R's.
I changed the settings from 3S Lipo to 2S lipo-as I understand it is the same voltage as a 2S lipo, I gathered this is correct.
Would someone be able to clarify I have set it up correctly?
I also changed the watt hours to 18.5-I just don't have a battery curve, just a straight line from 4.2V down to 3.1V.
Thanks everyone for your help-Conan.
EDIT: I also wanted to check that I can still use USB charging with dual 18650's. I have an external charger, but am worried I would accidentally reverse polarity due to my brain damage, so would like to use USB charging if possible. -
OK-I have reinstalled Escribe, reset to evolv standard,still doing the same thing-but checking on an external charger both fullymax Lipos are in balance, and also with a multimeter on the balance ports.
But I KNOW it is something to do with escribe, as I made the perfectly good V1 (repaired by evolv, faulty on arrival) do the same thing with the V2's settings, but I simply changed them back, and all was fine, then set it up for dual 18650's.
The V2 however, I can not simply change the settings and it is back to normal like the V1.
So, I replicated the issue in the V1 by using the settings for the V2-but if I change the settings in the V2 to one that works fine on the V1, same issue occurs.
I DID have a leaking issue and juice got down into the tiny gap between battery housing and front of device, BUT this was weeks before the issue started. I have cleaned the pins to no avail.
Really am stumped.
EDIT: Hang on, I do not know what the hell I did, but it is reading all 3 cells in balance.
This happened once before though-but I really hope this time it is sorted. -
Gm111 said:
[QUOTE=Conanthewarrior][QUOTE=VapingBad]Check your settings, maybe clean the balance connector pins with some IPA or meths and a pipe-cleaner or dental gap brush (disconnect the battery completely first). If they are in balance the the DNA will charge them fine, it will charge unbalanced batteries just slowly.
I think cleaning the pins are the last shot-but I KNOW its a setting as when put onto the V1 Inadverdantly, it done the EXACT same as the V2-reading the battery 1/4 full, jumping about in Escribe.
I have completely wiped the device and reset to evolv standard, still the same, so uploaded the actual hotcig settings file from them, still the same issue! But, when that software went onto the V1, it was the same issue, so it must be something in settings or escribe itself.
I have checked everything, and all seems correct.
Maybe a fresh install of Escribe as I know it is firmware related, or do you not think that will help?
I really am stumped-I double checked the batteries by removing from their enclosure, and sure enough, they were all balanced, 3.98V a cell(one battery), Fullymax batteries.
It seems Escribe is functioning incorrectly, but with only ONE out of 3 devices. It will not allow mains Charging past 1/4 either with 2 Li-PO's that I KNOW to be fine. :s
Really, really am stumped as I know its not RMA time due to it happening to the V1 before I set a custom profile for the dual 18650's, reading correctly BTW and performing great for my needs-133W is well enough for me, and very happy with the result-only thing is I wanted to convert the V2 as it has a nicer finish-but even with 2 cell selected it was reading 1/4 charge on fully charged 18650's.
[/QUOTE] Can you send your escribe file for the v2 see if we can spot anything.. I believe you said you tried your v1 settings on the v2 (without reading through again) ? It sounds like warranty service without the message.. Have you checked your pins are all secure on the jst plug on the board side?[/QUOTE]
Hi, I havent opened the unit up, but checked the outside pins, as it is the hotcig with the interchangeable LI-Pos, I didn't want to open up the V2, BUT as the EXACT same thing happened when the V2 setup file was loaded onto the V1 and the V1 did the same, it MUST be to do with that setup.
Where should I send the file too so you can take a look?
Thank you for the help by the way, I really do appreciate it.
Conan. -
VapingBad said:
Check your settings, maybe clean the balance connector pins with some IPA or meths and a pipe-cleaner or dental gap brush (disconnect the battery completely first). If they are in balance the the DNA will charge them fine, it will charge unbalanced batteries just slowly.
I think cleaning the pins are the last shot-but I KNOW its a setting as when put onto the V1 Inadverdantly, it done the EXACT same as the V2-reading the battery 1/4 full, jumping about in Escribe.
I have completely wiped the device and reset to evolv standard, still the same, so uploaded the actual hotcig settings file from them, still the same issue! But, when that software went onto the V1, it was the same issue, so it must be something in settings or escribe itself.
I have checked everything, and all seems correct.
Maybe a fresh install of Escribe as I know it is firmware related, or do you not think that will help?
I really am stumped-I double checked the batteries by removing from their enclosure, and sure enough, they were all balanced, 3.98V a cell(one battery), Fullymax batteries.
