Jump to content

windxrunner

Members
  • Posts

    18
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Everything posted by windxrunner

  1. Right on! Thanks for making that request! It's just about the only thing about the board I dislike. I can see how it would be helpful if you sometimes vaped at 15w and wanted to quickly go to 150w for some reason, but that could be had just as easily with a slower scroll speed and by taking advantage of the profiles.
  2. Is there a way to change how fast the wattage scrolls when holding down the up/down buttons? I found it pretty annoying that it will go at a "normal" speed for a second or two, then the accelerator kicks in and it goes like 50w per second. I end up holding the button for a second, letting go, holding down the button for a second, letting go, then holding down the button for just slightly too long and I'm like 40 watts past where I wanted to be. It's driving me crazy.
  3. Yes it is, despite trying to lock the resistance
  4. This is a problem that I've been experiencing here and there over the past 4 days of playing around with the DNA200 but just this evening I've been practically pulling my hair out trying to get it working. Sometimes I'll be in Temp Control mode and instead of showing me the temperature when I'm firing, the temp field will turn into "---F" and just fire it like a kanthal coil. I've been able to fix it previously by tightening my screws or resetting my atty, though I did have to rebuild once a couple days ago to get the DNA200 to recognize my ni200 coil as such. Over the last couple hours I've put 4 different builds in my atty and tried them and all of them did the "---F" thing when firing. They were all built with either 26 or 28 awg ni200, the two different gauges are from two different brands btw, all are spaced coils. I tried tightening the connection, loosening the connection just a hair, resetting the atty by unscrewing, letting it cool, putting it back on, still "---F" when I fire it. I've tried changing the temperature and trying again, still no luck. I got frustrated and set it down, then I just came back to it and now it is working fine. I'm sorry I can't provide any more information but this is what is happening.
  5. dc601.. thanks! that is a wealth of information.
  6. Ohhhh... ok. There was something crucial I was missing! Thanks John! TBH, it seems like the highest temperature reached in the last puff would be more useful. It would let the user look down at the screen after the puff to see how close to the temperature cap they've gotten, without having to try to stare down the side of the mod at the screen mid-puff like I'm sure we've all done at some point lol.
  7. This DNA200 I just built is only my 3rd DNA mod I've made, but I haven't cracked a screen **YET** lol... cross my fingers... I've always been terrified of messing up the screens, I'm 3 times more gentle when setting the screen in place as I am with any other part of the build. To get the DNA200's screen in place in front of the hole in my 3D-printed enclosure, I had to fold my screen in sort of a W shape,,,like back, forward, back, then forward again... Man it was nerve racking... while I was folding the ribbon my entire body was incredibly tense. Those screens aren't anything to mess around with.
  8. Oh man, I feel for you. I wish you could have seen the immediate grimace that attacked my face as soon as I read the words "DNA 30" followed by "snapped the screen"... Man, that's a bummer. Luckily these new screens are replaceable! Idk about you but I get real excited when building a mod and if something that devastating happened to me in the middle of a build... I might just cry lol. Glad you eventually got that one sorted out.... It's an uphill battle sometimes but oh so worth it. The mods I've built are worth more to me than my most expensive pre-builts. [Edit: luckily these new screens are *easily* replaceable]
  9. So, I very well could be missing something crucial that affects the way this setting works but to me, it seems to be pretty inaccurate. I tried out the "Last Temperature" Field and it never shows the actual last temperature. My temp is set to 455F, I vape it and watch the screen,,,the last temp as far as my screen shows is 435F,,,Last Temperature displays as being 387F. Pretty much consistently shows a value that is far under the last value shown on my screen. This is obviously an issue for John to solve... Idk what's going on, but it's definitely not very helpful the way it is.
  10. Hey, VapingBad, thank you! I guess I just wasn't being patient enough and my idle time was set to 60 seconds. I changed it to 6 sec and after that amount of time my Charging Fields are displayed!
  11. I set it to 50%, uploaded it to my device and it's still only showing the Default Fields.... :\
  12. Will the 14% reduction in run time be the only noticeable difference? Also, where in Escribe can I find this setting? Thanks, John! You are a true wizard! I LOVE every board you've come out with (aside from the DNA12, I haven't tried it but I'm sure it was amazing)!
  13. Alright thanks, that answered my question. I'll leave it at 3.09v, then! Would it increase my usable charge cycles by much to increase it to 3.2v?
  14. Thanks, John! Here's my .ecig file. windxrunner.ecig
  15. Has anyone changed their Cell Soft Cut Off value? Mine came stock at 3.09v and I was wondering if it was safe to bring it down to 2.9 or 3v. Would that be a lot harder on the cell? Would the added battery life be that noticeable and would the reduced cycle life be worth it in your guys' opinions? I'm using the FullyMax 900mAh 3s LiPo pack btw. What is the Hard Cut Off set at? [Edited for typos]
  16. Thanks guys! It was a relatively easy build, tbh, the solder pads made soldering the thick wire a breeze. It's a very tight fit but I love the form factor. There is no real wasted space. Thanks for the info VapingBad.. If it continues to be a problem, I may mess with the ohm lock range and turn it up a little bit. But ATM, it hasn't been too much of an issue. The Charging Fields thing is what is really making me scratch my head. I wonder why it's working for you, but not for me? There's no option I can see to toggle the Charging Fields on or off that I can see... On the Default Field 2, I have it set as Battery Pack and Charging Field 2 set at Battery %, but when it's charging I still see the Battery Pack's total voltage. I tried changing them up and putting other options for the other fields but still no luck.
  17. Hello there! My name is windxrunner, I came over from ECF. My DNA200 is inside of a 3D-printed enclosure based off of the Beta Box design with a few alterations, uploaded by slutlab to Shapeways. I'm using a FullyMax 900mAh 3s LiPo pack, the same one used in the Beta Boxes Evolv sent to the Beta Testers. I've had my DNA200 for 3 days now, and I want to start by saying I LOVE IT and my experience has been overwhelmingly positive from the get-go and I have had very few problems. I have noticed a few wonky things, so I made this thread to record them and get feedback, and also to see if anyone else has had similar issues. The first thing I noticed is that when in TP mode, the temperature will go a couple of degrees above what I set. So, if I have it set to 450F, when it's throttling back on the power it will cap out between 450F andd 453F, unlike my DNA40's (I have 3 of them) which all throttle back to exactly the set temperature. I believe my positive connection to be very solid, so I don't believe that is what's going on. Is this just the board being more accurate than the DNA40? Second thing, is I can't get my Charging Fields to display. When I have my DNA200 plugged into the wall or my computer it only ever displays the Default Fields. I have selected alternate fields to be displayed when it is charging, but they do not show up. Is there some way to turn these on that I'm not seeing? Lastly, I have also had some difficulty with some builds refusing to go into TP mode. Once I solved it by unscrewing the posts and screwing them back down to get a different, and possibly better, connection. One time I fixed it by "resetting" the atty by unscrewing it from the 510, letting it cool and screwing it back down. Another time I couldn't fix the issue so I put a new build in my atomizer and tried that, and it worked. Overall, these issues haven't really interfered with the board's operation too much and I'm very thankful the firmware can be updated. This has removed any amount of worry from my mind, as I'm sure any and all issues will be addressed by Evolv. Thank you for reading my post, and have a wonderful day!
×
×
  • Create New...