[newby questions]

ChunkyButt200 said:

careful with charging mods in the car. sometimes those cheap gas station car usb adapters have a dirty output signal and the dna 200 doesn't like it. i had the same thing happen to me with my VS dna 200. however, the reason mine flashed the warranty service message was because the usb cable i had inside the car was damaged/shorted. use a new or different usb cable. throw out the one that gave you that error. ambient air temp will not cause the warranty service message. 

Just examined the USB cable and sure enough the end is kinked and feels like it's damaged. I did get this USB part for like $4.00 too so hopefully one or those 2 things is all it is. I already had to send 1 board in (not this one but the first MOD I built was either doa or I fried the fire button somehow). Anyways I appreciate all your help.

[newby questions]

Got another question. While vaping in my car with it plugged in because it's 100 degrees outside it said warranty service? Anyone ever seen that? It wouldn't fire until I unplugged it.

[newby questions]

What I'm concerned about is how long of 510 pins will it accept. Do you find that atomizers with long 510 pins won't sit flat?

[newby questions]

VapingBad said:

The Evolv is a lot shallower than the standard FDV or VT connector, the top is about 3 mm and the part the goes into the mod less than 8 mm.



Evolv 510
The thread is 1/2"-20 threads (1/2" National Fine Thread) and requires a 29/64 hole if you tap it, or a 1/2" hole,  Pin wrench 1 5/8", 4.2 1/6" mm 0.16" pins 2.36 mm inner

[newby questions]

VapingBad said:

Yes, the Evolv is larger and you can enlarge the hole and tap to the correct thread, the 4 holes in the top are really for a pin wrench although you could use them to bolt it down

The Evolv 510 is on the rhs
 

Is the evolv as deep or deeper then the standard fdv models. I have a new ceramic fdv and it's really shallow. My tugboat v2 doesn't sit flush on it and that's a pet peeve of mine. If it's not at least as deep as the standard fdv v4 or whatever the last version before the new ceramic ones was then I'd probably not even bother upgrading it.

[newby questions]

BillW50 said:

The fewer screws the better as a matter of fact.

[newby questions]

BillW50 said:

Yes I did. You want four screws, maybe more.

Lol I don't want anything. I was just trying to figure out if I can easily convert from a fdv to an evolv 510. I don't care how many screws it has or if it has any. I was just seeing what it would take to go from one 510 to another.

[newby questions]

BillW50 said:

Huh? It is a tiny board! What would make you happy? 50 damn screws?

Huh? I wasn't complaining about anything. Did you read the posts? I'm confused

[newby questions]

VapingBad said:

No they are different the Evolv connector is half inch 20 pitch (1/2" UNF in the UK) and IIRC the FDV is 10 mm 1 mm pitch (not 100% sure of the thread pitch of the FDV).

Correct me if I'm wrong but sounds like the mounting hole is about the same or slightly larger for the evolve. The evolve has the option of fastening it with the 4 screws. I'm thinking if I used a fdv for now to get up and running I shouldn't have to worry about a sloppy fit if I upgraded to the evolv. I would just have to bore it out a little possibly and then drill and tap the 4 mounting holes?

[newby questions]

retird said:

The fdv 510's are pretty good and I've used them over the years but the Evolv 510 IMO is the best I've ever used...  

Here is a link to an Evolv 510 so you can review it...has optional mounting hardware if you don't want to thread your enclosure...

http://www.protovapor.com/product/evolv-510-connector/

Do you know off hand if the hole size and threads are the same as the fdv? Wondering if I can install the fdv and still have the option to upgrade without replacing the whole enclosure.

[newby questions]

I'm working on my second DNA200 MOD and second boxmod period. The first one works but I'm new to temp control so I'm not sure how good it works. Only temp control coil I have is a .15 mini subtank coil which I believe is nickel. It always reads higher then that from .22 as high as like .35. Now I read that when things heat up the ohms change but I wonder if it's enhanced by the fdv v4 I used? I've read that the evolve is suppose to be a lot better for temp control devices. I already have a few different fdv 510's and would like to use them if I can. I want this build to be a quality MOD and if the evolve 510 is that much better then I'll hold off and order one I guess. If I use the fdv is there really any point in cutting threads to mount it in my alpinetech box? Doesn't seem like much material to tap there. I don't have a tap that size but again if it will make the box that much better I'll buy one. I just drilled the first one out so if fit pretty tight but I do notice it turns sometimes when removing an rda. I was thinking maybe a dab of epoxy would remedy that and probably wouldn't effect the connection. Last but not least I ordered xt30 connectors. I have always used deans connectors with lipo's in all of my rc land, water, and air vehicles but I thought I read someplace that xt30's are sufficient and are a lot smaller. Is that what most people use?

