denniz

Yeah I thought about that, I wonder why they changed it.. I find it annoying for a couple of reasons: 1) The VT75D isn't a mod that takes 3 batteries in series, but 2 batteries in parallel, which makes it confusing, especially since the previous version of the Theme Designer displayed it correctly. 2) When making adjustments to the theme it's now annoying since the preview in the Theme Designer shows 12.60V, which is bigger to display then 4.20V on such a small screen. So it's now somewhat more annoying to make fine adjustments in the theme layout without checking the device itself for the end result. See the attached picture where it shows 12.60V, while 4.20V would have fitted perfectly.

Today I updated my Escribe software and the firmware for my HCigar VT75D (using two 18650's) to the latest version. Since then I noticed something changed in the Theme Designer when choosing to show the battery pack voltage. In the previous version of the Theme Designer it showed 4.20V, but now it shows 12.60V. On the VT75D device itself it shows correctly 4.20V. Is this a bug in the Theme Designer? See the attached picture. EScribe Suite 2.0 SP15.1 Firmware: 1.1 SP33.2 INT Sony Konion US18650VTC6 3120mAh 30A

My pleasure, glad it was of use! Also happy holidays everybody! Have a nice 2018!

Hmm, I'm having a bit of trouble getting consistent results. After I made a new coil I also refilled the tank with the 80VG/20PG juice, it wicked a whole lot better then the previous build I mentioned in the beginning of the thread without raising the temp above 230C (446F). I noticed that with a full tank the peak temp stayed well below the set temp, sometimes as much as 20C (68F), although the vape was still very warm and nice. I continued to vape it to see if the peak temp would rise again like it did on my previous build. Since it's a 2ml tank I got my answer quickly enough... I noticed when the tank got emptier and emptier the peak temp would rise more and more. When the juice was just above the juice holes, so it still wicked, then the peak temp was at 240C (464F), while the set temp was still a 230C (446F). I got perfect wicking and a nice vape the whole time from a full to an almost empty tank with the new build. The previous build wasn't very satisfactory wicking wise. Why would the peak temp slowly rise when the tank got emptier? A bit puzzled now... something to do with the vacuum in the tank? In short at what point is a good time to post the graph, at a full, medium or almost empty tank...

Well the default mod resistance it came with was 0.004, a figure I read is totally normal with various mods. From what I read most mods have internal resistances ranging from 0.003 to 0.007. So your figure seems way to high. I think the method you used to measure it was not an accurate measurement, since not all copper wires are created equally regarding the quality. I used the copper plug mentioned in the following thread:

Hmm sorry for that. I just plugged in the individual degrees Celsius into a unit converter to get Fahrenheit, like this: 230C = 446F 3C = 37F So one might indeed think that 233C = 446F + 37F = 483F, while when putting 233C into the unit converter it actually is 451F. Regardless of this, the total degrees I mentioned in previous posts without adding or subtracting stuff are correct.

When I lowered the wattage a couple of watts the temp also overshoots in the same region. I don't know the exact figure anymore, because I just made a new coil to check if that might be the problem. I now made a SS304 coil at 0.723 ohm, 3mm diameter, 0.36mm thick wire. Now the peak temp is between 230C to 237C when I set the temp to 230C on the mod with the wattage at 26W to account for the thicker wire I used this time, with a 80VG/20PG juice. Regardless I will post the measurements you asked for in a bit with the new setup.

I understand that the mod is constantly regulating, but overshooting the temp by more then 10C (50F), sometimes by 15C (59F), I find that a bit to much for my liking. The examples posted by you and Wayneo show much less pronounced peak temp spikes, like a couple of degrees Fahrenheit. While when using a higher VG juice (see my previous post) my mod is overshooting it far more then in your examples! I will run the case analyzer and then try again.

But the thing is the screenshot I posted is taken from Escribe, not from the mod itself. I also noticed another thing just now, I switched juice from 70VG/30PG to a 50VG/50PG juice and now the peak temp is less pronounced, it maxed out at 3C (37F) to 5C (41F) above the set temp at the same settings. That's far more to my liking then overshooting it by more then 10C (50F) like it did with the higher VG juice. Could it be a wicking problem? I find wicking for higher VG juices somewhat annoying, I also find that I have to set the temp higher for high VG juices, more higher then I would like. I would like at most 220C (428F) as the set temp, but for example for 80VG/20PG I often have to set it around 235C (455F) to 240C (464F) to get a satisfying vape.

