soblue

You should contact your vendor or Evolv and see what they suggest. I personally wouldn't connect it to my PC any further with the high current it's pulling is likely it could ruin your PC USB. The board is only supposed pull 500mA if data lines are detected.

Yea was just going to say take it off USB and don't connect it again unless your ok with blowing your PC's USB. 3 amps and 14.37 watts is to much for power draw through your ports.

It's not impossible for some of the failures to be created by the makers it's also not impossible there were / are problems with the board itself. There have been many reports of devices failing after a period of time has passed which would in general indicate the device was built appropriately. Some of these makers that have experienced the Dead Bug, Vaporshark, Opus, VapeCige have reported that there's known problems with some of the boards that cause them to just die and that Evolv is aware this. While some of these makers clearly point the finger at the Evolv board I've not read any statements from Evolv as to why in some cases consumers having multiple dead units. One mod maker on this forum reported 6 out of 58 boards failed, sure some of those could have been due to the maker but that's a bit over 10% failure rate which is very high for a production release. So to attribute most the failures to "makers error" IMO is a bit like turning a blind eye, if you read the forums. Several of these makers have been making devices for years and are well capable of building electronic devices.

Well if yours is missing a component that may answer why your's pulls more current than it's supposed to. Still no idea why mine has and I don't suspect it to be missing components since it's only done it a couple times randomly.

I've previously posted a screen capture of mine charging at about 1 amp with a full charge through the PC USB but never received a response. My understanding from a post I read from John was the device would not exceed 500 milliamps if data lines are connected. Hopefully Evolv will answer what scenario's the device will pull over 1 amp when connected to PC USB as I've been unable to reproduce it, but it has happened twice for some unknown reason.

Yea just make a loop or a couple loops depending on your atty and just place it on top the device for the loop to air cool.

Wouldn't bother making coils, they retain to much heat on the atty. Just make a loop or a parallel loop and there's little to no heat retained on the atty / 510. Think the one I used was a couple 6" long strands of 26g kanthal coming in a little over 1? and worked fine.

Something else to consider, looking at the specs of the Istick 50 that I seen showed 4400mah 2x18650 parallel, The Hcigar VT200 listed 1300mah 3s series so the watt hours calculate out at about 16.28Wh for the Istick 50 and about 14.43Wh for the VT200. So if the specs I seen are correct and my calculations are up to par there is more capacity with the Istick 50 so it makes sense to get some additional usage from the Istick at lower power settings, not necessarily what your seeing though.

Hopefully I'm understanding statistics correctly, if not someone can correct me. But it's kind of hard to compare battery capacity to someone saying I get a day out of mine when they may take 4 second draws every 15 minutes or so and you may take 10 sec draws every 5 minutes. If it were mine I would put a full charge on it, and either Reset Statistics in Device Monitor or write down the Total Energy mWh then use the device without charging it any further until I received the Weak Battery notification (making sure Cell Soft Cutoff is set correctly). If at that point your Total Energy is around 14Wh then it's performing pretty close to specs. If it's a little lower it may just be over stated battery specs. If it's significantly lower it may indicate a bad battery pack or something within the device.

I think the screen charge% is based off of what you've configured in the Watt Hours in Escribe and uploaded to the device. Also I looked at my Battery Analyzer log to see roughly where it was at when my cells were at 3.87V and it was slightly above 50% through the test. just for comparison, I have the same device & battery as you so I suggest letting it charge & balance fully and putting a build on that's within the Data Sheets specs for the power setting your trying to achieve.

If I read the data sheet correctly you cant get the full 200 watts with a .501? coil. It appears you can only get the full 200 watts from roughly about .075? - .41?. And as mentioned your cell 3 isn't balanced very well you may be running into a sag problem until the battery is fully charged and balanced. Also your showing 10.62 watt hours on your charge but cant see what you have it set to in your Mod tab. I would make sure the battery charged and balanced fully (should be 4.2V on each cell) using a coil under .41? and see if you can achieve the 200W. And to your other question, from what I've read if the device detects data lines it's supposed to limit the charge current to .5A so going through a PC USB I believe that's correct. Charging through an external charger I can get 1A charge but on my PC it's usually under .5A. Only a couple times it's been at .9A but I believe that to be a bug in the charging logic and I'm unable to reproduce it. Also if you have windows 7 look for Snipping Tool, makes screen grabs much easier than taking pictures.

3.8V is not fully charged it should be 4.2V. Guessing your seeing 100% charged on the device due to the 9 watt Hr or whatever Escribe has as default where you have roughly 14.5Wh. According to the 1800mah it would calculate out to 19.98Wh you could give that a try. A screen capture of your mod tab settings and Device Monitor might help but it doesn't sound to me like you have a charged battery at all.

I cant speak for droopydoors but what I'm saying is we don't live in a perfect world, atty connections aren't always going to be the same, they may be dirty, loose or a variety of other reasons to get a different resistance reading. Regardless of our imperfect world I don't want the device to automatically go into Power Mode when my Profile is set for Temp Mode or fire at a new "Refined" resistance without as much as a notification. This functionality creates burnt coils and severe dry hits when our world isn't perfect and contributes to a inconsistent vaping experience. When I specifically upload a TCR to the Profile and choose the settings that's what I want it to use. If the device automatically ignores those settings and just reverts to Power Mode the profile is effectively useless at that point and is not a pleasurable vaping experience. Ohm Lock works around the Refinement issue but there's nothing to force the Selected Profile to stay the Selected Profile that I'm aware of. I'm not sure what the feature is called that auto switches to Power Mode but wish it wasn't there. IMO once the Profile is selected that's what it should use plain and simple. If there's problems with my build and that Profile I'll fix them but I see no benefit in automatically switching to Power mode (I can choose my Kanthal Profile when I want). At the very least a notification message to alert the user "Hey Gonna Burn Up Your Coil" before delivering that very unpleasant dry hit.

I totally agree. For me the purpose of Temp Limiting devices is to prevent Dry Hits. But when the device automatically decides to drop out of my Temp Limiting profile into Power mode and burn my dual Ti coils because it didn't like the resistance change is more than frustrating. Effectively makes the profile useless if it does't perform at the user selected settings. I've had similar experience with "Refinement" automatically adjusting the resistance then blowing out the back of my throat with a dry hit with not so much as a Warning. Thankfully there is "Ohm Lock" to work around that, now they need to implement "Profile Lock" so the device performs at the user loaded Profile Settings.

It's highly doubtful the battery pack in the VTbox200 is actually 1800mah. I'd suggest you run the Battery Analyzer to see what your really getting out of it. I think mine came in at about 14.5Wh, more comparable to a 1300mah battery.