vapesmooth234

Thanks for the replies from another forum asked same thing: "The wh setting only makes the battery bar more accurate, it won't affect battery life in any way"

"But DNA250 max USB charges at 2A, correct? But then how come my new Hcigar vt250s DNA250 is only showing max .95A when using a 2.1A wall adapter? The USB cord I'm using can't supply 2A or something?" Once the DNA250 mod got down to about %30 battery life, it DID charge at somewhere around 1.35A with the 2.1A wall adapter. My DNA200 (when charging worked) did something similar, it would reduce USB current A as it started to get towards %100 battery life, I guess it's safer this way. Maybe though I was only getting 1.35A and not 2A to the DNA250 because it was a USB 2.0 instead of 3.0 but I doubt that. As long it's over 1A I'm confident in it not being something I needed to set in escribe or something. Still wondering about all the rest ?s though is anyone knows. thanks

just got a DNA75 Hcigar VT75 nano. Tried to set up in escribe to show the USB charge current on screen. But unlike my old DNA200, I see no option on the dropdown menu to show "USB CURRENT", only "Current" which apparently isn't USB current, whatever "current" is, it stays at 0.00A while charging. I just like to see what Amps the usb is charging at. Max is 1.0A on a DNA75, correct? But DNA250 max USB charges at 2A, correct? But then how come my new Hcigar vt250s DNA250 is only showing max .95A when using a 2.1A wall adapter? The USB cord I'm using can't supply 2A or something? One last thing for now, Under MOD tab I have my old DNA200 triple 18650 mod set to the following which I think someone told me in the past to do: Battery capacity: 33 Wh 3 cell Soft Cell cutoff: 2.8V Charging Mode: max recharges (instead of max puffs). Should I set my new DNA250 and DNA75 mods also to Capacity 33 Wh, and set soft cell cutoff to 2.8V? I know what max charges and max puffs means, but not sure about 33Wh is. At default the DNA250 is 9wh. the DNA75 doesn't even show anything there for Wh. And soft cell cutoff at default is 3.09 V on the DNA250. I'm using dual sony vt6 3000 mAh in the DNA250 by the way, and a single 18650 3000 mAh LG H2 in the DNA75. And I plan to only ever charge these via the MOD's USB. It's just safer to make soft cell cutoff lower than the default 3.09V, but it's kind of like max recharges vs max puffs in that you don't stress the batteries as much and therefore get more months out of them vs more puffs between charges? Don't these cells charge to 4.2V on an external anyway? Why is default 3.09V so much lower than that though?

I tried 3 brand new batteries but they won't charge either. I charged them externally first, vaped them to about %80 and they dont' charge. Screen shows 0.00A charging current should be something like 0.99A. escribe shows the usb current is flickering between 0.001 and 0.003 (screen shows 0.00 though). It should be steady somewhere around .90 In escribe Device Monitor with the live graph, it has Diagnostics button. And then Set USB Current Limit. I changed that to .5 and that did nothing, then I clicked Reset USB Current Limit. Then did Set again to .9A. I think it should be 1.0 but a bit afraid to put 1. in case it over currents it or something. Still not charging though. I have 3 18650 lG H2 3000 mAh cells in this that are over 17 months old but they still vape for hours if I charge them externally. Under MOD tab I have is set to this which I think someone told me in the past to do: Battery capacity: 33 Wh 3 cell Soft Cell cutoff: 2.8V Charging Mode: max recharges (instead of max puffs). I think recent flooding of a tank caused this. Is there something I can do like take the chip out and soak it in rice or something or try zero-residue electronics cleaner spray Is there a way to factory reset it in escribe maybe that will fix it? UPDATE EDIT: I did in escribe "Restore Defaults" and that fixed nothing. I set to show on Screen USB voltage which IS correctly showing 4.77 (ish) volts from a 5V output computer USB port. But the USB current is still 0.00A. I can also Show USB Power on screen but it's 0.01W, on my other new DNA250 mod USB Power changes around but is somewhere around 2.00 or something, not 0.01W.

