Uwell Crown tank problems on dna 133

[Swainesmatee]

I have a vt133 and i've had what i considered problems with my crown tank since day 1. WHen I attach the atty ill see the correct ohms reading for a flashof a second itll flat 0.25 or 0.24 (for ss coils then settle at 0.29). Thats ok i can accomodate for that with wattage. Still not sure why. I figured it was thess coils with nickell egs


Well I am trying to run the nickel 0.15 coil and it clocks in at 0.24 cold. I can run it like that and im not sure that the temp readouts are or are not accurate.

What is going on here?

Also i set my mod resistance using one of those dna calibration copper pins you screw in but my kanthal readings will be off by 0.01 to 0.02 compared to my other non dna ohms readers and independent cheapo chinese ohms reader.

The real issue is the crown tank, i have my heart set on it, ive used it since cyber monday, its a powerhouse never gives me problems and i refill like 4x a day.

Should I get a different tank, do these tanks act funky? WHy is it tha tI see the correct ohms flash for a millisecond sometimes when i attach an atty for instance in wattage mode the ss atty willl read 0.24 then instantly go to 0.29

But this ni200 is a proble (maybe). Im just dialing it in starging lower with wattage and temp to accomodate the variance but im not sure i should be, is this some tpye of internal calculation?

Does anyone with a crown and dna75/133/200 actually get 0.15 ni200, or 0.25 ss316 ohms readings on their cols?

[dwcraig1]

If your only having a problem with this atty it probably has a bad connection due to the sliding positive pin and how strong the spring in the mods 510 is/isn't. I've had similar problems with my Kanger Subtank, on it I built up the end of the sliding positive pin with silver solder and put it back in upside down.
You might try just pushing the atty's positive pin inward prior to screwing it on the mod, that just might be enough.

[Swainesmatee]

dwcraig1 said:

If your only having a problem with this atty it probably has a bad connection due to the sliding positive pin and how strong the spring in the mods 510 is/isn't. I've had similar problems with my Kanger Subtank, on it I built up the end of the sliding positive pin with silver solder and put it back in upside down.
You might try just pushing the atty's positive pin inward prior to screwing it on the mod, that just might be enough.

Your right in many ways becuase on my sigelei 150tc ive noticed sometimes itd read 0.27 intead of 0.24 and i would take th eatty off and just push the pin in to make nbetter contact, or id pull the coil do a whole clean.

BUt this is a brand new coil, all 510 pins, insulators, coil base was cleaned with iso, i bottomed the 510 pin to the shoulder so the coil would make contact and push it out to the machined length it should be.

Whats odd is i see ethe right ohms for a second, i dont have anythign locked excep tthat its temp mode.

Of course i could lock it in 0.15 but what would be the purpose if its really thinkign its 0.23

[dwcraig1]

Atomizer Analyzer could help sort this to some extent. Screw on atty, connect to EScribe/Atomizer Analyzer and start to loosen the atty. Just llosen a tiny bit and wait till it reads and go a bit more. If you loose the connection almost  immediately then you'll have your answer. 

[Swainesmatee]

I do not loose the connection quickly when unscrewing and the resistance is stable albeit .2 not .15. is the extra .5 the atomizer?

[dwcraig1]

On an atty when in doubt I secure a piece of solid copper wire in place of the coil (post to post) and read it with atomizer analyzer. Of coarse with a disposable head this is not possible.
I expect to see no more than 0.02? hopfully

[dwcraig1]

Swainesmatee said:

I do not loose the connection quickly when unscrewing and the resistance is stable albeit .2 not .15. is the extra .5 the atomizer?

I believe you mean 0.05?