It seems Escribe is functioning incorrectly, but with only ONE out of 3 devices. It will not allow mains Charging past 1/4 either with 2 Li-PO's that I KNOW to be fine. :s
Really, really am stumped as I know its not RMA time due to it happening to the V1 before I set a custom profile for the dual 18650's, reading correctly BTW and performing great for my needs-133W is well enough for me, and very happy with the result-only thing is I wanted to convert the V2 as it has a nicer finish-but even with 2 cell selected it was reading 1/4 charge on fully charged 18650's.
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VapingBad said:
The best would be to charge the cells to the same level externally if you can, in this video the guy makes a lead to do it via the balance plug and you could do a single cell from a standard 18650 charger just make sure all the wires are secure.
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wIbHLacozFo[/video]
That was my plan-I ordered a IMax B6 charger that came today, but unfortunately due to the hotcigs battery design, I can not connect both balance plugs and positive and negative so can not use it.
The thing is-the batteries ARE in balance, as I tested them on my Evolv repaired hotcig V1 and they were fine and showed full charge-but on the V2 it shows out of balance and 1/4 charged.
I changed my V1 to a dual 18650 device, on doing so somehow the hotcig V2 settings got on to the V1-same problem occured-but I have got it working correctly now with dual 18650's.
But it was having the same problems as the V2-so it MUST be a setting, even out of escribe it was reading a known good battery, that seconds before was fully charged-as 1/4 full and out of balance, but it is NOT out of balance, I have checked with a multimeter.
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Hi people.
You may remember my horcig V2 was not charging the battery proberly, showing it out of balance, but if I put it on the V1 it was fine, and the V1 battery did the same on the V2.
Well-today I got an 18650 enclosure for the hotcig, and realised it must be the profiles-as I accidently loaded the V2's onto the V1 and it is also doing it.
I am using a 10 W/H Lipo for one, and want to run the others on dual 18650's (25'rs).
I have managed to set up the battery meter for the V1 changing it to 2 cell, entering the W/h's and creating a custom discharge profile that seems to be on point.
I now understand the v2 must have the complete wrong settings for my v1 to do it with the V2's settings accidently uploaded, so I do not believe there is ANYTHING wrong with it.
So my question is-how do I get it to read the battery correctly again, as it reads two known to be good LI-Pos as bad, and shows a 1/4 bar of battery when it is fully charged.
Any help would be much appreciated, I have obviously got myself confused and messed up the settings of the V2 some how, how do I get it back to reading the 10W/H lipo correctly, as I know its a setting due to the problem being replicated in the fine working V1 when I accidently put the V2's settings on to it, and it had the same problem-a full Li-Po was showing 1/4 charge and battery out of balance.
Thank you all for your help, Conan. -
OK-there is 100% a problem with the device.
I am using a dual 18650 setup now, and it is still reading it completely wrong.
RMA time. -
I feel like such an idiot.
It has charged fine, I tried a different USB lead and it charged fine, but it still leads the question as to why it was reading a GOOD battery bad even out of Escribe?
Feel free to slap me now.
I hope it was just a hiccup and it was simply the lead, I was using different leads for different devices. My thinking patterns aren't the same anymore, I am brain damaged, but I feel such a fool.
If it does play up however-I will write in this thread, but I have a gut feeling it wont now. -
OK-this seems to be intermittent-it is now reading cell 1 at 3.98V, cell 2 at 3.87 and cell 3 at 3.87V.
Maybe this issue will solve itself I hope-I am converting it to dual 18650's anyway, so hopefully it will work OK with that. -
So to clarify, this is the issue, sorry I may not be good with words now:
My hotcig v2, it was fine but now it is reading batteries out of balance and not charged-while on the v1 in escribe the same battery reads as fully charged and balanced.
This is the case for both batteries, and I KNOW the battery for the V1 is fine as I use it-but it is also read as out of balance severely and not charged. It only charges up to around 2.5 W/h's and stops charging-this is the point it is actually fully charged, but on the mains or escribe it reads out of balance and I can only use a 1/4 of the battery, if on the v1 I can use it all. -
Ahh-I have realised something, it seems to be recognizing the v2 as the V1 in escribe, the efusion is fine, but not the hotcig-is this why I am having battery issues as it thinks the same device is being put in straight after a charge, causing the balance issues of the V2?
EDIT: Nope, not that, it is recognising them as different devices. I only replied here as I have started another thread as there seems to be an issue with my hotcig v2, it was fine but now it is reading batteries out of balance and not charged-while on the v1 in escribe the same battery reads as fully charged and balanced. -
Hotcig-I did try with them at first, they are a NIGHTMARE. They did give me this one though, so I can not fault them on that account-but their customer service is terrible, lie upon lie with the V1, which is another reason I think I got the V2 sent to me.
