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mikepetro

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Posts posted by mikepetro

  1. 4 hours ago, TKnapa said:

    I have spent the last few months testing a bunch of LiPo packs, but mostly testing the high drain 18650 and every 20700, 21700, 20650 that I can buy, including the elusive 20700A. I've only missed the Samsung 30T.  Some tests have been using the large heatsink with high quality 1 ohm resistors. I've also done quite a bit of testing with the West Mountain system where I can play around with on/off times (example 5s on/off four times in a row, then a 2 minute off cycle.. kind of like how people vape). 

    I'm just getting ready to automate a system that will duplicate my vaping style (on/off, time between puffs, hours per day vaping, etc). It will switch to a second mod with fresh batteries to simulate a battery change out. It will rest during normal non vaping hours, etc. This is a bit of overkill, except that I can/will use the system as a final QA/QC procedure post manufacturing, and I'm using it to select the best batteries for a specific device.

    Since I'm designing a mod, I've also been measuring cell temperature inside my mod at different ambient temperatures. Also I've tested using different battery contacts.  What I've found in all my testing is that the number I keep coming back to its how many pulses (puffs) before the batteries cannot maintain setpoint (say 100 watts) for 5 seconds.  My test results using Escribe battery analyzer do not match the testing done by Mooch.  Two possible reasons 1) his cells are not contained in a box with other heat generating components, 2) the on/off times are different (10/20 vs 5/30).

    Is there any interest in sharing  battery analyzer  information for Li-ion cells,, similar to the LiPo database? Along with the battery info I think you would find that different devices perform differently, likely due to quality of battery contacts (which vary widely when compared to LiPo packs) plus internal heating /dissipation. So if we get four users posting data for Sony VCT5A's but they have different mods, that could be meaningful device information. With all of the new 20 & 21mm cells coming out a lot of people will be making mod decisions and battery decisions. Data gathered through Escribe, in my opinion will be the best source.

    Tell me what values you want tracked, I can add a "Cylindrical Cell" page to the Lipo database

  2. TKnapa said:

    Question for Mike... The link on the spreadsheet for the ZOP 1500 40C battery goes to a ZOP 1500 mAh 20C . On Fasttech the 40C version is much larger than the 71 x 34 x 23 mm listed on the spreadsheet. Other sellers have very different sizes for a ZOP 1500 40C , Banggood.com lists it at 9.5*34*66MM. The test results are very impressive for the two ZOP 1500 batteries you tested so I really want to order the same one. Any advice?.--- A very big thank you to everyone involved in the testing, very valuable resource--- hoping I can contribute with some "graphene" batteries I'm buying for test.



    All I can tell you is that this is the link I ordered "https://www.fasttech.com/p/3864308" what I got was actually labeled 40C. Never tried to test the actual C rating, I was just happy with the battery analyzer results. Measurements on the SS were taken by myself and dont match the website listing. I chalked it up to "they screwed up".
  3. heady4614 said:

    I have tried to use the factory settings for any of my batteries and I keep getting the low battery warning at 70% this is with my 26650's and my 18650's alike.



    Please post a screen shot of Device Manager after you take a hit that gives the weak bat message.

    In many cases it because of voltage drop. There is so much voltage drop during the preheat that it triggers the message, but once preheat is over you most often find you had enough voltage to satisfy your temperature requirement for the hit.

    In other words, it may not be worth worrying about. Device Manager will tell us
  4. Look  at your cell #3.  Unplug the battery, or at least the JST connector and manually measure the cells.


    If cell #3 is truly 0.8v then replace the battery.
    If cell #3 is more/less normal then RMA the board.

    While battery is out check the fuse.

    I hade one very similar, and the battery worked in another mod just fine. Mine looked like this and fuse was good, I RMAd the bard.

    upload_2016-5-27_20-28-2.png

  5. Lilpetabread said:

    I'm getting "weak battery" when my HG2 18650's are at ~3.7 volts. That's at about 50% on-screen battery life. Is that normal, or are my HG2's just getting old? I do have 18650s set up thru Escribe, and I have preheat off, with a 0.38 316L build at 42 watts.


    Yes, pretty normal. Dont worry about it though. It is probably voltage drop during preheat triggering the "weak bat" message. Take a look at it in Device Manager.
  6. ChunkyButt200 said:

    the coil material shouldn't be the culprit of the weak batt message. i run nife48 wire myself and haven't noticed that specific wire cause any problems for me. my guess is we're going to see a lot people posting about weak battery messages in days and months to come. 18650's will have considerably more sag than lipos. 26650's will have even more. that's why i plan to make a lipo'd 75 mod, or at least a dual 18650 one.  we're asking a lot now from a single battery. maybe ditch the high mah batts and try the LG HB6, HB4, or HB2 - those batts have lower mah but a higher CDR (30 amps).



    The HB6/HB4/HB2 all have nice current capability, and will certainly perform well, but with only 1500mAh it certainly wont last long. Lipo is still the choice for me. A 3000 1S Lipo can still be made into a reasonably small mod.
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