I've had the same three LG H2 3000mAh 18650s in a DNA200 Wismic Reuleaux since I got it in July 2016, so about 17 months! FYI, I rotated them only once but that was after about a year of purposely not rotating them because I wanted to test their voltages to make sure the DNA board was indeed perfectly balance charging them for safety = I tested with a ~$500 analog meter and a cheap digital meter and they were all the same voltages. (what helps make it sort of unnecessary to rotate them though is that I don't vape at high wattage, I do like .12 coils at 55-65 watts. I heard if you vape high wattage, the "first" battery may take the brunt of the force and need rotating, otherwise you may end up with unbalanced, unsafe difference in voltages). anyway, just wanted to note that when it works, the DNA is really good at balance charging, possibly better than the "safest" external chargers like Xtar and nitecore, both of which I've had problems with! I definitely noticed the past month or so it doesn't hold a charge for long at all. I charged it overnight last night and noticed today it says only %14 battery life instead of %100 and the Amps being supplied by the USB wall adapter is showing 0.00Amps which is something I set in escribe to show on the main screen while charging. The DNA200 board can charge a 1.00A with a 1A+ wall adapter, so usually it'll say around 0.90A when the battery % is as low as %14, and then it tapers down to a lower Amps being supplied as the battery fills up. I tried multiple adapters and usb cords and wall outlets and car chargers, all which work with cell phone but show 0.00A being fed to charge the MOD. I took all the batteries out to clean and it was already clean. I connect to escibe and it finds the mod as DNA200, so the USB isn't totally fried, but maybe just the charging circuit. I successfully did charge these three cells in an external and then put in MOD and it says %100 and have been vaping it for hours no problem except it still shows like %85 but 0.00A. I have escribe set to charge them to only 4.1 instead of 4.2 which the external does. I have two brand new fully charged (used an external) VTC6s for a dual 18650 DNA250 MOD that's arriving any day now and also a new fully charged LG H2 for a single 18650 DNA75 arriving any day now. Would it be a terrible idea to put these miss match cells in the MOD to check for charging? I can wait though because I just ordered three new Samsung 30Q 18650s just to test this MOD. When I get those Samsung 30Q, should I fully charge them first in an external or just put them in the MOD and USB charge check? So if all fails, then I guess the charging part of the chip fried. Is it safe to still use it if I use an external charger? What do you think caused this? Just bad luck, or was it caused by the batteries being used for 17 months? I figured I can just keep using them as long as they charged somewhat even if the charge doesn't hold for long. Thanks in advance.

thread solved. just wanted to add this about USB charging a DNA: I posted how my DNA200 rolo triple 18650, how I purposely never rotated the cells and only ever USB charged it for about a year and then tested on a $500 analog multi meter (and cheap digital one) that all 3 cells read the exact same voltages after that but I vape low wattage (like 50W for .45 builds or .15 premade TFV8 octa coils). So also the '1st' cell in the mod might not be getting the brunt effect either since using a low wattage, but I still have to trust the DNA to usb charge if I end up using a bit more wattage or at least rotate the cells every couple days if I end up using high wattage but I don't think I'm about high watt vaping anyway. take care. thank you. edit ^ noticed vapign bad debunks the "1st cell brunt theory" but I have read it several times from others being something to consider. I really don't know but I'll trust the DNA's USB and maybe simple rotate cells if I end up using higher wattage.

pretty much solved this over here: https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/ive-read-the-reason-you-shouldnt-charge-via-usb-is-because-multiple-not-single-batteries-can-be.844971/ http://vapingunderground.com/threads/single-18650-mod-safe-to-usb-charge-what-battery-for-these-mods.381595/ basically got mixed opinions on USB charging but I still think DNA is safe to. Both said USB should be safe if it's just 1 battery even if not a DNA, but that some single-cell MOD manuals still suggest using an external which complicates that but I might just get a DNA also for the single cell mod. Also wanted to note, I posted how my DNA200 rolo triple 18650, how I purposely never rotated the cells and only ever USB charged it for about a year and then tested on a $500 analog multi meter (and cheap digital one) that all 3 cells read the exact same voltages after that but I vape low wattage (like 50W for .45 builds or .15 premade TFV8 octa coils). So also the '1st' cell in the mod might not be getting the brunt effect either since using a low wattage, but I still have to trust the DNA to usb charge if I end up using a bit more wattage or at least rotate the cells every couple days if I end up using high wattage but I don't think I'm about high watt vaping anyway. take care. thank you.

