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dsidab81

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Posts posted by dsidab81

  1. I've rewired a Fullymax 3S 900mah, into a 3p...probably the smallest package I could come across with 3 in parallel.  Their pack assembly actually made it fairly easy to breakdown and rewire - no circuit board at all, but I would advise using some adhesive solvent and a thin piece of wire to separate each cell to flip it for proper orientation.


  2. The case analyzer will help with this.  Each chassis has different thermal properties, the only way to get this thermal offset is with case analyzer.

    it's kind of shocking that these large mod makers aren't customizing this prior to sale.

  3. I see one mention of refinement on the DNA200 spec sheet in the resistance lock session, and various mentions of the term on ECF and here.
    When exactly does it take place - during run time, soft / hard reboot, while powered off?
    What exactly is refinement? - I know this sounds like a dumb question

    I'm not really seeing much fluctuation in resistance, maybe a .14 build I will see change over the course of the day to .15.  I'm guessing this is just a rounding of the thousandths digit.


  4. Any of the modders here have experience with these?
    http://www.electronicstix.com/products/z2-2-510-connector-obsidian-zenkote

    Obviously it requires a screwdriver for adjustment, but I'm curious if it would be a bit more solid connection than a Varitube 510.  I'm thinking my spring is compressing a bit, and without buying 20 wave springs....not sure where else to go.

    If only we could get Evolv's 510 :)

  5. I've not taken my 200 past 60 watts yet, stay in the 20-30 range.  Mainly build for flavor, but it's nice to know my mod has much more headroom if I choose to use it.  Using a 3d print copy of the reference case with the fullymax 900mah battery, I'm easily getting two days out of use.  I've also got a mod that's extremely pocketable, with a great chipset behind it.   I can't say that about the 100's of budget mod's flooding in from China..

    Not saying a 1S variant is useless, but maybe I only use my 3s like a 1s :)


  6. fuse data sheet from mouser:  http://www.mouser.com/ds/2/358/typ_UST_1206-245456.pdf

    3413.0332.22 is the pn listed in the DNA 200 data sheet -the final .22 is ordering in 1000pc blister reel.
    The .0332 would be the 25a variant, this fuse package is sold in 7a through 25a types - with these 4 digits varying by rating

    Just to confirm, searching http://www.schurter.ch/ by pn 3413.0332.22 returns the same UST 1206 print that is referenced in the mouser link.
    ( http://www.schurter.ch/content/search?SearchText=3413.0332.22&tab=section-2&filter[]=attr_subcategory_facet:Data&filter[]=language_code:ger-DE )

    I'd say your good to go :)

  7. I agree xevape, heating the whole pca isn't ideal.   That removal alloy stays fluid for 6 seconds or so, so it theory I could rotate heating all four contacts with an iron and remove by suction on top.
    With a lower melting point, it could allow you to use less heat/application time and hopefully doing this would eliminate the chance of melting a pad free...

    Simply posting this as an alternative, not trying to take anything from your approach!
    Great looking mods by the way.

    Are you pca's adhered to the chassis by the tactile buttons?  Is this why you are testing applied pressure?

  8. The orange buttons are already showing signs of color rub from the black. I may eventually paint them.   You may notice I mounted my +/- backwards...luckily escribe has the ability to swap function!

    The same creator on shapeways lists only the chassis without buttons and buttons as a 3 piece for a few bucks.

    I am liking the form factor in hand, but it just feels very light coming from using an aluminum mod before.

  9. Finally have left my enclosure closed for a couple days, this 3d print copy of the reference case has very little room for error in depth.  The side walls of the back chassis snugly hold this fullymax 900, so it isn't likely to be jostled....although i'm not sure of the shock absorption rate of abs.
    Many attempts at filing down the +/- buttons to not actuate when the back was screwed down.   I ended up tossing out my xt30 connector and soldering the fullymax directly to the board.  JST connector is still used for the taps.
    Considering 3d print plastic likely will not take well to repeated screw fittings, I don't plan on battery swaps!!
    Once someone gets the aluminum reference boxes up, I'm jumping in line to purchase.

    Definitely not as refined as several that have been posted, but my first foray into a mod this small....

    case: https://www.shapeways.com/product/6524725AS/evolv-dna200-case-with-buttons?li=search-results-1&optionId=57294605
    dna200_or_bl_900mah.jpg 

  10. Evolv clearly stated in the 200 datasheet wire Gauge usage and peak current... Modders should be able to find appropriately rated power connectors or solder the battery to the board. The screw posts are also clearly labeled as ground plane, so a modder assembling with a conductive fitting that overlaps onto a solder plane or via is just sloppy in my opinion.

  11. Have you set your mod resistance? Using an atomizer with a copper short between neg and pos, you should be able to go into Atomizer Analyzer and it will give a reading of your mods resistance.   Power mode will compensate for whatever internal resistance (short answer), but temp control at such a low resistance can be thrown off when your mods resistance is 0.005...or whatever it is.
    My 0.005 was generated from an old ego to 510 adapter that i've solder shorted.

    After typing this into mod resistance, device monitor will now show a different cold resistance than live resistance (with a kanthal coil attached).

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