[good remote switch]

retird said:

I thought mamu's face plates were set up to use the on-board switches?  DNA's have a one year warranty.... and very good on-board switches... I've never had one go out...

Mamu has 2 options. One that uses all 3 on board buttons and one that has a remote button hole above the board. I think it's a 12mm hole but if I needed to I could always drill it out larger. I'm actually still waiting on my replacement board from evolv. The fire button was dead before I fired it up the first time.

[good remote switch]

Can someone recommend a quality switch to use in an alpinetech 1590b box with a mamu face plate probably? I'd like a decent sized ss clicky button that will last. I'd use the onboard button with an extender but I'm worried that it will wear out the onboard button rendering the board useless? I figure if I use a remote switch if it wears out I can just replace the switch. I hear the mitec 16mm switches are nice but I heard a lot of people saying they don't last? I see fdv makes a switch now but I can't find any reviews on it. Just want a nice switch that will last a long time.

[Firing button non-functional]

dwcraig1 said:

Your good on that I'd say.

I hope they send one with the new board because I don't have a spare.

[Firing button non-functional]

Chancej8 said:

Dwcraig sent me a response in a pm suggesting that I may have overheated the on board button when soldering on the 510. I checked it with a multimeter, and it looks like that's what happened. Best bet is to get the RMA. I pulled mine apart and am about to do the same. The bigger wires are kind of a pain to get the right amount of heat on I guess. Sucks that you haven't gotten a reply yet, Evolv has fantastic customer service from what I've seen. I didn't have the lock issue, you're having, and I'm still very new to all this. I know it isn't much but I hope it helps. I feel the pain, I can't wait to get one of these bad boys working. Good luck!

When you did your rma's did you remove everything from the board? Including the balance tap? It's a paita to remove 4 lead components so I left that on mine. I hope they normally send boards with those included. Also, how long did it take to get you board back?

[How to contact evolv?]

ChunkyButt200 said:

every time i opened a ticket with evolv their response has went to my spam folder. sometimes received the next day, sometimes a week. maybe just give it a check and see. i'm unaware of any phone number available to the public. give it a few more business days before giving up or opening another ticket, they're most likely busy. 

I received the computer generated one saying I would get a reply within 24-48 hours. I did check my spam folder once but I will double check now that you say yours went there. I'm just impatient and frustrated. I never thought it would take a week just to get authorization to send it back I guess. You have been very helpful though. I appreciate it.

[How to contact evolv?]

Does anybody know how to contact evolv other then emailing tickets? I've been waiting since 6:30am on Monday for a reply to my customer service for most likely an rmi. I've heard others mention they called but When I click on contact via the website it just goes straight to email?

[Firing button non-functional]

Chancej8 said:

Dwcraig sent me a response in a pm suggesting that I may have overheated the on board button when soldering on the 510. I checked it with a multimeter, and it looks like that's what happened. Best bet is to get the RMA. I pulled mine apart and am about to do the same. The bigger wires are kind of a pain to get the right amount of heat on I guess. Sucks that you haven't gotten a reply yet, Evolv has fantastic customer service from what I've seen. I didn't have the lock issue, you're having, and I'm still very new to all this. I know it isn't much but I hope it helps. I feel the pain, I can't wait to get one of these bad boys working. Good luck!

OK, thanks for the reply. I've done quite a bit of soldering with my other hobby rc trucks boats and heli's but I was having some issues with my iron when I did those first couple power wires. My tip was kind of a mess. I did clean it up good and retinned it after those. I was still being careful not to hold it on for very long but it was longer then I'd have liked. If they burn up that easy I'm tempted to go buy some heat sinks and maybe even to new tip just to avoid and chance of that happening if it is what happened. I still have my doubts. How exactly did you test it? What settings did you use on your multi-miter? I was poking around with mine and was getting some resistance in the legs of it just like the other 2 buttons. If it was the onboard fire button wouldn't the remote button still work or does that somehow run through the button?