I've read the reason you shouldn't charge via USB is because multiple (not single) batteries can be a problem for cheap chips (or anything besides the DNA basically). When we only had Ego Twists and stuff with a single internal battery, everyone USB charged and passthrough vaped with no worry. Or people just used an external because it was quicker. Anyway for some reason I hate removing batteries and charging in an external, so I spend the extra $100 or whatever for DNA mods only after asking around about this. I've been using a Wismec Reuleaux DNA 200 for over a year. Same 3 LG browns. Purposely never rotated them once for the test I knew I would eventually run. I tested the batteries about a year later with a $500 analog multi meter and a cheaper digital meter and they were all the exact same voltages at full charge. So yes I do trust the DNA chip to USB charge. Side note - the sketchy mods (basically everything besides DNA if I'm not mistaken) which you shouldn't USB charge multiple cells with, if I'm not mistaken, they're also just as unsafe to vape on (dis-CHARGE batteries) because it's not balanced charging and therefore not balanced discharging which could lead to a difference too large in voltage between each of the multiple batteries and cause explosion etc. - but people think "just use an external charger and you'll be safe" even though vaping the thing is just as unsafe as USB charging it. so anyway just noting that but my question is: My Wismec Rolo triple 18650 is just too big... So I'm searching for a dual 18650 DNA 133W+ MOD (definitely getting DNA for the dual 18650), plus a single 18650/26650 MOD. So does the single cell MOD have to be DNA if I'm going to safely USB charge it (and passthrough vape it)? I have no problem spending a little more for a DNA single 18650/26650 but I don't want to limit my choices to only DNA because I want that single cell MOD to be as compact as possible or maybe some other small feature that would make me maybe prefer a non-DNA MOD over a DNA one. Last side note, I have read "in short' the reason you shouldn't USB charge is because e cigs get hot and heat can damage the chip that regulates safe charging (unlike a cell phone or something which is safe to USB charge however those are single-celled batteries anyway). And that some mods don't do this as good as others but that kind of sounds wrong. I mean I think the main thing is the exact balancing that the DNA does but others don't. Maybe some newer chips are just as safe as the DNA but I really trust the DNA and I'm sort of already familiar with escribe to change to max battery life vs max puffs or vice versa etc. ----------------------------- And then I'm just gonna chime back in after this with VERY short question of which batteries I should get for how I vape with the 2 or 3 new MODS I'll be getting after learning your inputs on if I can safely USB charge a single 18650/26650 Non-DNA MOD. Thanks in advance.

I'll just link this from other forum. I figured I'd get info from DNA heads while I'm at it. THANK YOU https://www.e-cigarette-forum.com/threads/mod-with-replaceable-internal-battery.844881/ Anyway one last thing I was wondering, I saw this MOD says this " Lost Vape Therion DNA75C ($120) Without doubt, the Lost Vape Therion is the most luxurious DNA75C mod out there. The battery panels are genuine leather, and come in many different shades and styles. You can purchase the battery panels separately to refresh the look of the Therion when you need a change. The front panels are made out of wood. The body is zinc alloy. Powered by dual 18650 batteries in paralel, this is the best DNA75C mod you can get. Although you can charge with USB, I recommend getting a Nitecore charger for safer balanced charging" http://www.geekayvapes.com/dna-mods/ --------------------------------- I'm %100 not getting that MOD because I don't buy anything leather, but since it's parallel, does that mean %99.9 of other DNA dual 18650 mods are Series (or something else)? All I'll wondering is, is there a certain battery configuration (series or parallel or something) I need to make sure of before I go charging whatever new DNA-chip MOD I get VIA the usb? I charge a triple 18650 relaux DNA200 via usb for a year, same batteries, never rotated once and they were all the same voltages and it's indeed a safe charger. (I get xtar or nitecore 'safe' chargers for like $10 so it's not too good to be true that the DNA chip safely charges multiple cells also). What's hard to believe is the cheap RX etc chips can cause a dangerous discrepancy between the voltages not only if charged with USB but also discharged (when it's vaping and using battery life, it's almost just as unsafe). I tested with $500 multimeter and digital meter that triple 18650 LG browns all have exact same voltage after a year or so of vaping them, never rotating, only ever USB charged them.

