franticseven
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Posts posted by franticseven
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1 hour ago, Wayneo said:
Just popping in and out again, and apologies if you already realized this.
Boost works at the start of a puff.
Warmth is only activated if Replay is enabled. You really won't notice warmth unless you only activated Replay near the end of a session and allowed the coil to cool down.No worries, appreciate the advice.just raises more questions.
boost is off; personal preference it doesn't have to get hot ASAP, I've had no insane wish to sear my throat for a decade.
replay is currently off, so no TC until you activate replay? Or can't you control temp via warmth on a scale of 0-10 before you vape?
am i just being odd by trusting my puff/draw but relying on the board not to allow the coil to burn? Because PP..no boost, mid-warmth and no replay is about as acceptably 'middle of the road' as i have got. 👍👎
without replay am I running SS in watts ? But with dry hit/fill pod in reserve
So if the issue may be setting replay 'warm'..surely thats the idea 'to replay', you have a few puffs find your prefered sweet-spot and set replay. Then once cooled down the repeated puffs ..aren't. Actually rather (and increasingly) weak and unsatisfying.
Now we've gone from questioning ohms to is replay actually working all of the time? is the replay 'confused' by live, warm and cold ohms?
Does replay need to be set every session but 'cold' ?
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yes I have the SS coil 1w higher, I'm trying to find a comparable sweet spot with two different juices.
Crazy yeah? But how many pods do I want to use to fine tune the device? It's about £3 ( $4 ) a pod and I'm (£12) $16 in already because the pods are prone to swallowing the bungs.
todays SS puffs, no boost, warm 4, I'm back to my first adjusted settings.
I'm gonna be on my ass if I keep puffing away looking at the screen🤣
zero boost zero warm
zero boost warm 4
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Oh the juices, I've given the pods plenty of time to saturate, an hour+ and I'm not taking long puffs in an attempt to kid myself that it's comparable with a couple of framed staples in an RTDA @ 65w.
Nor have I vaped a pod to the point of needing replacement..I've seen the state of premade coils that people will endure 🤮 Kinda expect the usual..best flavour shortly before the cotton cries 'nuff' but don't think I've got there.
no fault of Evolve but the only two I've had to replace are because the poxy bung has pushed in and the keyhole surgery has been unsucessful.
1) DIY dessert type flavouring 15% , 50/50 no other dilutant..actually 53% PG after nicitine adjustment. Much better with Kanthal
2) & 3) T-Juice Red Astaire & a Ley Lime again 50/50 15% concentrate..up to 20% recomended. Made them as an experiment , mostly to see if I needed a more 'in your face ' juice.
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Ws confused by the discrepency in resistances now I'm just disappointed in the performance of the 0.6 ohm (0.35) coil. And tbh designing an element/coil with similar thermal properties and labelling it 'comparative ohms' doesn't work for me. Vapes like the resistance is too low.
Can't blame the board for the coil design.
Power delivery has been fine and vape has been smooth in mid power range ( for a low resistance/ fast reacting coil in a tiny chimney) anywhere above that and boost cooks the juice and TC throttles back all too soon.
Not ideal running over 0.3ohms cold particularly other mods (I'm going back 10+ years lol) which struggled to function with SS at higher warm resistances but in the past I have used 0.5ohm SS with single coil RTAs and come closer to kanthal / nichrome performance.
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I don't doubt the science behind the boards set-up and operation, simple to say that the only regulated mods I have purchased for the last 10 years have been Evolve DNA equiped.
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wow, I've never looked at Ecigstats in 10+ years that I've used DNAs.
I don't believe I've had a dry coil event 1200 odd puffs to got through, the Xlim registered a 'fill pod'..I remember it clearly but it wasn't empty. Pod in pod out.
Doesn't seem to 'remember' the replay setting every time it comes out of idle, no great inconvenience
Also had the device fail to wake up today, thought the battery had gone flat but it woke up when I plugged in the USB. Still at 87%. Must remember to remove the pod to prevent sampling from running it down? Same issue with Steamcrave 4S 250C which wasn't recomended to be updated ..guess what? drain got worse..
I actually bought a few packets of SS and just the one pack of Kanthal. Was almost satisfied with SS at 17-18w , really need replay for the SS too, puff,puff,puff .
Got that the wrong way around, now I've tried both materials I prefer the Kanthal, 0.6 ohms@17w better flavour. The SS coil is bland, strangled, Compare those ohms? The thermal dynamics aren't the same..🙃
Screenshot of change over from 0.6ohm stainless pod & first use of 0.6ohm Kanthal pod.
