lexalove
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Posts posted by lexalove
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mikepetro said:
Love the Lego Atty holder!
Oh, and nice Mod too!
+1 on the atty holder... getting a Lego kit tomorrow!!!
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Toss-up between Nickel and Stainless... I would be glad I got the Stainless!
Pleased you solved the mystery because someone gave me a reel of that same wire a few months back and I think I dumped it I got so frustrated trying to get it to work with the TFR from steam-engine. Now I find out it was stainless it all makes sense. -
Excluding a damaged board I think it's almost impossible to "brick" a DNA 200D.... Many have purposely tried and failed to do it.
I would suggest installing eScribe on a native Windows computer and see if it will actually detect that you've connected a USB device. From there you should be able to flash the new firmware. -
Unfortunately the board is toast!
Obviously I don't have the schematics for the board but I would guess the crappy adapter has taken out some of the analog balance charging/monitoring circuit.
So I'll be ordering a replacement board when I get back. On the upside, I potentially have another spare screen! -
I work away a lot on business and I have one of those multi-plug adapters for plugging UK devices into foreign sockets, it also has a USB output socket for charging devices such as phones etc.
So I was working over in Germany for a couple of weeks and day 2 I got back to the hotel after a stressfull day and my mod was running low. I could have just swapped out the batteries (it's a 2s 18650 mod) but since I was going straight to bed and tired I thought I'll just plug it into the USB charger from the aforementioned multi-plug adapter.
Next morning I woke up, picked up the mod and unplugged the USB cable for a morning vape. Clicked the button expecting to see a nice full battery bar... instead what I got was the screen light up for a second with what appeared to be lines running across it, then nothing.
So I clicked again, same thing. F*CK I said. So I grabbed two charged batteries I had in my bag, put them in... still nothing but a short "jinky" looking flash of the welcome screen for a second or so.
Plugged into eScribe and checked the pack volts in Device Monitor and it showed...
Pack = 5.26V
Cell 1 = 0.00V
Cell 2 = 5.26V
Cell 3 = 1.23V
S*IT!!!
Anyway I stripped the mod next day (after I stopped crying) and all the wiring is intact so looks like the, most likely poorly filtered and regulated, USB output from the cheap multi-plug adapter has damaged the board somehow
GUTTED!
Just thought I would warn you guys so it doesn't happen to you. -
Great post Mamu.
I used the same protection circuit when I used to build Raptor mods... never thought of using it in a 2s DNA mod
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Many Thanks
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I would say you are not doing anything wrong, the problem is the csv file you are trying to load.
I don't know who or what SSV are but the TFR relates only to the material and not the size of the coil. Try downloading the csv for Ti from http://www.steam-engine.org/wirewiz.asp and see if that solves your issue. -
skineedog said:
Implementation of an option to charge at 2 amps instead of 1? Seems like it should be possible with firmware? 1 amp is pretty fast but faster is better, right?
If you commit to buying 500,000 DNA 200 boards they may sort you out
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Props to you Robert for coming on here, fronting up and trying to help the fella out.
In general is it better to return defective products to the vendor or manufacturer?
Just thinking about folk like myself who don't live in the US or live in a different country to the manufacturer. -
Sounds like a bad battery cell or balance wiring issue. Either way it sounds like unfortunately you got a ''bad-un''.
Send it back to the vendor for an exchange unit. -
Margucci said:
In my opinion nothing would be simpler than setting a material for the coil and then power and temperature. It's what other mids are doing. Take the evic vt or vtc mini for example. You choose power, nickel, or titanium mode. You then choose power and lastly your temperature. Nothing can be simpler than that. On the 200 you would just set the material profile just as you did on the evic followed by the rest. At this point that procedure is very common and a lot of people would be used to it from lower power mods. If you want to make the chip as easy as possible to use you need to assume that people do not use the software at all. In this situation the 200 is limited to just nickel and power mode. There are many other mods which support titanium and stainless right out of the box. It would be much more attractive for potential buyers to have these options available on the device itslef. This would also be solved with a switch to profiles being material only. The mod manufacturers could load on additional material profiles in the existing 8 spaces so that vapers who do not want to use the software are ready to go. Of course all of this is still able to be customized on your computer just as it is now.
Maybe ask Evolv to ship DNA's with 3 profiles already configured.. Kanthal (Power), Ni200 and Ti. Then at least the user who doesn't want the complexity of having to use escribe will be able to use TC straight out the box with the material of their choice.
I think it's not feasible to do Stainless profiles due to the variations in material being sold.
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Personally I like the fact that power and temp can be set per profile so you can configure profiles for a specific atomizer. You can use the profiles in the manner you suggest quite easily without any firmware changes.
Removing these settings would make the system less flexible, why would you want to do that?