I downloaded escribe again after having not used it for about a year when I set up this MOD. Took a minute to figure out I needed to set escribe to Advanced Mode to see the MOD tab and the battery info. I think you solved it why the Xtar said they were only %75. My settings said I did have CHARGING MODE set to MAXIUM RECHARGES instead of the only other option is MAXIMUM PUFFS. But Xtar said %75 and the only difference is 4.1 (MAX RECHARGES) vs 4.2 (MAX PUFFS). But I would think the Xtar would say something like %97 charged (the % difference between 4.1 and 4.2 is only %2.41). I also might have set it to be that it says SOFT CELL CUT OFF: 2.8V if that matters. I just googled that sony browns are supposed to read 4.2V fully charged, so why did the simpson analog (~$350) say they're all 4.4 after the Xtar charged them? The Xtar is faulty? thanks.

Well if you look at the picture of the simpson Meter, what I said was AC is the 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, line in black text, now I think is actually DC, not AC. http://www.simpson260.com/260-6/simpson_260-6p-1-001.jpg I guess the DNA port IS safe especially with these quality LG browns. Because the main factor would be differences (aka discrepancies) between the batteries voltages when using multiple cells in a MOD. If they were reading something like 4.1, 3.8, 4.3, then it could be unsafe. But they are all the same except for that one was bouncing between 4.09 and 4.08 instead of staying put at 4.09 (this was on a Free/cheap Harbor Fright digital Multimeter by the way). I think the question that was really bugging me is why did the Xtar (yes it is a good charger based on my research and asking, so is the nitecore, but I did have one port on the nitecore stopped charging to full [I many times charged a head lamp's 18650s in the nitecore, and since it half stopped working, I bought an Xstar VC2 plus for the headlamp to charge $20 quality pair of batteries, these http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-Keeppower-Protected-18650-3400mAh-with-Panasonic-NCR18650B-Li-ion-Battery-PCB-/122298469527?hash=item1c798e8c97:g:TO0AAOSwA3dYbSTw 2x Keeppower Protected 18650 3400mAh with Panasonic NCR18650B Li-ion Battery PCB Anyway, maybe I DID change the escribe setting to only charge them to 4.1. Good observation. I did reread the this thread and seems I might have opted to purposely not do that, but I will download escribe now and check and report back. If I didn't set ti like that, then I'm confused, but still feel safe because there were no discrepancies. thanks for the replies. I think I linked this thread to two other vaping forums because people were highly doubting the DNA's onboard usb, and this should show it's safe. The cheaper chips/boards though I would NOT charge with the USB, they are known to cause discrepancies, dangerous.

Bumping this 1-year old thread with follow-up. To not read the whole thread, all you need to know is I was wondering if charging the DNA200 MOD via usb was safe enough to omit the slight hassle of using an external dedicated charger. Well, I thought I'd post to this thread again, because since I posted it I used this MOD daily with the same three LG browns HG2 3000 mAh 20A batteries. I never once took the batteries out. I never rotated them or anything. I never charged them in any way besides using the onboard USB (except when I first got the batteries, I charged them in a nitecore i2). I ran them (the MOD) to zero battery only about 4 times since having them for about a year. I usually ran them to about %35 and then I left the MOD charging overnight pretty much every night since I first posted this. I used it as a passthrough while charging often. A couple days ago, I finally took the batteries out to check their voltage. I let the USB charge them until it said %100. About 3 hours after taking the charged batteries out of the MOD, I tested them on a cheap digital multimeter. I set it to DVC 20. Two of the three cells read 4.09. The other cell bounced between 4.08 and 4.09 and eventually stayed put at 4.08. The 4.08 was the inner left battery by the way (when opening the back of the case and looking in) - I think that might be the first battery that gets the charge or something like that. When I set the multimeter to DCV 200, they all read 4.1 On a ~$375 Simpson analog multimeter, I set one of its dials to +D.C The other main center dial I set to 10V All 3 cells read 4.4 on the AC line which maxes out at 10 I don't really know which is the correct dial setting to read these batteries, but most other settings would make the needle jump all the way to max, or it would barely move the needle. If I set the dial to AC instead of +D.C, and kept the main center dial at 10V, they all read 4.6 on the AC line. After this, I put them in an Xtar VC2 plus charger. The charger said they were %75 charged (this charger can't read voltage though I don't think). I left them charge for about 45 mins at full 1A charging rate. I didn't test them with the multimeter after charging them in the Xtar. what does this all mean? The DNA charging port is safe? Why were they only %75 charged according to the Xtar? Thanks.