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ah yes, found the 'equivalent ohms' icon in display colour schemes, tbh as I don't mess about with colour schemes or icons so I didn't look further. Just took it out of stealth mode..or not😁
I thought that was to denote SS / anti-burn. still 0.33 is not ~ 0.6, thats like saying cat = dog because it has fur and four legs.
thanks for the help sure I'll work it out as I go along, just trying to work out whether I need more 0.6s or should buy a selection 0.4/0.6 SS and a comparative 0.6 kanthal..Be a damned shame if the kanthal turns out to give a better vape.
BTW, made up my usual ADV in 50/50 dessert & strawberry..would perhaps benefit from more flavouring or just the wrong way to go?
I have two more steeping, @20% conc, an old bottle of Red Astaire and some key lime,
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1 hour ago, Wayneo said:
I do the opposite. I leave my warmth at 2 or 3, and adjust my boost. I'm running my 0.6Ω pod right now at 15 watts
👍that works too
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1 hour ago, Wayneo said:
It's a pod
I know, I wasn't expecting huge clouds or flavour thick enough to chew on, I bought it so that i could have a nicotine hit in the beer gardens without lugging around what my mate calls 'the hand-grenade'. I was hoping for a bit more than say a Kayfun with a 2mm coil that needed re-wicking
1 hour ago, Wayneo said:I do the opposite. I leave my warmth at 2 or 3, and adjust my boost. I'm running my 0.6Ω pod right now at 15 watts.
yes, as I'm found out definitely a device where less is more👍
I'll try your setting.
50 minutes ago, Wayneo said:That's 100% correct, as shown by Atomizer Analyzer. Did you really believe all these pods from all the manufacturers build to such exacting standards.
um yeah, the manufacturers have been making replacement coils for atomizers for over a decade with fairly reasonable accuracy.
i was kinda expecting a ~0.6 ohm pod
52 minutes ago, Wayneo said:If you look really carefully at that Ω symbol you'll notice a little squiggly through it. Those are equivalent ohms. They vape very similarly to the regular OXVA .6Ω pods.
spits out tea 'equivalent ohms'
On the mod or the pod? I have my PC running through my TV..ain't no squiggle there.
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Gone to the opposite end of the scale from my usual table top DNA 250C, RTDAs and RDAs.
The replay works, the 'anti-burn' works but all things considered the vapour and flavour is very disappointing.
I've never been great a fan of SS coils, but the 0.6ohm pod vapes like it's overpowered on boost but throttles off too soon for warm flavour.
I've plugged it into E-scribe, adjusted the wattage (18w), boost (zero) and warmth (7) until I get the flavour and temperature near enough.
So the Xlim registers a 0.6 ohm coil, my multi-meter reads 0.6 ohms but E-scribe reads the cold resistance from as low as 0.28 to an average of 0.33.
In developer mode, the preset for SS 0.6 ohm pod shows min resistance 0.27 to a max of 0.47.
Something can't be right?
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Thanks for the fast reply, perhaps the timer update is locked once upgraded?
yes, its was supplied with SP33 and is recommended - but it's tiny.
Nothing in the manual besides disconnecting when out of use long term to prevent total discharge on idle
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After 12 months without a big DNA mod Black Friday reared it's head and I picked up a Hadron Pro for £90 / $120.
Read the instruction manual, connected to Escribe. Made sure that the power pack was charging evenly on device manager and waited patiently for 1A charge.
The first full charge ldropped to 50% after 12 hours at 50w. Ii'm happy my dual 18650/21700s mods would be on the second or third set by then.
So....checked the cells again and recharged on a 2A plug in,
Curiosity got the better of me and I made the golden error? of updating the firmware.to SP45 INT.
No idea what the difference is between the two as I can't find a listing but battery drop has increased...EDIT minus.5% overnight
Then on the next charge I read the very small print on the side plate....not just a battery safety warning.
Use Firmware 1.1SP33 TO save battery life with less idle discharge. This firmware is preferred for battery longevity
So I reset the firmware and battery drop is still faster 2-5%.
I remember a few years ago I updated a DNA 200 and there was a universal update that changed the core settings and couldn't be reversed ...is this the same?
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Hi VB.
The attty 510 screws and positive posts are clean and tight, one of the first things I checked. I've got 5 of them in clean rotation and spare decks., Other DNA mods read the slightly higher resistance with the same atomisers. My thought is that the initial base reading being false is confusing the mod ie ; in TC the 'true' res is already over the dynamic throttle point.
Cant work out why its lagging/misfiring in power mode too, only pulling 12A
BTW There's no need for boost and preheat is disabled so TC isn't overheating and throttling too quickly,
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13 hours ago, retird said:
or cockpit trouble? ... just kidding😊........ but I like to vape simple and only use throw away coils and Notch Coils.... been through the gambit in the 9 years I've been vaping and we each should vape what and how we like... and should hesitate throwing barbs like " PITFA nanny/safety feature for newbs who simply screw in a new throwaway coil and never learnt to check new builds for shorts on a tester" .... surely you were jesting.....