They are in China, I did not pay for it-it was a gesture as now it can be purchased for half the price I bought it at, so I don't trust sending to them-for instance 'Bennett' from hotcig has sent me two 18650 enclosures, telling me it will save me and my friend a lot of money on shipping and customs charges, for it to end up costing us more than getting them individually.
So I don't really want to deal with them if I am honest-it will just be weeks of lies and half truths again, and I can't take that. I am not too well up top due to some damage I sustained and all the hassle really messed me up last time.
I was wondering though-If I just use it for the 18650 enclosure, and just swap discharged for charged batteries out instead of charging-would that be a workaround that is OK?
I would obviously change it to 2 cell in Escribe, just thinking of a way to do it, and if the 18650 enclosure can just swap batteries out easily, and works, I will do that.
They turn up on Tuesday according to DHL, so do you think its worth the wait to see if it works OK on that-like I CAN use the device-it is just in escribe it is all over the place, but I can charge it on the mains using a 5V 1A USB charger, and then it works-albeit if I leave it overnight, it reads that the battery has gone out of balance, when it in fact, has not. -
I would like to add I have not opened this one, the seals are still intact from hotcig. I just do not understand why it was working, but now two good batteries are reading that they are bad on the V2, while on the v1 they are fine and functioning as they should, both batteries.
I have only been charging this device and using it, and added in a SS profile.
Just baffled as to why this would happen-and is there anything I can try before sending it to the USA for repair.
Both batteries are the newer fullymax ones, not the old ones, and by trying the V1's battery(which is actually a v2 but on a v1 device) I knew to be fine with the same result, I know it is the actual device.
There is either a bad connection at the balance port-I don't know if maybe the pins are making bad contact, or something else going on. -
Hi people.
You may remember the nightmare I had with the hotcig v1, which I sent to evolv for repair.
Well, hotcig sent me a V2 out, that at first worked great.
But, now in device monitor it is ALL over the place, with voltage jumping from 3.3 up to 3.7 then back down and everywhere in between, cell 1 reads at 3.9 then jumps to 4.12V, and so on.
I thought it was the battery-untill I put the battery on my hotcig V1 to find it perfectly in balance, and working fine, and the battery I know to be fine also reading like crazy on the v2.
So, I got the v2, I have only removed the battery to do this, and it is a known good battery (well I now know both are good).
Any ideas if there is anything I can do-I have reflashed the firmware and reset to hotcig standard and done a hard reboot on the V2, or does this one also need to be RMA'd?
I have the efusion-that has been perfect.
But the hotcig v1 was unuseable until Evolv repaired it, and it has worked fine since-now I am worried the V2, that I got for free due to the problems with the V1, also needs to be RMA'd.
If it does, I have the V1 repaired by evolv and the efusion to use though, so would be OK.
So, is there anything I can try, or is it RMA time again from the UK to the USA?
Thanks everyone, Conan. -
steamer861 said:
Is this project even worth anyones time? I could see if you were making some thing unique or some thing thats not readily available out there.
These mods are available for purchase with a DNA 200, Why buy the cheep mod, a chip and do all this modding, to save 25 bucks?
Complete waste of time IMO. Just buy one with a DNA200
I REALLY want the DNA200 version-but in the UK, it seems nobody can get them. I had one on preorder at vapegeek-and his vendor sent him the RX200's instead. He sent them straight back as he had payed for DNA200 Wismecs.
If anyone knows where I can get one in the UK, I would be very, very happy if you could let me know where.
Wismec LG HE4 advice.
in Batteries and Charging
Posted
I will be honest-the reason I have not run the anylyzer is because I do not have any resistors to do the test.
Is there another way I can safely do this test?
For example, running the test with 22 gauge large loops of kanthal?
Also, I was a bit worried about running the test, as it is a constant firing basically isn't it? I was thinking with 3 18650's in there, running the test might be dangerous on the batteries.
What power does it pull from the batteries during the test? As I know it is a regulated device, and would set a discharge profile for these very batteries, but I would not want an accident to happen, not because of my device but I did not want to risk an explosion in my house. I understand that the battery anylyzer probably does not pull more than their constant 20A rating?
So-if anyone can tell me how to safely run the test, and what I can use in place of resistors (I can always order some resistors if it is really necessary)?
I will say-I have not yet drained the batteries from the time I made this post. I own 16 regulated devices, 4 of which are DNA200's, so I use more than one device.
But-it seems like the meter is more accurate now I have changed the watt hours-I really need to run it to flat though to find out if it is close enough for my liking-if not, I want to safely run the battery anylyzer test.
I guess it will take around 30 minutes or so of constant firing? Or is it a lot faster than this?
Thank you everyone for your help, Conan.