cool thanks for the tip that I can show battery volts as an optional screen. I think the DNA screen just doesn't have enough pixels compared to the larger RX200/ RX200S / RX2/3 to show volts for all three when holding all 3 buttons in lock mode like they do. "I think you someone have changed the setting to 52.2 W like you say." should I change that? I don't even know what it means. Should I change my battery mAhs to 3000? I vape a tfv8 .15 coil at only like 45 watts (it suggest like 120Watts) and a .45 dual coil at like 25 watts, which is low and possibly killing my battery (or maybe I have that concept backwards and I am saving battery doing low watts)? all I know is I had the mod fully charged and took maybe 40 puffs and the battery icon showed about %60. I have been mostly pssthrough vaping it since though and it's always at 90-100% I don't' know what to put if I even should change it for Nominal and the stuff I wrote in my last message about Battery capacity 21.44 Wh 3-cell Cell soft Cutoff 2.8V 24A for max continuous input current 24A max pule input current I won't have my log in credentials but will check the thread while on vacation I hope maybe someone can answer though anything unanswered. You can message me your paypal and I'll send you $20 even thanks.

I just started using my Reuleaux DNA200 tonight. it took like 20 hours to charge three new LH HG2 3000mAh 20A 18650s in a 2-bay Nitecore i2 alternating them here and there. When charged, a $400 analog multimeter read 4.2 for all, and a $4 harbor freight digi meter read 4.22. How do I use the MOD's built-in volt meter to read the volts of each battery so I can compare the readings to the external multimeters just for peace of mind that the chip is charging and discharging evenly? I see no mention of this in the instructions. I saw an RX200 video, the guy locks it and holds all three buttons but that just makes my DNA ask which material (SS Ti Ni). Does the DNA version even have this volt meter? I downloaded escribe and it's not as complex as I thought, actually pretty cool, but I have some questions. Sorry for so many questions vs slowly learning and digesting this. I'm going on a trip and don't want to fry this mod because of wrong settings. First I downloaded escribe here https://www.evolvapor.com/products/dna200 (there's nothing in escribe that like links my computer to the internet or anything, right?) Then it said there was an auto update so I did that and I didn't download anything here http://www.wismec.com/product/reuleaux-dna200/ you see in the blue text on the right I see people mention that link possibly still needing it even if escribe Auto updated it. I added SS 316 and Titanium in "Materials", and now the mod shows that option when I hold all three buttons when locked (I was wondering this all along but it was simple after the update, possibly only previously it was trickier to do SS TC). I'm not ready for TC but just was wondering this. I changed the screen brightness to %20 when charging so I can keep an eye on it I guess to see the voltage current of the charge if I'm understanding this. Or will the screen on during chargin actually make it take significantly longer to USB charge? I slightly lowered the other brightnesses down from %100. Edit: after posting this, I noticed USB'd to my PC, it showed .97 Amp charging rate, same as when plugged into a wall adapter (which I think is capable of up to 2A but I guess the DNA is capped at 1Amp). But then I tried some 99 cent POS cable because it's much longer and I use it with my other MOD as a passthough. There was no reading, it never went into charging mode (lighting bolt icon through the battery bar on the DNA screen). So then I tried yet another USB cable and it now no mater which cable I use, including the one that was included with the MOD, it shows a fluctuating charging amperage of anywhere from around .60-.75. It's at about %60 battery life. Maybe this is normal and it will work its way up to 1.0A charging current? I vape it while it's plugged in USB charging. Even when connected to escribe but I think it's meant to do that (Device Monitor tab) unless vaping while USB'd is a big no no? I changed in escribe Behavior of batteries in Mod tab, Charging Mode changed from Maximum puffs to Max Recharges. All I care about is the batteries will last long between charges (I'm okay if I have to buy a new set a month or so earlier vs the other option, but maybe I should switch it back because someone mentioned it's safer to be on Max Recharges because it only charges them to 4.1Volts but maybe I can manually set that and still have it last as long as possible between charges? What I need help with is setting up using LG HG2 3000 mAh 20A batteries. I have a TFV8 octa coil at .15 ohms kanthal and it says on the coil something like "best vaped at 120 Watts" but I'm fine at like 60 Watts, I don't see myself going over 100 watts. I have a .45 ohm dual Clapton kanthal in a drip tank that I vape at only like 25 watts. I'm new to this tanks and coils though. I'm just saying I don't think I'll be vaping super high wattage if that matters for how I set the batteries. What I'm wondering is it says Battery capacity 21.44 Wh 3-cell Cell soft Cutoff 2.8V 24A for max continuous input current 24A max pule input current Electrical Mod Resistance .003 ohms Ohm lock range -/+ %25 I watched a tutorial and he show to do what I'm trying to do, click Watt-Hour Calculator But I don't want to mess up anything. It's saying I'm only using 720 mAh as default. It has 3.7 as Nominal Cell Voltage. Why isn't is 4.2V like what they charged to? I remember 3.7V being like a magic # with ego twist mods and stuff though. I'm just really confused. It says Nominal Pack Voltage 11.1 "Load SCV" would be if I download someone's file for the 3000 mAh LG HG2 20As? And it would auto set it all optimally for those? I don't want anyone's files though, I'm like paranoid about computer safety, this escribe One other thing I noticed in Profile 1, it says Power 52.2 Watts but all other 7 profiles say 8.5. Maybe I locked in something messing around with holding down buttons on the MOD? I can indeed up the watts to 150 and vape and it's too harsh but just making sure.

