Aikhme

What should I set the lipo battery cut off at? It's currently set to 3.09v. Should it be higher or 3.0v?

yeh I uploaded to device. I think when you click ok, it enters the Wh figure automatically which in my case is 9.99. Then of course you upload it which is what I do. I've heard some people are using 10.22Wh. Should I change the 9.99 I have to 10.22? I recently sent in my DNA 200 for repair (Chip) and they changed the battery to a new one, but I don't believe I am getting as much battery life with this new battery which is disappointing.

Hi, I am trying to get the battery meter working wproperyt. My settings are as follows: Maximum Puffs Lithium Polymer Capacity: 9.99Wh (3 Cell) Cell Soft Cut Off 3.09V BUT when I click the WATT HOUR Calculator I get the following: Battery Cell Capacity : 720Mah Nominal Pack Voltage: 11.1V Now, as I understand it, the Battery Cell Capacity is actually 900Mah. But it won't let me change it and keeps reverting to 720Mah. How can I fix this?

Yeh i guess I will persevere. But how long until the next fuse goes again? It seems to be a regular occurrence with the average fuse lifespan being about a month or less.

Not having too much luck with the Vaporshark DNA200. I bought mine in July and in early August it stopped working with the OHMS TOO HIGH ERROR and was overheating. So contacted VS and sent it in, and they changed the board. Got it back about 2 weeks ago. Today, as I was vaping, the VS DNA 200 just out of the blue stopped working again. The blue fire button is turning on when pressed but the LED is completely blank and of course it will not fire the device. Has anyone experienced that issue. Feeling a little frustrated about the DNA200 chip now. It seriously isn't worth this amount of hassle. I have sent Vaporshark an email and see what happens, but I am seriously thinking about not even bothering to send it in and cutting my losses with the DNA Chip and go to mechanicals. So in effect, I have had this device for less than 2 months and it has stopped working twice already and even within 2 weeks of coming back from repair. There is something wrong with this chip.

Yes I already have a Vaporflask DNA 133, but my favorite is definitely the Vaporshark DNA 200. I love the form factor. Not that I don't like my Flask because I love that too. Was thinking about getting a Vaporshark DNA 133. But its starting to get ridiculous. I do prefer the LiPo batteries though because there is no battery sag. I reckon it is only a matter of time before these liPo come with better capacity in a smaller package.

I have a Vaporshark DNA200 device with a 3s LiPo 900 mah battery. Device works fine. Only drawback is battery life. I am dripping more and more now and have pretty high power settings, so I am lucky to get 4 to 5 hoiurs use from a fully charged battery. So I was just wondering. I am pretty sure there are other battery options in a hobby store which are within spec but can just hold that bit extra mah. Have others gone to a hobby store and swapped out the LiPo battery in their device? If so, what mah battery have you been able to fit in the compartment? I'm hoping there is a 1500 mah LiPo I can get into the device but that might be over ambitious.

Yes it does. Very helpful. Yes I am getting some very loud sputter. At the time I didn't think much of it as I have only just started to build my own coils and drip. As such, I just thought it was normal as I did not know better.

Thank you Jentz. I also note your further post depicting exactly where these files are. SA316L is very unstable to say the least. But my preferred vendor in Australia is only stocking SS316L. Must ask him about SS430. Heard many good things about it. Can you tell me what the issue is with UD SS316L? Are there alloy QC issues with it?

OK so far, I have only had been using pre-made Ni200 coils and they work great in TC. Very steep resistance change and accurate TC. I have just started building my own SS316L coils in a RDA and I must say that I am enjoying dripping a lot more. A warmer, denser and flavorsome vape overall. However, I have had no success in temperature control. I have normal 24G SS316L and UD Fused SS316L Clapton wire. The clapton wire takes a while to warm up. Most of the time the device does not do TC at all, and others it does but with a temperature limit of 500F it really only gets to to about 400F after 2 or 3 seconds so TC is inconsequential really. Does anyone have a csv TCR for SS316L Fused Clapton? The Steamship website is confusing when you select Clapton in the drop down menu. Anyone achieving any success with S316L or should I try a different wire like Titanium? My builds with SS316 Clapton are very low resistance. About 0.11ohms with 5 wraps.

OK thanks guys. I will switch to SP3 before uploading my SS316L csv TCR.

OK sounds good. Will the EARLY version also let me upload my currently saved settings and customisations?

OK cheers VapingBad. I saw that there was an early version or pre-release version of Escribe. I didn't want to download it because I was going to wait for the officially released verion. Do you recommend I download the EARLY version? Will it make things easier? Have the bugs and issues been ironed out?

I'm not sure I have SP3. I have the latest official firmware which came out in Feb16. Is that what you mean?

Oh that makes sense now. Yes I do have 2 Ni200 profiles on the device - which explains the duplicate materials. Yes I would have run into this and I never would have been able to work that out. So basically, I need to change the material in one of my profiles to SS316L. Well I have a profile that just so happens to be called S316L so I will do it to that profile. Then go into MATERIALS tab and add SS316L TCR from steamship.