The average temp I figured out, which indeed includes the ramp up time, but I have pre-heat disabled and the wattage setting at 21W isn't that high for this type of coil. Also why doesn't the real-time temp graph show it hitting that peak temp? See the middle red line.

I recently got my HCigar VT75D and was curious about something. When I look at the device monitor I see a peak temperature of 241C (466F) and an average temperature of 215C (419F). The temperature on the mod is set at 230C (446F). When looking at the real-time temperature graph I never see it hitting that peak temperature, it's mostly somewhere between 227C (441F) and 233C (451F). So how and where does that peak temperature come from and how long does it last? I can reproduce this effect consistently where the temperature off-course varies a bit every time. See the screenshot below. For my example I'm using a simple 3,5mm diameter SS304 coil (0.33mm thick wire), measuring 0.737 ohm in a Merlin mini RTA wicked with Cotton Bacon v2.0, set at a temperature of 230C (446F) with the wattage at 21W, pre-heat is off. The juice is a 70 VG / 30 PG ratio. The coil resistance is not locked. The SS304 profile comes from the Steam-Engine. The mod internal resistance is set at 0.003 ohm measured with a copper plug I bought specifically for this. I haven't run the case thermal analyzer yet. The about box in Escribe says version 2.0 SP5.2. The about box on my mod says firmware 1.1 SP25.

@Wayneo: Hohmtech mods are nice indeed, I got myself a Hohm Slice. According to Ben (Hohmtech's director) they use EPT (Electrical Ping Timing) for accurate temp control. Too bad the customer service really sucks from them.. with there sucky answers leading to nowhere... For those who don't know what EPT is:

I actually think this is gonna be the next step in vaping evolution in e-cigs, thermal sensors to actually measure coil temperature and not simply calculating it through TCR's. I believe vaporizers for vaping with dry herbs, like the Arizer Solo II https://arizer.com/solomenu/ already work this way. I'm curious when thermal sensors are gonna make it's way into e-cigs. Because as things stand now, like pbusardo https://www.youtube.com/user/pbusardo says, it's more like temperature guessing.

I agree with both Wayneo and awsum140, but since the original poster is using factory oem SS coils, I thought my posts were relevant since his symptoms were exactly the same as mine when using Joyetech/Kangertech factory oem coils. Building your own coils is a much better way to go, it gives a more consistent experience.

@Wayneo: Below I quoted myself from something I posted on the NFE Team forum who create the ArcticFox firmware for Joyetech/Eleaf/Wismec mods. To bad not even specific SS alloys are created equally, that would make life a lot easier.

I agree When I got my Joyetech Evic VTwo Mini I always wondered why there manual specifically said to only use Joyetech coils, tanks and mods together and not substitute on of those for another brand. The store where I bought my Joyetech tank (Cubis Pro Mini) said that I could ignore that part of the manual and I could use other tanks on it. Well I now have my answer why Joyetech stated that in the manual. When using there own tank/coils on a non-Joyetech mod, the vape is cold and weak because of the default TCR. On the other side when I use my own build SS coils and RTA tank with the default Joyetech SS316 profile with a TCR of 120, the temperature would actually be to high since then I actually need to use a custom TCR of 88 or 92. More standardization would be nice, especially for newcomers these kind of things can create some really confusing experiences.

I also build my own SS coils in a Merlin RTA and then all my problems go away and I can use normal TCR values. But in the case of Joyetech coils, it isn't "playing" around with TCR values, since that's really the default TCR they use for SS coils. Don't ask me why, I just know that Joyetech/Eleaf/Kangertech do it this way. And that's why I think they don't really use SS316, but some other custom SS alloy to be used specifically with there own mods and default profiles.

My experience with SS316 coils from Joyetech is that they use a standard TCR of 120, it's the default setting of Joyetech mods. When I use a custom TCR of 88 or 92 (the most common values normally used for SS316) I get a very weak and cold vape. I believe the same holds true for Kangertech SS coils, at least my experience is the same. Maybe your problem is the same also? Non-Chinese mods with a default SS316 profile almost always use a TCR of 88 or 92 and not 120. Higher TCR's will cause higher temperatures. There is something strange going on with some Chinese oem coils that has led me to believe they don't really use SS316, but some other SS alloy. Besides Joyetech and Kangertech, the same also holds true for Eleaf SS coils I have since then flashed alternative firmware on my Joyetech mod and found out in the second thread mentioned below that I needed a TCR of 120 when using Joyetech SS coils. https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/the-ultimate-tcr-list.721201/ https://nfeteam.org/forum/threads/tc-on-pico25-too-weak-compared-to-stock-firmware.816/