thanks yeah, there's also presets I read for brand and brand and types in escribe. I have those popular LG HG2 browns and there's probably a setting to just set it to that for most efficient use. I'll see if the newest update gives you SS TC without having to use escribe, I was asking above. That can wait though, I'm doing dual fused claptons for now. I should get my batteries in tomorrow to finally use the MOD. For the safety of USB charging I keep asking about, Unless I'm missing something, all this boils down to is if the volts are all Always very similar between the 3 batteries. No more than .3 difference (but I don't think I've read anyone with a DNA getting differences anywhere near that amount -it's very close volt differences with DNA). RX200 Mod is a different story. In other words, fully charge them USB and use the mod's volt checked PLUS for good measure, I have $400 analog multimeters and cheaper digital ones I can compare to what the DNA chip says (which I read is as accurate as a dedicated multimeter). In other words, if I check them in all different conditions (after full charge, after all batteries are dead and need charging, about an hour of use vaping after full charge, after 3 hours of use etc) then the USB is perfectly safe as long as the volts are always no more than .3 difference. However though, there could be a thing that the DNA chip doesn't cut-off charging them when it should, but I wouldn't' worry about this so much vs using even a dedicated charger. You can change that setting in escribe also to be safer you can cut them off at a lower amount which possibly extends life of them is the whole point in doing that, but what I'm saying is a potential problem would be if the cut-off just doesn't work at all and the batteries over charge, which is something that can happen with all chargers though. I don't even feel safe with my nitecore D2 which is out of warranty after just one year of not very much use (only used for my dual 18650 headlamp I charge a top of the line pair of $25 batteries in the nitecore. One slot the blinking lights never shows done but the other one does so I have to switch them. It's the slot, not the battery. Same thing here with a nitecore I just found this in two seconds there's probably tons of similiar instances with all "safe' chargers. so it is what it is. https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/3s7ba0/overcharged_18650/

well, I just bought Wismec Reuleaux DNA200. I read enough to steer me away from anything RX. I just bought a TFV8 tank that has prebuilt .15 coils that I want to use at full potential. Please link me which batteries I can safely use with .15 or write out the full name of them so I don't get confused with all the choices. I would also like a recommendation for a second set of batteries that I can get longer life out of but not using such low .15 ohm coils. I don't know exactly how much higher ohms these coils would be since I've never sub ohm vaped but I just bought some RDAs and RTAs and want to do things like dual Clapton builds or stainless steel etc etc. I just know I want dense clouds but with decent battery life for the second set and let me know how low I can build with those batteries. Thanks p.s. would still love if someone can accurately answer the questions in my first post. thanks again.