[Firing button non-functional]

I just finished a MOD on Sunday with the exact same issue. Everything is fine while connected to escribe using the onscreen sim buttons. Also when it's plugged in the up downs work but no fire button at all. I also tried an external fire button thinking maybe the onboard clicky button was bad but that doesn't work either. I did support ticket at like 6:30am on Monday but still haven't gotten a reply from evolve. I've checked over my solder joints with a joulers loupe and resoldered any that weren't perfect. There is a little tiny black circuite or something right next to where you solder the external fire button on. It's so small I couldn't really see it without the loupe but that looks like it might be broke or burnt? That's the only thing I that looks like it could be a problem but it's so small I'm not even sure. There's several of those tiny black things but this one looks different. Part of it is white I think. Anyways I have a question for you. When you plug it into escribe does it default to locked mode? I always have to click the sim fire button 5 times to unlock. I was just curious if this is normal behavior. Hope I finally hear back from evolv tomorrow so I can get this taken care of. Was planning on having my new MOD on fathers day but that didn't happen and now tomorrow will be 4 days of checking my phone for that email everytime I feel it buzz in my pocket.

[Board won't stay powered on]

Jvape78 said:

When that happened to me it was 2 things. First I didn't have a great connection on my sled. My first time soldering and the work was rough. Once I redid that it was still doing the flash so I tore it down and inspected every single connection. Come to find out one of the pins on the balance tap that solders to the board had broken connection at the board joint. Once that was re soldered it worked great. Good luck.

All my pins are there and I "think" all my connections are good and correct. I've done lots of soldering although my iron tip was a mess at first so I had to hold it on some of the connections longer then I would have liked. Mine doesn't flash anymore after updating the software. Everything works fine accept the fire button when it's plugged in. Everytime I plug it in the screen is locked at first though. If I use the button simulator on my computer I can unlock it by pressing fire 5 times and then it seems to work "with onscreen buttons" but fire on the board still does nothing. I don't have it in a box or the 510 put together so I can't actually fire an atty with the onscreen buttons if that's even possible. Thanks for your reply though. I appreciate any suggestions at this point. I opened a ticket with evolv early this morning but haven't heard back yet.

[Board won't stay powered on]

VapingBad said:

At the bottom it has a text label "Buttons:" and it will have "fire" after that if it is getting the fire button signal.  It is a long shot, but worth checking.

Probably won't be till after work tonight but I will look. The thing that's really strange to me is that before flashing it when I pressed the fire button DNA200 showed up on the screen for a second but after flashing it nothing.

[Board won't stay powered on]

VapingBad said:

When connected to EScribe in Device Monitor does it show any buttons as pressed (at the bottom of the window), just thinking it could be something on the board shorting the button though that would also unlock it.

I remember the first time I put it in monitor mode I think the fire button stayed on when I pressed the virtual button. I will check when I get a chance though. Do you mean just see if the button is lit up? Thanks by the way for reading this and trying to help. Both of you. This is so frustrating

[Board won't stay powered on]

ChunkyButt200 said:

does it connect to escribe? if you unplug the battery completely (balance tap and mains) from the board and connect to escribe can you reflash the firmware, then reconnect your battery and see if it stays connected to escribe. just make sure you press 'upload settings' after changing any values or fields in escribe. here's the correct wiring for 2S. as for the fire button not working if the just the fire button is truly bad, the pads for an external fire button should still work. you could always open a help ticket with evolv from their website for an RMA. 

Yes it connects to escribe and seems to work fine if I use the buttons on my computer in monitor button simulation mode but I have to unlock it everytime with 5 clicks? Is that typical for the DNA? I thought it just said to press the fire button once to turn on?

[Board won't stay powered on]

ChunkyButt200 said:

since you're running the dna in dual 18650 mode, do you have "2 cell" selected in escribe under "manufacturer settings" and uploaded into your mod? are you 100% certain you have the battery wiring correct? specifically the balance balance taps. try re-flashing the firmware. make sure it's a recommended FW version.
 

Just noticed the flashing part. How do I do that just upgrade software? How do I choose the version or know if it's a "FW?" Version?

[Board won't stay powered on]

scottkoblitz said:

Got it set to 2 cell lipo cap 16.8wh soft cutoff 3.2v. Left everything else alone I think. Accept changed kanthol limit to 130.

Any help is greatly appreciated. I'm banging my head with this after spending a day and a half building it and now I can't get it to work no matter what I do?