franticseven

ah yes, found the 'equivalent ohms' icon in display colour schemes, tbh as I don't mess about with colour schemes or icons so I didn't look further. Just took it out of stealth mode..or not😁 I thought that was to denote SS / anti-burn. still 0.33 is not ~ 0.6, thats like saying cat = dog because it has fur and four legs. thanks for the help sure I'll work it out as I go along, just trying to work out whether I need more 0.6s or should buy a selection 0.4/0.6 SS and a comparative 0.6 kanthal..Be a damned shame if the kanthal turns out to give a better vape. BTW, made up my usual ADV in 50/50 dessert & strawberry..would perhaps benefit from more flavouring or just the wrong way to go? I have two more steeping, @20% conc, an old bottle of Red Astaire and some key lime,

👍that works too

I know, I wasn't expecting huge clouds or flavour thick enough to chew on, I bought it so that i could have a nicotine hit in the beer gardens without lugging around what my mate calls 'the hand-grenade'. I was hoping for a bit more than say a Kayfun with a 2mm coil that needed re-wicking yes, as I'm found out definitely a device where less is more👍 I'll try your setting. um yeah, the manufacturers have been making replacement coils for atomizers for over a decade with fairly reasonable accuracy. i was kinda expecting a ~0.6 ohm pod spits out tea 'equivalent ohms' On the mod or the pod? I have my PC running through my TV..ain't no squiggle there.

Gone to the opposite end of the scale from my usual table top DNA 250C, RTDAs and RDAs. The replay works, the 'anti-burn' works but all things considered the vapour and flavour is very disappointing. I've never been great a fan of SS coils, but the 0.6ohm pod vapes like it's overpowered on boost but throttles off too soon for warm flavour. I've plugged it into E-scribe, adjusted the wattage (18w), boost (zero) and warmth (7) until I get the flavour and temperature near enough. So the Xlim registers a 0.6 ohm coil, my multi-meter reads 0.6 ohms but E-scribe reads the cold resistance from as low as 0.28 to an average of 0.33. In developer mode, the preset for SS 0.6 ohm pod shows min resistance 0.27 to a max of 0.47. Something can't be right?

Thanks for the fast reply, perhaps the timer update is locked once upgraded? yes, its was supplied with SP33 and is recommended - but it's tiny. Nothing in the manual besides disconnecting when out of use long term to prevent total discharge on idle

After 12 months without a big DNA mod Black Friday reared it's head and I picked up a Hadron Pro for £90 / $120. Read the instruction manual, connected to Escribe. Made sure that the power pack was charging evenly on device manager and waited patiently for 1A charge. The first full charge ldropped to 50% after 12 hours at 50w. Ii'm happy my dual 18650/21700s mods would be on the second or third set by then. So....checked the cells again and recharged on a 2A plug in, Curiosity got the better of me and I made the golden error? of updating the firmware.to SP45 INT. No idea what the difference is between the two as I can't find a listing but battery drop has increased...EDIT minus.5% overnight Then on the next charge I read the very small print on the side plate....not just a battery safety warning. Use Firmware 1.1SP33 TO save battery life with less idle discharge. This firmware is preferred for battery longevity So I reset the firmware and battery drop is still faster 2-5%. I remember a few years ago I updated a DNA 200 and there was a universal update that changed the core settings and couldn't be reversed ...is this the same?

Hi VB. The attty 510 screws and positive posts are clean and tight, one of the first things I checked. I've got 5 of them in clean rotation and spare decks., Other DNA mods read the slightly higher resistance with the same atomisers. My thought is that the initial base reading being false is confusing the mod ie ; in TC the 'true' res is already over the dynamic throttle point. Cant work out why its lagging/misfiring in power mode too, only pulling 12A BTW There's no need for boost and preheat is disabled so TC isn't overheating and throttling too quickly,

lol I don't ask for help or cry foul if I haven't gone over and over the problem. Very true...often it is the idjut with the finger on the button. Many a true word said in jest, I was a 'newb' made mistakes but sometimes safety features can be a little over protective? Been vaping coming up for six years, passsed the 'bug' through the family. Also appear to be the only one that can be bothered to make his own coils and doesn't walk around with loose batteries in his pocket I'm full of chaff 🤣perhaps you should drop the bold type, its condescending and instead of Hello or I'm sorry I don't understand your post....simply open with: yes I use the Atomiser Analyzer and a nice big chunk of threaded copper to check the internal resistance Steamcrave V2, new decks tried, new screws, clean 510 between 0.06 and 0.09, so maybe 20-25% of the displayed resistance? lags, hesitates, is slow to fire, like having flat batteries or the wrong resistance locked in. Shall I ....um.....errr.........fire? FIRE! As previously said it reminds me of the V1 software on the Evic mini, there was a widespread issue where the mod wouldn't hold a constant base resistance. Hot-cold firing. Vigorously denied / ignored by Joyetech of course. Each time I've had a play with the mod I've uploaded the latest version offered by E-scribe. Currently 1.1 V38 international

as I said 'it reads under on resistance, constantly but won't register the correct res even if the atty is removed and re-set.' yes I get that bit, you have to confirm the resistance of each coil new or old; unlike the DNA200 which usually automatically reads and sets the base resistance if its within the pre-defined % perameter. Also if you fire-remove the atty, put the warm TC coil back on the DNA200 you're asked new/old. The TVF 250/300C doesn't appear to allow any deviation, burn and pinch in a Kanthal or NiChrome coil and when the resistance changes...it asks new or old resistance. Must be a PITFA nanny/safety feature for newbs who simply screw in a new throwaway coil and never learnt to check new builds for shorts on a tester? But my issue is that it lags, compared to other DNAs it reads a lower resistance AND appears to waver AS IF it cant differentiate between actual and displayed. A base resistance error? Escribe shows no atomiser instability, theres no unbalanced sag under load, coils are twisted .30 ( 0.23 ohm SS316 & 0.35 ohm NiCr ) so not super low or overly heavy. So ? Weak solder..loose earth.... iffy fire button.. 510?...software...board? A dismal mod?

I bought one last year after my Realeaux died, can't say that I was taken by the screen, menu, changes to the accessibility of e-scribe and the way that (this particular mod at least) the new/old coil recognition made burning in a Kanthal/Ni-Chr coil so damned difficult. A few hours on escribe and at best its certainly nowhere near as good as the 200 it was supposed to replace. So two more of my old dna200s have since died and I'm back to using this POS,the issues ... it reads under on resistance, constantly but won't register the correct res even if the atty is removed and re-set. it lags, even in boost it'll show resistance, power setting but no voltage : it ttakes a couple of presses to get it firing. Kanthal or TC, reminds me of the vtc-minis inability to set its base resistance . Batteries are new K-sony vtc-5s, battery profile was set, 510 is clean Earth-negative issues or really truly a bad mod and strangled board?

many thanks👍

I have a Simeyue DNA200 that has a dead #2 cell, the fuse looks ok and apart from a 'service warranty. message that hasn't popped up since it appears to be ok on escribe its soldered in so cutting the wires.....which one first? Positve? Negative?.....charge balance? will need to find a new cell with connectors that fits in the enclosure and maybe a tap......but otherwise I'm hoping that I can get this back up and running cheers Steve