edit please would like to know all this before Saturday since Monday is deadline possibly and since I'm going on vacation soon and want my order delivered before then. Thanks EDIt: this is interesting. https://www.reddit.com/r/electronic_cigarette/comments/4cflw4/reuleaux_rx200_internal_charging_testing_analysis/ Allegedly, the RX USB is "safe" but doesn't at all balance charge or discharge but what it does is while charging, it takes whichever battery reaches the max volts and then cuts them all off (and can cause a large discrepancy like .1V). It doesn't actually charge each cell separately (I think that's what the link says), but it treats them all as one - In other words, when one maxes out, they all stop charging. Same goes for discharging which is not balanced but is allegedly safe. The link says if one reaches max minimum volts, they all cut off. They say this all boils down to it still being safe but you will not get good battery life (between chargings for each day, not that the batteries shouldn't still last about 9 months or so). The only thing stopping me from ordering a DNA200 Reuleaux right this second is if I need to escribe dive to adjust settings for which type of batteries I use if I USB charge it which I do plan to do %100 of the time (I'm okay with tweaking that in escribe later if it will still work out-of-the-box but just that tweaking escribe will give better results, but not at the moment, I'm just too busy to learn escribe). And would also buy right this second if not for question 1) above, about possibly needing to still rotate batteries OFTEN, like once a charge or two. Once a week or so or if I forget here and there is preferred. I just don't want to wear out the battery wraps on the protruding safety rings. You have to be careful and lift into the spring loaded section is what I read but sometimes the batteries are hard to get a drip on to do that.

blah.. I'm having trouble deciding between Reuleaux RX200S with an external charger or a DNA200 and using only the onboard USB charging. I would like to omit an external charger which I'm %100 convinced on getting if I do get an RX. I've read too many warnings about RX USB charging. RX often either doesn't charge or possibly drain them balanced An email in a reddit or fasttech thread has the person from Reuleaux stating both RX and DNA do balance charging but I don't really believe it for the RX. I have read that if the three 18650s are too out of balance then the RX won't fire for safety, but have read at least a few times that users had fried their RX completely due to imbalance. I read it's safe to USB charge the DNA200. I know it will take longer than a fast external charger but I would charge overnight (next to my bed so worst case scenario is it does start a fire and would wake me right up and then I'd break through the wall into the bathroom and put it out with the shower hose). 1) Should I rotate the Reuleaux DNA200 batteries for added safety if I USB charge them, and if so how often? I read some things suggesting this. This can be a hassle because I know about the protruding rings on the DNA's battery terminals that are there to prevent people from putting batteries upside down but they're known to rip and tare at the batteries. The RX doesn't have this, the protection is built into the chip. I know a lot of people file the protrusions down but I don't want to mess with that nor open it up to fix the fire button hitting the screens ribbon wires because I think soon enough they'll make a better DNA/RX200 and I'll end up selling this one and don't want to sell it all altered looking. 2) I don't want to at all mess with escribe. I have read that if doing USB charging, I need to set battery type profiles in escribe to charge it correctly? There is no problem the 5 V from the USB is just converted to a higher voltage and a dedicated chip (I believe) controls the battery charging, monitoring and maintenance, but battery type needs to be set to the correctly type and IIRC the capacity in the EScribe software. I will not try and get any more technical than this as Evolv can provide the details, but I do think these devices will be less confusing to customers that the one you mention, after all most of the world are used to charging their phones like this. /topic/68479-topic/ 3) The most I want to do with software is update the firmware. If I update DNA200 to the latest version, will it give me TC stainless steel mode without having to jump through hoops in escribe? It used to be only done though escribe, possibly still is. 4) If the USB is all safe, can I actually passthrough and vape it while it's charging? 5) EDIT: I am much more leaning towards the DNA after writing all the above because I didn't know that Aug 8th on Monday is like the deadline and I might not really be able to get an updated Reuleaux DNA200 that can change out the battery cover to use it as 2 or 3 batteries like the new Reuleaux RX2/3. So I don't want to be stuck with some crap RX chip and migh tjust have to learn escribe if needed for any of the above. I'm also considering the HCigar VT133 since it's a DNA and holds just two batteries in case the Reuleaux DNA200 is too big the pocket at certain times. Thanks