Hope you get it figured out..... 😊
lol I don't ask for help or cry foul if I haven't gone over and over the problem. Very true...often it is the idjut with the finger on the button.
Many a true word said in jest, I was a 'newb' made mistakes but sometimes safety features can be a little over protective?
Been vaping coming up for six years, passsed the 'bug' through the family. Also appear to be the only one that can be bothered to make his own coils and doesn't walk around with loose batteries in his pocket
2 hours ago, Wayneo said:The colour boards operate differently compared to the non colour boards. After working out hotspots, etc. as I already said, re-read the atty while on the mod (Kanthal/NiCr). How much of a lower resistance and what kind of atty with that NiCr coil? I'm hoping you're checking stability using 'Atomizer Analyzer'?
What do you mean it lags?
What version of firmware is on your mod?
PS It's hard to separate the wheat from the chaff in your posts. And that was four (4) questions I asked.
I'm full of chaff 🤣perhaps you should drop the bold type, its condescending and instead of Hello or I'm sorry I don't understand your post....simply open with:
yes I use the Atomiser Analyzer and a nice big chunk of threaded copper to check the internal resistance
Steamcrave V2, new decks tried, new screws, clean 510
between 0.06 and 0.09, so maybe 20-25% of the displayed resistance?
lags, hesitates, is slow to fire, like having flat batteries or the wrong resistance locked in. Shall I ....um.....errr.........fire? FIRE!
As previously said it reminds me of the V1 software on the Evic mini, there was a widespread issue where the mod wouldn't hold a constant base resistance. Hot-cold firing. Vigorously denied / ignored by Joyetech of course.
Each time I've had a play with the mod I've uploaded the latest version offered by E-scribe. Currently 1.1 V38 international
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On 6/16/2019 at 2:23 PM, Wayneo said:
YOU need to read and set the resistance in each profile you're using that coil. New coil, or not
That alone might fix the majority of your issues.
as I said 'it reads under on resistance, constantly but won't register the correct res even if the atty is removed and re-set.'
yes I get that bit, you have to confirm the resistance of each coil new or old; unlike the DNA200 which usually automatically reads and sets the base resistance if its within the pre-defined % perameter. Also if you fire-remove the atty, put the warm TC coil back on the DNA200 you're asked new/old.
The TVF 250/300C doesn't appear to allow any deviation, burn and pinch in a Kanthal or NiChrome coil and when the resistance changes...it asks new or old resistance.
Must be a PITFA nanny/safety feature for newbs who simply screw in a new throwaway coil and never learnt to check new builds for shorts on a tester?
But my issue is that it lags, compared to other DNAs it reads a lower resistance AND appears to waver AS IF it cant differentiate between actual and displayed. A base resistance error?
Escribe shows no atomiser instability, theres no unbalanced sag under load, coils are twisted .30 ( 0.23 ohm SS316 & 0.35 ohm NiCr ) so not super low or overly heavy.
So ? Weak solder..loose earth.... iffy fire button.. 510?...software...board? A dismal mod?
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I bought one last year after my Realeaux died, can't say that I was taken by the screen, menu, changes to the accessibility of e-scribe and the way that (this particular mod at least) the new/old coil recognition made burning in a Kanthal/Ni-Chr coil so damned difficult.
A few hours on escribe and at best its certainly nowhere near as good as the 200 it was supposed to replace.
So two more of my old dna200s have since died and I'm back to using this POS,the issues ...
it reads under on resistance, constantly but won't register the correct res even if the atty is removed and re-set.
it lags, even in boost it'll show resistance, power setting but no voltage : it ttakes a couple of presses to get it firing. Kanthal or TC, reminds me of the vtc-minis inability to set its base resistance .
Batteries are new K-sony vtc-5s, battery profile was set, 510 is clean
Earth-negative issues or really truly a bad mod and strangled board?
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many thanks👍
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I have a Simeyue DNA200 that has a dead #2 cell, the fuse looks ok and apart from a 'service warranty. message that hasn't popped up since it appears to be ok on escribe
its soldered in so cutting the wires.....which one first?
Positve? Negative?.....charge balance?
will need to find a new cell with connectors that fits in the enclosure and maybe a tap......but otherwise I'm hoping that I can get this back up and running
cheers Steve
Oxva Xlim Pro 2 DNA resistance issues.
in Oxva Pro 2 DNA
Posted
no, and I've cleaned both sets of contacts with brake cleaner on a cotton bud (IPA leaves a faint residual mark)..not dragged the pod over dirty jeans or stuffed a tissue in the device lol.