kismetcapitan

found it, thank you!

as most of my profiles are TC, is there any way to have the temperature be the default value that can be changed up or down with the buttons (versus wattage)? I tend to set a preferred wattage for a coil, then I like to adjust the temperature on the fly. This gives me more direct control over the overall vape, while controlling wattage is in a sense a secondary ramp control. It occurred to me that what frustrates me about using the DNA 200 (of 11 mods I have, 8 are DNA 200s) is that I'm constantly clicking 5 times to lock, then hold up and down to access temperature, adjust temp, then clicking 5 times to unlock.

that's a very cool approach, except why use kanthal wires to the coil being tested? wouldn't copper or other non-resistive wire be better? unless using wire that has basically zero variation in resistance versus temperature is critical; then you need kanthal. mad scientist time in the kitchen!

the wire I mainly use in vaping is 24 gauge platinum/ruthenium (95%/5%). That 5% ruthenium is making a difference such that I cannot use the TCR for pure platinum...which is essentially useless because you can't really buy 100% platinum; it's always alloyed 5-10% with ruthenium or iridium (and a few others). common sense says that each alloy is going to have a different TCR. There's throwing guesstimate TCRs and going the trial and error method, but unless I stumble across the exact TCR, it won't perform correctly at all temperatures and wattages. Is there a more accurate way of determining what the EXACT TCR for this wire is?

I was pretty excited to snag one of the first Theorems and play with the new NotchCoil, only to find that the base ohm reading is totally freaking out on all my DNA 200 mods (I've got two Panzers and several Reuleaux). Locked ohms, but it still acts like it needs to compensate, like running the temperature 100 degrees higher than my target (about 450 fahrenheit). Anyways, I just couldn't get it to run right, and on a whim I threw it on one of my tester/"junk" mods, a VTC Mini. How depressing it is that the stock SS316 setting on this little mod nails the TC of the NotchCoil and is vaping correctly at the target 450 degrees. Being a dedicated DNA 200 user however, I obviously want the same or better performance. How do I get more precision in my SS316 profile, especially as you can't enter the .00092 TCR for SS316 as it only lets you go down to .001? As temps rise, that .00008 difference becomes exponentially greater.

take a very good look at the balance wires, insure they are in the correct position, and that all soldering points are solid. also check the jumpers on the board. that's where I found my problem and fixed this very issue. oh, and your buttons are sticking most likely because the faceplate screws are torqued too tightly; they're the bottom four screws also holding in the battery sled.

24 gauge Pt950/Ru (95% platinum/5% ruthenium). Titanium has a flavor too, but it's hard to detect until you vape on a wire that has absolutely no flavor at all, because it's chemically inert when used as a heating coil. It does not oxide with anything in the atmosphere at any reasonable temperatre You can dry fire it to blindingly hot - not just glowing, or red hot, but where it's getting to be as bright as a lightbulb filament - and all that happens is that every bit of gunk on the wire vaporizes and the coil is shiny and new. It will literally last forever. Because no oxide layer forms on the outside, the coils must be spaced. On my Griffin I built dual chimney coils. Nice clouds, and because the only air route is through the inside of the coil, the flavor is intense.

well, my hunch was correct, which I realized after I started soldering together the 3 18650 batteries and where to put the balance leads. I had the two balance leads reversed this whole time. I am an IDIOT. However, it did push me to solder together an 18650 battery pack. I'll never need to wonder if batteries are married anymore!

I've started running into this problem; I have 4 RX200s that I am swapping DNA 200 boards into. The first one went fine and is working quite well. I use it alongside a Reuleaux DNA 200 and with identical eScribe profiles, they perform identically. Swaps #2 and #3....I press the fire button and the mod will only stay alive if I hold the fire button down. It stays on with USB and talks to eScribe just fine. What I didn't do, that I did the first time around, was follow the schematic to the letter. So where I'm going to explore, after unwinding, is inside the battery sled top and bottom. I see where Wismec put in the two tap leads that are used; The Reuleaux DNA 200 is wired IDENTICALLY to the RX200. The only difference is that the positive and negative tap leads are jumpered on the DNA 200 board. Regardless of RX200 or DNA 200, both have extremely thin wires; the only thick-ish ones are the two wires to the 510 connector, and the positive battery wire off the battery sled. So I'm taking a guess that it's the tap leads that are creating a problem. In all three RX200s, I tossed that ground strap and ran the negative battery lead down to the board itself. Using thicker gauge wire is problematic; there's simply no room. Either the battery sled won't go in all the way, or the wires start pushing against anything and everything, the board starts coming forward, and the buttons start to stick. btw I'm using new LG HG2 batteries that I've charged externally, and READ 100% FINE on my two working DNA200 mods. I'm seriously contemplating gutting the entire battery sled, leaving only the magnets, and then soldering together a 3 cell 18650 pack, wired with XT60 connectors and a 4-prong tap wire plug, so I can plug it in as if it were a lipo battery.