I do agree, and it's my biggest issue with the DNA, in TC mode you should be able to directly adjust your temp with power adjust behind the lock and visa-versa when in Power mode. -
eagleswind2 said:
Im getting ready to wire up my first DNA 40 chip. Before I do does it matter which 2 prongs out of the 4 I use on the C&K tactile switch for the power up and down? Also does it matter which one is used for the positive side and the negative side?
Regarding the tactile switch it does matter which of the 'prongs' you connect to.
In my little sketch of the push button switch you can see that there are two prongs on each side of the switch contacts so you'll need a continuity tester to make sure you don't connect to two prongs in the same pair else your mod will act like the switch is pressed all the time.
It makes no difference which is used as the +ve side or -ve side.
Hope that helps.
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Dog said:
where can I get a new screen?
Open a ticket with Evolv. I recently got two direct from them after experiencing the exact same problem.
They were really quick too, great CS
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Droopydroors said:
Here is another possibility. Ive noticed if in escribe I have a profile set to 420f. Then when using the device I bump up the degrees to 480, through the mod ,when I switch batteries (hard reset) the temperature goes back to the 420 that was last set in escribe. So is it possible that when the device sleeps and gets woken up it reverts back to the stored temp of 420 even though the screen is showing the temp you bumped up to? Just another guess.
Once you've adjusted the temp setting on the mod double click power up/down (power must be locked) until the profile name/custom screen is displayed then press fire button to store the new settings to the profile. Then it won't revert to previous settings on battery change. -
HybridFGSI said:
no, dont have it locked at all. I am starting to think my build may be off somehow.
Or an atty with poor conductivity somewhere? when you're experiencing poor vape quality is the atty getting really hot?
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My pleasure mate.
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Templar said:
Troll RDA, 12 wraps at 3mm. I applied juice directly to the coil, then made sure the cotton was saturated.
I exclusively use .5mm Ti and .32 SS.
12 wraps on a 3mm mandrel seems way too much. I'm guessing you're making micro coils not spaced else you wont fit it in the atty!
If you're doing micro's try 4 wraps spaced instead, I think you'll get much better results.
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HybridFGSI said:
Hello, I just got in to temp builds, I have built a dual 24g titanium 8 wraps on a kennedy rda, when I put the rda on the device I get .12ohms and have it set to 90 watts, 400 degree's, the flavor is great and so is vapor production, then I let the device go to sleep, wake it up, all readings show the same but I am getting next to no vapor and next to no flavor, I ran the atomizer analyzer and am showing the same reading after wake up (within a few .xx3) but the vape quality changes massively, can someone help point me in the right direction as to what I am doing wrong?
Do you have the ohms lock on?
I had a similar issue a while back. I somehow locked in the wrong 'cold resistance' so when I left the atty it fell below the locked in resistance and I got poor vapour output until the coil warmed up.
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VapingBad said:
I had a go at a flowchart
E: corrected a <= to <
Hey VB.. you spying on me through my web cam??
I was working on the exact same thing last week while trying to explain to a friend of mine how the DNA works.
I must admit yours is much better laid out than my first effort, great job mate
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Bobby said:
I also see the "temperature protected' message more as information (that the temperature is regulated), than as an error message.
In my opinion the biggest advantage of TC is not Dry-hit/high-temp prevention while trying to get the biggest clouds but hitting the sweetspot of evaporation for the duration of the puff (and thus getting the best flavor out of the juice).
I made the simplified picture below explaining this benefit on a Dutch forumboard some time ago.![[30hsh9h]](http://i58.tinypic.com/30hsh9h.jpg)
Off course, this is my opinion. Everybody can use the settings he/she likes best.
I think your diagram illustrates the benefits of temperature controlled (limited) vaping perfectly.
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Manny4pacman said:
I would like to see an appart screen for no liquid Tbh
Just cause temp prot message is stil not means your wick is dryI don't see the point of a ''dry wick'' message. Surely you know when your wick is dry because you'll get no flavour /vapor? When I'm using one of my dripper that's how I know when I have to drip. -
I tested this on one of my DNA mods running the latest beta firmware and Escribe and the bug seems to be fixed because I can't replicate what you're describing.
Go to this link and download /install the latest Escribe, I think it will fix your problem
https://forum.evolvapor.com/topic/66731-topic/
Opening post has latest Escribe at the top. After installation when you connect your device it will do an automatic firmware update to the required version.
Early Firmware and EScribe Suite Discussion Thread
in EScribe, Software and Firmware
Posted
In a previous post on this thread it was stated that Evolv are working on a firmware upgrade that has some significant UI changes one of which allows temperature adjustment from the main screen without the need for the play station "special move" button press sequence!
The delay in release is due to them moving premisses at the moment. I think the move is complete now so I'm sure they will release it soon when they are confident they have tested it thoroughly.