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Arvidx

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Posts posted by Arvidx

  1. Still curious here since mod resistance is typically in the 3rd digit from what I'm seeing.  As in .003 range so that would not chop this much off.  Also how do you measure voltage without including the heating element in the circuit?  Wouldn't the device see the voltage potential across the entire circuit not 'pre 510'.  I'm still rather curious about how this works out.

  2. I had downloaded version 1.0.35.2 iirc and it was the only version giving me the watts increments, however during a test I redownloaded the direct setupes.exe  file and it is still version 1.0.32.  Luckily I found my old install which was SetupES_2015-10-21.exe  I did find the link in this thread once I found the file name:  https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66731-topic/

    This 'new' version has some features I do appreciate like the wattage increment change, as well as it's the only one I've had that actually tries to update the mods to the 9.30.15 firmware.  

    Am I missing a reason that after all this time it's not the default download?  Are there issues?

  3. It's strange...  I had a rather long discussion with one of the other dna200 owners here in town and we were discussing 'true 200 watts' as far as 2 battery mods.  I have been of the impression that 2 cell regulated mods were essentially incapable of keeping up a 200 watt output for any length of time.  He did a basic voltage test at the atomizer and confirmed that an IPV3li was outputting less than the claimed voltage on the RDA.  However as a followup, he also did the test, same RDA with the DNA200 and received nearly the same result.   Here's a copy of the post. 

    I did a comparison test with my dna 200 and the ipv3li. Atty was .124 ohms, and with the dna 200 floored it was allegedly at 4.98 volts internally for an alleged 40.21 Amps and 200.1 watts. I measured on my multimeter at the atty posts simultaneously, and saw 4.63 volts there.

    On my IPV3Li with a fresh set of HE4's (maybe 15 cycles on this set) the screen reads .12 (same build/atty ofc) and it calculates 4.89V . Upon firing it I see a steady 4.62V at the atty terminals. If we are to assume a similar power loss to the DNA200 atty connector/internals, and assume that the dna 200 has accurate internal measurements, then it would appear as though the IPV3li measures up pretty closely. You might even argue that the IPV3li is losing less power because it is anticipating needing to put out 4.89v vs 4.98 (from the more sensitive resistance measurement of the dna 200 chiming in at .124) yet only shows a difference of 1/100th of a volt at the end of the line. 

    I forgot about the battery sag test and redripped 2x before realizing, which I would estimate at over 12 hits, although probably < 2 seconds per drag as it's rather toasty. I'm still seeing the same 4.62 at the atty screws after vaping this much.

    I suppose it comes down to semantics regarding being ok with an internal reading of 200W being supplied versus a reading at the atty posts. If your standard is at the atty then no 200W mod will measure up, you will need in excess of 200w to get 200 at the atty posts. I still feel fine with this measurement standard as I think the real world conditions are too hard to anticipate/pad numbers for. I also believe the dna200 is the best regulated mod available at the moment, so it's a good mod to measure against. Back to the origin of this thread I mostly take issue with the theoretical 200w's not even being available (IE 25A limit on the fuchai).



    12541014_1101056833272300_5903818544966631181_n.jpg 

  4. Over the last few weeks my reference box has started drifting in resistance.  A setup I have had in for some time, 8 wrap 24g Ti 3mm ID dual coil which is always a .12 started resetting after cooling, several hundredths in variation higher.  From .15 sometimes as high as .19.  Of course at that point temperature control is way off.  

    It started (probably coincidentally) after my first 22g Ti build.  It was confusing at first, I put on the new 22g and found the vape MUCH hotter, up to 150 degrees high by taste, so at first I was convinced it was the thickness making that much difference, but alas after several 22g coils and a constant struggle to find the right temps, I realized the resistance was often resetting after the mod was left for some time, and causing a severe drift in resistance from one instance to another.  I had never had this with my prior coils, but it was confirmed when I put the old setup back on and had the same experience.  They were both Mini Royal Hunters so I started to think it might have been the atomizer, so I tried a third atty, sadly with the same result.  I finally put a 16g copper wire through yet another atomizer and checked with the atomizer analyzer, and with the wire in, I can watch the resistance drift between .022 and .045 variously over the span of a couple minutes.  

    I broke into the case but have not removed the 510 yet.  I see there is a C clip to remove and the pin should come out.  I did test the 510 and found it was very very tight and didn't want to budge on first try.  So I figured I'd throw something up on here.  I cannot find anything in search about this drift and at least wanted to check in before I tear out the 510 and clean up the threading between it and the mod.  The solder on the positive pin looks solid so I'm guessing I'm getting a weak ground?

    Any suggestions on what to check out along the way?

    I also just got a Reuleaux and upon throwing the same 24g setup on it, I had the same result I expected...  .120 ohm and solid expected temp levels so far.

    Thanks

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